3607 windlass mounting?

Update:
I cut the holes (Wow! the deck and pulpit core are thicker than I expected), epoxied the holes, installed the windlass on the pulpit, ran the wires, hooked up the box, breaker, and switch at the helm.

Remaining tasks:
-Cut the rectangle holes to mount the breaker on the panel, and toggle switch at the helm (note to self... remember dremmel next time),

-Splice the rode to the chain

-Reinstall the cleat on the pulpit as a tie-off while at anchor and to allow hookup to the chain while underway. I think I'll put it forward of the windlass and off center to port so it won't interfere with the rope/chain. Thoughts?

-Secure the other end of the rode in the anchor locker. Anyone know how theirs is secured?

-Observe anchor rode locker to see if it needs modified to deal with the wet rode. As is, it doesn't look like the wood is sealed properly to prevent the wet rode from soaking the wood and the access doors. And I am not confident that it will gracefully channel any water out the forward drain hole. I have a feeling I may end up glassing a tub in the bottom of the anchor rode locker. talexander38, do you have any pictures of your anchor rode locker? Maybe I'm over thinking this, but mine just doesn't look well suited to storing a wet rode. I've always left it on deck to dry before stowing it... which is not longer an option.

-Decide whether I want to install the foot switches or send them back. I was set to install them until I saw btoran's note. Now I think I'll try it a few times and see if I think it is worth the time to install them. Was thinking I would put them in the hole where the starboard deck pipe is, likely filling and glassing it first, then drilling the new holes. Dumb question... but I have NEVER actually seen a windlass in use (yet I just bought and installed one... go figure). How do you know when to stop raising the anchor? I could see myself stopping a bit too soon and having it loose and bouncing on the deck, or reeling it up a second too long and breaking something. That is where I thought the foot switches would come in handy... to be able to see from up close exactly how much further to go. Admittedly, I still have to read the operational part of the manual more closely.

-Install something on the upper surface of the pulpit to keep the chain from tearing up the gel coat. I'll likely look for a thin sheet of white plastic that can be glued on and replaced as it gets worn.

-Take pictures of the whole think to post here for the other 3607 owners.

I routed the 6AWG power wires from the breaker though an existing hole forward of the panel and into the open area under the galley.

I mounted the windlass control box on the bulkhead just outboard of the oven, just below the AC pump control box (which failed last season and will be replaced soon... just got the part yesterday).
From there I doubled up the 6AGW wires (ie. 2 runs of red, and 2 runs of black, each in parallel) for the long run up the starboard side. Routed below the galley and forward "closet" (behind mirror at forward head sink), under the forward starboard bunk via the door, and then up to the anchor locker through a deck pipe drain hose that is glassed in at the centerline, but no longer needed.

I did not have to drill any holes to pull the big wires, which surprised me.

The control wires from the bridge were a challenge. I removed the vertical chase cover above the lower helm, but I forgot about the access cover in the galley cabinet over the stove. Once I realized I could remove that to negotiate the wires through the transition from the vertical chase to the area under the lower helm, it was pretty easy.
I drilled one small hole to pass the control wires outboard from the base of the lower helm to the area where the glass door for the electrical panel slides, then through the same hole as the heavy power leads and over to the solenoid box.

So far, talexander38's comments are true for me. Nothing about this has been difficult. Just a long series of simple tasks, many of which are a real P.I.T.A.
 
Secure the other end of the rode in the anchor locker. Anyone know how theirs is secured?

Tie a big knot so the rode won't go through the gypsy, or if its all chain, a larger D-ring on the end that won't pass through the gypsy. While you'll know when the end of the rode is reached by the windlass stalling, its far better than trying to recover the rode off the bottom of the ocean. On my old boat (Four Winns), they thoughtfully put a cleat on the UNDERSIDE of the anchor locker to tie the end off. It was essentially a backing plate for the topside tie off cleat (i.e. the cleats were bolted together topside and underside). Also, put some paint or yellow electrical tape a couple feet from the end so you will know when you reach that point before the windlass stalls.

How do you know when to stop raising the anchor?

Again, put some tape or paint on the chain about a foot before the anchor is in the fully retracted position. You are going to want to stop the windlass at that point anyway as the anchor will tend to swing wildly once its a few feet from the deck. If you attempt to pull it all the way in while it is swinging, it can damage the pulpit. So, the marker will tell you when to stop... then after a few seconds to let the anchor settle down, hit the up control in small bursts to "inch" the remaining chain until the knuckle of the anchor clears the anchor roller. At that point, you can bring it fully on board. You can snug the rode up until you hear the windlass motor start to stall, then stop at that point.

Again, small bursts when the anchor is almost fully on board is the way to do it, and the windlass should not be so powerful that it bends the pulpit. What I do is once I hear the windlass start to labor, I back off the down switch with a very short tap on the down button.

Install something on the upper surface of the pulpit to keep the chain from tearing up the gel coat. I'll likely look for a thin sheet of white plastic that can be glued on and replaced as it gets worn.

I used this stuff on my last boat (current boat doesn't have a chain... its a rope-only windlass that I will be replacing one day). It's about $10, self-adhesive, and can easily be cut to size. http://www.beckson.com/stepmate.html

I have the step switches on my windlass; factory option from Carver. About the only time I have used them is to work on the anchor, which is maybe once every couple of years. If you want to keep from drilling more holes in your boat - it would be a good candidate to skip.

Wet rode (rope version). When its coiled up in the anchor locker, even though any water that falls off the rode eventually finds its way into the drain, the rope seems to stay wet for quite some time. Probably not enough airflow through the locker to dry everything out - drain or not.
 
my rode locker is stock as carver made it. Never had any issues with wet line draining. if you want some pics Email me and i'll send them to you. talexander38 at cox dot net
 
Installed my Windlass yesterday. I drilled the 3" hole in the deck through the bow sprite. Cut a piece of 3" fiberglass exhaust coupler and epoxied it in letting the bottom hang down an inch or so. Then i cut a piece of star board with the template and used it as backing inside the chain locker. I ran battery cables to the breaker for the selinoid that I mounted on the electrical panel. From the selinoid mounted behind the electric panel I ran 4 gauge wire up the starboard side behind the teak trim. In the chain locker I soldered and heat shrank the splice to the motor. From the bridge I ran 12 gauge from the toggle to the solenoid. One of the reasons I like the 1000 model you dont have to run the heavier gauge wirs to the controls. Well there you go, works great
 
quote:
Originally posted by willysross

Installed my Windlass yesterday. ... works great

Click to expand...

Congrats Willy.

I finished my installation today, just had to cut the holes to mount the switch at the helm and breaker on the panel.
Then I fed my anchor rode in, attached the anchor (sans chain, for now), tied a BIG knot in the other end (so it won't fit through the hole) and tested. IT WORKED!
Must have been funny to watch me raise and lower the anchor about 6 times in a row. :)

I'll try to remember to take pictures next time.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top