My boat has a 30A cord directly wired into its electric panel (ie; no plug on the side of the boat). The cord itself needs replaced. I was thinking of cutting off the old cord (leaving a few feet) and attaching a new plug and then getting a new cord to run from the shore power to the plug. Question before I get knee deep: what is the wiring hook up for the new plug - what goes where?
30A Electric Plug
- Thread starter Golfman25
- Start date
- Joined
- Sep 16, 2003
- RO Number
- 12212
- Messages
- 12,216
Personally I d leave it the way it is, replacing the whole cord to the panel.
Having the cord hard wired to the panel, or to a terminal block/breaker, is a much better set up than those fire starting receptacles IF THE CORD IS IN A PLACE WHERE IT CAN BE STORED.
Ex... Your Cord exits in a locker big enough to store the cord when not in used. Years ago I had a 37 maxum where the 50amp inlet and breaker was in a transom locker that was big enough to stow the cord. It was perfect, I never had to disconnect the cord and having the inlet was useless. On my hatt. I never disconnect it either as the inlet is amidship on the side deck and I run the cord either to the stern or bow and store it coiled there.
And, on boats with glendining cable masters, the end of the cord is hard wired to a terminal block or breaker.
As a reminder if the electrical panel is more than 8' from the inlet, you need a breaker at the entry point.
Having the cord hard wired to the panel, or to a terminal block/breaker, is a much better set up than those fire starting receptacles IF THE CORD IS IN A PLACE WHERE IT CAN BE STORED.
Ex... Your Cord exits in a locker big enough to store the cord when not in used. Years ago I had a 37 maxum where the 50amp inlet and breaker was in a transom locker that was big enough to stow the cord. It was perfect, I never had to disconnect the cord and having the inlet was useless. On my hatt. I never disconnect it either as the inlet is amidship on the side deck and I run the cord either to the stern or bow and store it coiled there.
And, on boats with glendining cable masters, the end of the cord is hard wired to a terminal block or breaker.
As a reminder if the electrical panel is more than 8' from the inlet, you need a breaker at the entry point.
That's what I would do but if you have to ask how to wire it or where the wires go, it's best left to a marine electrician. Electricity can be dangerous and it's imperative that anything like this be done correctly. That would include running the proper size and type of cable from the inlet to the panel and installing circuit protection if required by ABYC standards.
A permanently installed shore power cable has two main disadvantages:
1) It is easily tangled and stressed, especially if one begins coiling it from the loose end.
2) If it fails, it cannot easily be replaced like a standard cable. It requires opening the panel and removing and replacing electrical connections, something best left to the pros or at least advanced amateurs.
If the OP's boat was set up like most boats, he wouldn't have had to post here, he would have gone to his favorite marine retailer and purchased a replacement cable. He could also carry two different lengths so he could choose the shortest one that works for each docking situation.
He would be back in operation already.
Pascal, the cord coils up into a small box under the helm seat. The only reason I would change it (other than the current cord has lost its luster) is that I take many short trips and I don't enjoy coiling the cord up everytime. Most people have set their cords up "fixed" to the dock and simply unplug and go.
Greg, I have thought about a receptical for three + years. It would just be too much work given all the other projects I haven't gotten to and limited time. Shortening the cord and replacing the plug would effectively do the same thing, without the hardware of a receptical. Also, I can keep the connection out of the elements.
Greg, I have thought about a receptical for three + years. It would just be too much work given all the other projects I haven't gotten to and limited time. Shortening the cord and replacing the plug would effectively do the same thing, without the hardware of a receptical. Also, I can keep the connection out of the elements.
I'm going to guess that a replacement male cord cap (plug) will have the connections color coded or at least green for the green wire in the cord, copper colored for the black wire, and silver colored for the white wire.
You can buy one and see if I'm right. If I am, it's simply a matter of properly cutting and stripping the old cord and putting the wires on the right terminals. Do not think about tinning or soldering them, twist the strands together, insert them, and tighten the screw.
- Joined
- Sep 16, 2003
- RO Number
- 12212
- Messages
- 12,216
I ve never felt leaving cords on the dock, exposed to rain, is a great idea. You re going to have to coil it there anyway, what difference does it make that you coil on the dock or on the boat? Maybe a few more feet depending on distances from boat to pedestal but a 30' cord is easy to handle.
And all it takes is one idiot to kick the cord in the water to ruin your day ...
Half the people who set their cords fixed on the dockside don't bother turning off the breaker either...
And all it takes is one idiot to kick the cord in the water to ruin your day ...
Half the people who set their cords fixed on the dockside don't bother turning off the breaker either...
When I played music, I also set up much of the equipment and I once had a guy chide me for leaving the power cords coiled when in use. He claimed that the inductance would act like a transformer and overheat the cord.
I suspect this was an attempt to put theory into practice without understanding it first.
BTW: I made clips from two hole plastic conduit straps to restrain my shore power cord at my marina. It's on the edge but out of the water and nobody can trip over it or kick it into the water.
I suspect this was an attempt to put theory into practice without understanding it first.
BTW: I made clips from two hole plastic conduit straps to restrain my shore power cord at my marina. It's on the edge but out of the water and nobody can trip over it or kick it into the water.
I think a lot depends on how big your boat is, how much you use the electric, and where you go with the boat when you leave your home dock.
If you aren't comfortable doing the electric work than you are probably better off not messing with it and just keeping your current set up.
If you are going with the receptacle then I would have two cords if possible. Set one permanently at your dock somehow where it isn't too much in the way, and keep the other stowed safely aboard for when you wind up someplace else that has electric.
Coiling up the electric cord and putting it on the boat where it might be in the way very time you want to take the boat out can be a pain. having an electric cord laying on your home dock where it might be a tripping hazard, or be submerged isn't a good idea either.
I don't leave my boat plugged in very much when I'm not there. I really don't have any reason too, other than maybe keeping a couple of bottles of something cold in the fridge, and I have made other provisions for that with a small dockside fridge secured in a shed. So I have my cord set up for my boat on my dock in case I plug in while we're hanging out, and I just disconnect and hang it out of the way when I leave, or pull away from the dock. I usually take the extra second or two to shut off the breaker to the dockside outlet too so that I don't have a live cord hanging around.
In the rare instance that I wind up somewhere else that has electric on the dock, I use the cord that I keep on the boat. Then again, I was lucky enough to have someone give me a cord that is in great shape after they sold their boat and didn't need it anymore. Most of my destinations are out to waterfront restaurants, or to spend some time out on the hook somewhere. Neither of those destinations have electric available as an option for me. The one place I have been spending some time docked at once in a while doesn't have electric on the docks either.
If you aren't comfortable doing the electric work than you are probably better off not messing with it and just keeping your current set up.
If you are going with the receptacle then I would have two cords if possible. Set one permanently at your dock somehow where it isn't too much in the way, and keep the other stowed safely aboard for when you wind up someplace else that has electric.
Coiling up the electric cord and putting it on the boat where it might be in the way very time you want to take the boat out can be a pain. having an electric cord laying on your home dock where it might be a tripping hazard, or be submerged isn't a good idea either.
I don't leave my boat plugged in very much when I'm not there. I really don't have any reason too, other than maybe keeping a couple of bottles of something cold in the fridge, and I have made other provisions for that with a small dockside fridge secured in a shed. So I have my cord set up for my boat on my dock in case I plug in while we're hanging out, and I just disconnect and hang it out of the way when I leave, or pull away from the dock. I usually take the extra second or two to shut off the breaker to the dockside outlet too so that I don't have a live cord hanging around.
In the rare instance that I wind up somewhere else that has electric on the dock, I use the cord that I keep on the boat. Then again, I was lucky enough to have someone give me a cord that is in great shape after they sold their boat and didn't need it anymore. Most of my destinations are out to waterfront restaurants, or to spend some time out on the hook somewhere. Neither of those destinations have electric available as an option for me. The one place I have been spending some time docked at once in a while doesn't have electric on the docks either.
Capt. Bill1
Active member
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2000
- RO Number
- 2017
- Messages
- 6,127
The new plug will be coded at each of the holes that the wires go into one way or another. It's pretty hard to get it wrong.
When looking at the blades of a 30a plug the L shaped one is the ground (green wire) and the smaller of the two other blades is the neutral (white wire). Which means the last remaining slightly larger blade one is the hot one (black wire).
- Joined
- Mar 1, 2013
- RO Number
- 33181
- Messages
- 123
Before everyone completely "writes off" detachable shore power cords, look at this item (interesting videos on the site). It's an innovative approach to shore power cord design. I have to admit that I have not tried it but it does look promising and if my shore power inlets ever self-destruct, I probably will try it.
http://www.smartplug.com/index.html
http://www.smartplug.com/index.html
The real reason to shut off the breaker (before unplugging the cord) is to eliminate the arcing that will occur if there is current flowing through the cord when you unplug it or when you plug it back in,
This arcing damages the metal pins and sockets and eventually results in a plug and socket with high resistance and a chance of starting a fire.
No doubt that's an improvement over the standard plug and socket in almost universal use, but it leaves you with an unstandard system and the chance of being in a situation where you cannot find a replacement and have to go without electrical power until you can order and receive a new cord or cord cap.
Ron you present well thought out sound engineering ideas on shore power cords. I think the "Smartplug" is nice but I would stick with my standard dual 30A inlets and cords. I leave a set fixed at the dock like you. I also carry a spare set of 50' cords and various dock adapters stored in the boat. I replace my inlets about every 3 years for good measure. I inspect them periodically throughout the season.
I wouldn't want a hardwired shore cord(s) for any reason. But that's just me.
Bill
- Joined
- Sep 16, 2003
- RO Number
- 12212
- Messages
- 12,216
Again it depends on the boat and where the inlets are located. On many boats they are in the way or in a spot where you can't store the cord. In that case then yes, disconnecting the cord is your best option.
It all goes back to builders not paying attention to detail, or trying to save a few bucks. If inlets were located in convenient places it would make it lot easier, and safer. Like those mid size express with inlets on the side of the boat, making you climb on an often narrow side deck carrying the end of the cord to plug the damn thing. Why? Because the electrical panel is right behind, so they save 15' to 20' of heavy wire and the breaker required near the distant inlet.
Rant over
It all goes back to builders not paying attention to detail, or trying to save a few bucks. If inlets were located in convenient places it would make it lot easier, and safer. Like those mid size express with inlets on the side of the boat, making you climb on an often narrow side deck carrying the end of the cord to plug the damn thing. Why? Because the electrical panel is right behind, so they save 15' to 20' of heavy wire and the breaker required near the distant inlet.
Rant over