2000 260 Sundancer: Out of the water inspection.

W

WardenJ

Member
Joined
Mar 28, 2002
RO Number
8011
Messages
10
Hello,

Next week I will be attending a haul-out and mechanical inspection of a 2000 260 Sundancer (7.4L Bravo III)on behalf of a potential buyer. My primary areas of interest are the raw water engine cooling system and the corrosion protection system for the outdrive. I've only seen pictures of the boat in the water, but I do know it runs and cruises well.

Are there any other specific items I should look for in this model while its out of the water? Any other "good to know" things about a 260 Sundancer? Any tips and input are greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 
On the Bravo III, look for corrosion around the propshaft carrier bearing, I would remove the props and check the carrier bearing iteself. Other areas of corrosion would be obvious on visual inspection, but typical the BIII corrosion showed up on around the carrier bearing (ie base of propellers), the anti cavitation plate above the propellers and the drive cap. Other things to check on the drive are the bellows and insure the bonding wires between the transome assybmly, drive and trim rams are all connected. The Mercathode system should also be tested, but that should be done in the water.

Good luck.
 
"The Mercathode system should also be tested, but that should be done in the water."

How do you test that system? (for my own use. I"ve never known how to test mine)
 
I would have the drive pulled and have the coupler inspected. If not properly maintained - it is an expensive fix. The boat is a great boat. I owned the same year and engine/outdrive combo for 4.5 years/300 hours. No real issues with the boat, just inspect the drive for corrosion as listed above. I had a battery charger fail at one point. But it really is a good boat.
 
Thanks for the input. Word is the coupler was replaced in June, along with manifolds and risers, and the raw water circ pump.
 
Thanks Bill.....Do you think this is somethig that would more require testing if in Salt Water as opposed to fresh?
 
You should be able to trim the drive and get some sort of indication of whether the drive has any significant corrosion.
 
Tanq -- hard to say, my BIII's were in fresh water, had aluminum zincs (before Mercruiser started recommending magesium for frewshwater). Two years and my drives were a mess. They determined two problems, 1) mercathodes were not working properly and replaced them 2) switched me to magnesium anodes. Six months later they finally approved replacing the drives. I should note that after I got the mercathodes working and put on magesium anodes on the old correoded drives, the corrosion basically came to a halt. I never had any problem with the new drives, they stayed in fresh water year around, when I sold the boat 3 years later they still looked great. If you are seeing any corrosion, I would test it, also, you need to be changing anodes on a BIII at least two times/yr (salt or fresh) if in water year around.
 
Saltwater = aluminum
Freshwater = magnesium
 
quote:
Originally posted by WardenJ

What type of anode material are they recommending for salt?

Click to expand...


Performance metals dot com has a great explanation. Boat Fix carries them at the best prices I have found so far.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top