Adding Water Tank for Fresh Flush

F

fizerocks

Member
exMember
Joined
Feb 16, 2005
RO Number
16319
Messages
162
So would it be a pretty easy project for me to add a seperate tank for fresh water flushing my toilet?

We picked up a 15 gallon poly tank that would fit nicely down below right next to the existing seacock for the raw water.

What I'm wondering is can the existing pump that pulls in the raw water be enough to pull from this seperate tank or am I going to need to add a water pump to this as well?

232323232%7Ffp43364%3Enu%3D3254%3E496%3E797%
 
What type of head do you have? Will the tank be lower than the head(I assume so)? Is this a raw water conversion you want to do on the head and don't want any chance of cross contamination?
Most freshwater heads use pressurized freshwater from the normal holding tanks with a solenoid and an additional 1 way plumbed valve to keep the contamination from happening.
Bill
 
On my Regal, I had a hand pump head. In port, I just left the switch on the flush mode and filled the bowl from the sink/shower to flush. Underway we used raw water. Not the slickest system, but it worked and I had no worry of contaminating my water supply.
 
If you are only going to use the 15 gallon tank for flushing the pump you have will be ok....HOWEVER if you plumb the 15 gallon tank into your exisitng fresh water tanks, then you will need the water solenoid as BillyIII mentioned, and once again this all depends on the type of head you have
 
I planned on only using the 15 gallon tank for the fresh water flush. I pull out my boat briefcase tonight when I get home and double check my brand of toilet.
 
A 15 gallon tank will last you a good number of flushes before the tank needs to be refilled. I had a similar hookup years ago in a van when my kids were small. I had a 12 gallon tank that supplied water to a marine toilet that I had installed in the truck. The only thing that you need to do is be sure the tank is vented. If air can't get into the tank, the toilet's pump won't draw anything out of the tank. Also, if the toilet has an intake pump with a rubber inpeller inside it, you need to be careful that you don't burn out the impeller when the tank is empty and you flush the toilet. Otherwise, it should work just fine for you. In my case, I had an old Raritan PHE toilet installed (the electrified version of the PH) and it worked real well. (I won't tell you where the toilet emptied when it flushed...)
 
I'm going to take a picture of the tank tonight and post my thought process on how to hook up.

Thanks everyone - James
 
If the head can pull water from the seacock it will pull water from the tank. I assume this is going to be a permenant setup. Unhook the hose from the seacock and attach it to the tank and then cap off the seacock.
 
quote:
Originally posted by mandm1200

If the head can pull water from the seacock it will pull water from the tank. I assume this is going to be a permenant setup. Unhook the hose from the seacock and attach it to the tank and then cap off the seacock.

Click to expand...


Thanks mandm1200. I was wondering if the pull from the toilet pump was going to be big enough or if I would have to add some type of assist.
 
I would "T" it in and clogse the seacock as a just in case measure. Running out of flushing water is not my idea of a great afternoon.
 
The chance of running the storage tank empty is possible, but where I boat there is plenty of water to scoop up with a bucket if needed or just use water from the tap.
 
I boat on Georgian Bay where the water is pretty clean (and freshwater). I added a valve off my washdown pump that I could use to fill my freshwater tanks. The water goes through a 5 micron carbon filter, then a .5 micron filter, and finally a UV sterilizer and into the tank. I'm going to plumb a water softener in line too (just because I have one).

When I'm on the hook for extended periods, I simply refill from the lake. We use that water to flush, shower, wash dishes, etc. For drinking, I have a Seagull water purifier next to the sink. I've had the water tested and it's cleaner than my well water at home.
 
Do I need to mount the tank at the same location as the seacock. I have a spot in the engine room that is slightly higher that I planned on placing the tank.
 
quote:
Originally posted by KiDa

I would "T" it in and clogse the seacock as a just in case measure. Running out of flushing water is not my idea of a great afternoon.
Click to expand...


That's what I would so also. Even if I thought I would never run out of water, a potential buyer down the road would probably want the flexibility of using raw water.
 
quote:
Originally posted by fizerocks

Do I need to mount the tank at the same location as the seacock. I have a spot in the engine room that is slightly higher that I planned on placing the tank.
Click to expand...

As long as it's not higher than the head you should be fine. Keep in mind, that tank, when filled, will weigh over 100 lb. It might affect your trim or create a list, depending on where you locate it.
 
quote:
Originally posted by rawidman

quote:
Originally posted by fizerocks

Do I need to mount the tank at the same location as the seacock. I have a spot in the engine room that is slightly higher that I planned on placing the tank.
Click to expand...

As long as it's not higher than the head you should be fine. Keep in mind, that tank, when filled, will weigh over 100 lb. It might affect your trim or create a list, depending on where you locate it.

Click to expand...


Actually I hope it helps balance me out a little. The tank will be oposite of my waste tank and battery bank.

I sure hope this works out.
 
To Vic:

You mentioned above needing to vent the tank. Can this be as simple as leaving the fill lid slighly loose or do I need to drill a hole in the tank and add a vent similiar to our fresh water system?
 
Just loosen the cap, or drilling a small hole (1/8"-3/16") in it, should do. You just need to be able to get enough air inside it to replace what you're drawing out of it at any given time.
 
quote:
Originally posted by Vic Willman

Just loosen the cap, or drilling a small hole (1/8"-3/16") in it, should do. You just need to be able to get enough air inside it to replace what you're drawing out of it at any given time.
Click to expand...


That will certainly vent it, but there's no protection from overfilling.

Installing a proper thru hull vent and hose would be a more professional looking job.
 
quote:
Originally posted by rawidman

quote:
Originally posted by Vic Willman

Just loosen the cap, or drilling a small hole (1/8"-3/16") in it, should do. You just need to be able to get enough air inside it to replace what you're drawing out of it at any given time.
Click to expand...


That will certainly vent it, but there's no protection from overfilling.

Installing a proper thru hull vent and hose would be a more professional looking job.

Click to expand...


Would I just drill a hole in the tank and somehow expoxy it in place and then run the vent line?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top