76' Carver's Integrity?

G

gldavison

Member
Joined
Sep 4, 2007
RO Number
28482
Messages
9
Hi Carver Folks,

I need some advice on a '76 2276 camper please. I finally got my engine running good this season and took it to the bay for its first splash (for me that is)when I discovered I could not steer the lower unit. Next I noticed water coming in through the hull.

This is my first boat and I would really like to bring it back to a decent useable condition. I contacted a few marinas to come take a look at the hull and so far two have told me that opening it up is like opening up a can of worms. I have never done boat restoration or worked with fiberglass.

Today I pulled the gas tank to take a closer look at the hul and to locate the one observed hole. Under the tank the hull sort of flexes and has that hollow sound to it. I am unclear as to what I should do from here?

I read up on repairing the one hole but now I have a couple of flexing spots in the hull that I know of. Then I read about the foam being saturated with water and also rotten stringers. My Carver has the removable floor pannels but I do not see how I would ever access the entire hull from inside without removing the deck frame, and I have no idea besides cutting it out on how to do that?

I need some advice and I realize this is hard to advise on over the computer but I thought I would at least try. The boat sat for 10 years in a barn (water tight) on a trailer and I am not sure of its history prior to that. It is the perfect boat for my needs if it floats.

Thanks for any help you can offer.

Best Regards,
Greg
 
I hate to be the bearer of bad news but I'm willing to bet good money that the problems you have will cost a lot more to repair than the boat is worth.
Yes the boat sat in a water tight barn for 10 years but if water had gotten into areas it shouldn't be in, then you have 10 years for things like stringers to go bad.
Based on your descriptions of the boat's problems, you will probably be better off cutting your losses and scrapping the boat.
 
Thank you. What if I did the work myself, would this be worth it with just purchasing materials?

Thanks-
Greg
 
No question that sweat equity is much more affordable. However, based on your comments, you need someone really qualified to do this work. Not that you can't get "on the job training", and do it yourself, but you really need, at the very minimum, some expert guidance.
 
GL, This is a very big can of worms to open up, as you suggest. But given that the 2276 is a relatively small boat and a very interesting model you MIGHT be able to justify learning how to fix it. Of course it might be easier to just scan boats.com and find another one with fewer problems!!!

IMHO, the trouble you describe is likely twofold: (1) a rotted transom (there's wood in between the layers of fiberglass back there), and (2) rotted balsa coring in between the layers of fiberglass on the hull bottom. I wasn't sure if you were saying your stringers had rot in them or if you just read that somewhere, otherwise that would be the third thing. Regarding the hull coring, there is no foam used on Carvers of that vintage. What's in there are little square pieces of "end-grain" balsa wood laid in there like floor tiles in your bathroom on top of the inner layer of fiberglass cloth, and then an outer layer is laid on there to make a sandwich...

To see what I mean, pick a sunny day and open up a cabinet in either the head compartment or perhaps under the V berth, somewhere where Carver didn't apply that gray bilge paint. You should see that orangy translucent glow where the sunlight is coming in through the hull. Go down near the waterline and you'll see the outlines of little squares - that's the balsa coring. Chances are the stuff is just mush back in the section where it went bad...

There is no getting around this one - its a huge repair job. You'd have to isolate the area where the coring is bad, then cut away the inner layer of fiberglass and scoop out the wet coring material with something. Then purchase new balsa or some other material (be careful using regular plywood because it is heavier than balsa and will affect the trim of the boat) and apply a new inner layer of fiberglass cloth, preferably with EPOXY resin as opposed to the polyester resin Carver used originally - epoxy sticks a whole lot better to coring material and the existing outer layers of cloth, but is rather expensive which is why the boat was built with polyester...

So, its doable, and might make a satisfying project, but as was already stated above, its not a job for a novice with no training. There are books you can obtain, such as the West System stuff, from BoatFix or your local retailer. Or perhaps somewhere near you is a class on boatbuilding techniques. You live in WI, which is where Carvers are built so maybe some old salt can give you some tips at one of the nearby marinas. And you can practice before messing around with your boat by buying the materials and making some fiberglass pieces in your garage. Try fiberglassing an old pail or something, or maybe a rusted fender on your car. Just some thoughts...
 
As usual, Pete has a wealth of knowledge to pass on.
One other thing I might suggest, I assume your boat is out of the water. Ask around and see if you can find someone who can "sound" the hull for you. Sounding the hull is using a special hammer to hit the hull. A good hull will give back a very sharp sound. A problem hull will give you a "thud". You need to sound the deck as well to look for delamination there.
If you go over the whole hull and only get a few thuds, you might have a doable project. If you get thuds all over, that's when you scrap this project boat.
Pete, your thoughts on this would be appreciated.
 
Well thank you all for the information and it was informative. I love to hear from folks in the know.

I am trying to get some local boat builders out to take a look at the hull and give me some advice.

Your right about guideance and assistance in this project. Normally I am OK with my confidence in mechanical things but this has me searching for as my confidence is not there.

I will keep pestering folks in Sturgeon Bay to come take a look and give me their professional advice. Thank you all for the comments, I sure do appreciate them.

What would a guy do with a boat to get rid of it? The engine is good.

Good Night,
Greg
 
Thanks for the kind words, Charles!!!

(1) regarding sounding the hull - excellent idea. I used my son's "Bob the Builder" plastic hammer with a face on it when I was buying my last Carver. It was good for a lot of strange looks from people, but it damn well did the job. The reason - nobody wants you hitting their boat with a metal hammer, and a rubber mallet is too soft. So that little plastic one was PERFECT :) !!!

(2) regarding disposing of the boat - that boat has an engine, an outdrive/gimbal, stainless steel hardware, gauges, and a good deal of teak on it. Perhaps a refrigerator or icebox and a few other items. All of those pieces should be salvageable. The rest of it might be a good donation to the local fire department for use in practice. Or you can chop the thing up with a chainsaw and rent a dumpster. I've disposed of small boats by driving them into a garbage facility on a trailer, having them weigh the boat and trailer on the way in, then after they grabbed the boat with a forklift, they weigh you on the way out, and you pay for the difference. Just FYI - I hope it doesn't come to this, Greg!!!
 
It's CPES for clear penetrating epoxy sealer.
The wood has to be completely dry before using it. It will stop rot but not repair it.
This is some nasty stuff. If you use it, you have to have either great ventilation or a respirator (or both).

Anyway, you still need to get some expert advice on this boat and at the very least, sound out the hull. I wouldn't do anything until that was done.
 
It might be an option, but boy it sounds like a rather involved one. I'm really not sure what is easier - doing it their way or just ripping apart the damn fiberglass shell and redoing the core...

One thing I would advise is making sure you have access to all points UPHILL from the weak area, so that this gook can flow downhill to the affected spot. I've done similar things with a stuff called Git-Rot, but never on a repair of this magnitude. It would work fine on a deck core repair job or in sealing up some rotted wood in the cabin sides or top...
 
Thank you all for your input. I took my boat to a surveyor and he inspected my boat. The results were not as I had hoped. The boat is beyond reclamation. He did not charge me, that was a nice gesture I thought.

Now I have a boat with a working engine but a bad hull. Any thoughts on what to do with it? I would hope to salvage and sell some items. Does anyone reading have a need for anything off an old Carver 2276?

The engine is a 302 Merc 888 with Merc lower unit. Trailer is tandom axle roller w/surge brake.

Now I would love to turn and trade this boat/parts for a similar boat if possible. It kills me to be out in the middle of Lake Michigan and Green Bay and not be able to enjoy the water with my family. Please keep your ears open for me I need a good network to keep my spirits up.

Thanks Again,
Greg
 
Sorry to hear that Greg. Better to find out now than after you put a lot of work and $$$ into it.
 
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