2000 Aqusport electrical power problem

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Kevdon22

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Joined
Apr 16, 2012
RO Number
32964
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I have lost 12 volt power on a portion of my electrical panel behind the helm that powers running lights the manual bilge pump, the bilge blower, and every thing but the engine and its instruments.Can't find a fuse behind the helm to the the main power and ground. The engine starter works and the engine runs great.
I am suspicious about either the Battery selector switch or the box that powers the panel at the helm (which has a circuit breaker that does nothing when pushed) which are located above the batteries at the stern.

Since the battery selector switch works OK for the engine power, are there separate contacts for other power supply. I notice that the switch has often very hard to turn between battery positions. If there is only one contact, I find it difficult to believe that is the problem.If a second contact, it could be the problem

The circuit breaker box at the stern has 3 small fuses in addition to the red circuit breaker, I don't know what they protect?

Any comments appreciated?
Any source for a wiring diagram for 2000 21 foot Aquasport Explorer?
Wiring is a rats nest difficult to trouble shoot no voltage measured across main feed terminals at the back of the helm.
 
Boat wiring should be fused within ~~8"(?) or so of the power source (either battery or main battery switch ) except for the starter circuit. This is to protect the wiring not the load. That doesn't mean your boat is necessarily wired that way.
No separate contacts for house loads inside the battery switch unless your switch is wired backwards with a single battery + connected to Common and engine and loads to 1 & 2.

But you could check the connections on the back of the switch if the loads you list are switched there. Terminals "1" & "2" should be connected to the battery positives and Common terminal "C" to the loads and there are usually several load wires with ring terminals connected there. Perhaps one has corroded off?

Have the missing circuits worked since connections were last made at the batteries. If not , look for a wire(s?) left off the battery terminals or corrosion on connectors there. Is the black negative jumper cable properly connected between all batteries negative terminals ?

Check the fuses at the stern and press the breaker - can't hurt. Remember fuses can be perfectly good but holder contacts bad, as is often the case..
I'd think your boat would be outboard powered so maybe those fuses are for trim tilt but those are usually under the hood. Maybe for bilge pumps or washdown?

Don't neglect to check continuity of the ground side of your load circuits too.

Use your multimeter or 12 v test light or buzzer to identify where power in those particular circuits is and is not to narrow the suspect areas. I'd start at either the batteries or the positive and negative bus strips in the console
 
Thanks for your reply Sandy. Here is simplified wire diagram below
http://theaquasportboatclub.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=700&view=print

Other information I have indicaes that there is a breaker/Isolator which may be the case since I have an electrical box connected to the battery switch which is approximately 6x6 inches, has 3 fuses in it and a red button which does nothing when I push, it is located beside the battery selector switch selecting between 2 batteries with all, 1, 2, and off. I have checked all the fuses I can find with no problem

I have found the battery switch to be very stiff sometimes. Since the engine runs I am wondering if there are separate contacts for the helm switches, the engine gauges all work.

Tanks for the advice I will follow up on the additional items you suggest.
 
I spoke to Steve at Perko. He was very helpful and eliminate the battery switch as the source of my problem.
Steve said the line off the battery switch to the circuit Breaker/isolator is the same contact as the one that goes to the engine.
So if the engine starts and rums, the juice should be available to the Breaker/Isolator box.

I am suspicious about the 40 A circuit breaker which apparently can be replaced although access is poor. I cannot see the name of the mfg, it also has 3 fuses to feed the bilge pump, stereo, and another item which I cannot read.

Thanks for comments
 
Sandy,
Thanks for comments.
I had my mechanic visit yesterday and he found that the plug was corroded coming out of the circuit breaker/isolator and he rewired it, I think with no plug and the power is back to to the system.
I was suspicious about the connection but due to the location I was really unable to do anything with it myself since it is in the small battery access well and tough to get at.
 
That's great you got it squared away.
Now the rest of the season will be trouble-free!
 
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