3607 windlass mounting?

R

rjcress

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29301
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Anyone have pictures or info on how to mount a windlass on a 3607?
I'm hoping that some of the 3607 owners have pictures of how theirs is mounted, and can describe where their cables are routed.
Any other 3607 specific info is appreciated.

Don't want to reinvent the wheel.

Never saw the value of a windlass, until my back started giving me fits. I don't think I'll be able to handle hauling the anchor by hand this year. So, a windlass is looking like a good investment after all. :)
 
I too would enjoy hearing recommendations on this project including ongoing performance feedback of the windlass you have (likes/dislikes). .
 
I found some info at Lewmar dot com there's some videos. My 3607 has a Goode on it it pretty straight forward on install it's feed from my batteries and uses a relay switch for engaging it. If some of the boats near you have them you could just copy them. I think the hardest part would be drilling all the holes in my the boat.
 
While we are at it, any pictures or routing for a 3227 would be great too.
Jim
 
I'd also ask if anyone's put one on a 3297 Mariner - 1986, I'm looking at making it happen before the summer splash - insights are always appreciated. Have a great clean up this spring!
 
can't help you guys out with those models but i installed one on my 320. wiring was easy to the unit, but you need to pay very careful attention to voltage drops and need a fairly hefty cable up to the bow. there are calculators that help you determine the correct gauge based on round-trip distance. location of the solenoid is also important as you'll have wires in and out of it. my boat presented some interesting challenges routing wire to the flybridge, as well.

if i had to do it again, i would get a free-fall model. just my opinion, but i think it helps turn and set the anchor better.
 
32 Carv
I bought a lewmar 1000 yesterday when i get it installed i will let you know how I routed it.
 
Willycross,
Are you doing a switch on the bow or just on the flybridge? Also, you oversized it by one model. Any particular reason why or just more is better? I was thinking about doing the Lewmar 1000 as well but it seems like the 700 should be fine.
Jim
 
I also just ordered a Lewmar ProFish 1000FF and will install it sometime in April. Found an online retailer that is usually pricey, but was having a spring sale. Got it for $60 cheaper than the next lowest I could find.

I'll try to remember to document the installation well with pictures that I can share. The Lewmar videos make it look easy... but they don't address any routing or fishing of wires. That's the part I'm not looking forward to.

I'm leaning towards ordering the Powerwinch P55600 installation kit to cover all of the wiring. They say it is for Powerwinch 40' to 46' class Anchor Winches, or other brand
windlasses for boats up to 46'. Need to figure out what size wires it includes and how long they are before I order though. I'm guessing I'll need at least 25 feet of 8AWG to get from the battery to the breaker, then the breaker to the solenoid box, and the box to the windlass itself.

In my 1986 3607 I'm thinking I'll put the solenoid box in the closet that is outboard of the sink in the forward berth. That will give easy access through the hinged vanity mirror and keep it away from the wet anchor locker.

I opted for foot switches on the deck by the windlass in addition to the included flybridge switch. I've never used a windlass before, so I don't know if I'll need them or not... but thought it best to install them now and be done with it.

Wish me luck, and speak up if you've been sitting on any "must know" installation tips. :)
 
quote:
Originally posted by talexander38

My 3607 has a Goode on it it pretty straight forward on install it's feed from my batteries and uses a relay switch for engaging it.

Click to expand...


Thanks.
Care to describe how the wires are routed from battery to breaker, breaker to relay, relay to windlass?
I have a setup in mind that I think will work, but would love to hear/see how yours was done before I do it the hard way (I have a knack for invariably doing things the hard way). :)
 
Ok, I emailed Powerwinch to ask about the makeup of their Universal Install kit. Here's what they said:
"P55600 6 GA 140' of wire
Each kit contains the following:
-6 GA marine grade wire
-Switch wiring
-Heat shrink tubing
-Ring terminals and other electrical connectors needed for complete
installation
-Hand crimping tool"

I think that kit will give me everything I need, and I've found it at a great price.

BTW, took them just a few minutes to respond to my inquiry from the Contact form on their website. Quick turn around.
 
Jim
Went with the 1000 because I found a deal. I think I will put a foot switch over the old chain hole. Remote switch on the dash. Control switch behind the electrical panel. Breaker/Isolator on the panel. Hot and ground up the starboard side behind the piece of teak through the head and V berth.
Ross
 
Ross,
The flybridge is easy to snake a wire to if you take off the teak panel under the inside station, the access panel covered with carpet over the head, and the backside of the teak chase that goes up to the bridge. I ran some wire up there last year and it was easy. I'm assuming that you are not using a remote battery under the V berth so what size wire are you using?
Jim
 
quote:
Originally posted by talexander38

do they put a relay in it to ?

Click to expand...

The Lewmar 1000FF uses a set of solenoids in a box that needs to be relatively close to the windlass, but also needs to stay dry. The Lewmar 700FF uses no solenoids.
 
here's how my Goode is wired, main wire from DC breaker box up the right side (stbd) behind galley and head mirror then under V-berth up in to chain locker. Then 12v power in ran back up the helm for the switch from the relay, It's ez to install as far the wiring, just one big P.I.T.A. to do. And don't forget to seal the holes you drill in the bow with epoxy.
 
How did your windlass installation end up Bruce?

I installed a windlass a few years ago; and this link is to the project, which includes a schematic of how its wired:

http://www.boat-project.com/mech/proj-14.htm

One issue Bruce touched on is the size of the wire. In DC power, the voltage tends to dissipate along the wire, depending on the current flow. For this reason, although the wire may be capable of carrying the specified current, there may be too much voltage loss for the windlass to work. The remedy is to use a larger AWG wire. For a windlass, you should have less than a 10% voltage drop across the wire for it to work properly.

Voltage drop on a DC wire then is a function of the required current, wire length, and wire AWG.

A voltage-drop calculator can be found below, which aids in determining the voltage drop:

http://www.boat-project.com/tutorials/calculator.htm
 
quote:
Originally posted by talexander38

here's how my Goode is wired, main wire from DC breaker box up the right side (stbd) behind galley and head mirror then under V-berth up in to chain locker. Then 12v power in ran back up the helm for the switch from the relay, It's ez to install as far the wiring, just one big P.I.T.A. to do. And don't forget to seal the holes you drill in the bow with epoxy.

Click to expand...


Awesome! that is where I was thinking of routing the wires. Thanks!
 
my install went well. only one thing was unexpected. i wanted to put the windlass over the existing hole in the anchor locker. after removing the cap over the hole, i realized the oval shape of the hole and the size/shape cutout the windlass needed were not a match, so i put the cap back on and had to drill another hole.

for anyone considering foot pedals, i might reconsider. to get the anchor up, you'll need to be at the helm slowly motoring over the anchor. once you're over it, the helm mounted switch is all you'll need to bring the anchor up. to stow it properly you'll need to go to the bow, but there isn't much value in having two sets of up/down controls.
 
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