Advice for replacing Volvo DPS u-joints

Chriznat20

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I have a 99 Four Winns Vista with a 5.7L Volvo Duo-Prop outdrive. I have all of the manuals (Volvo Penta and Semloc) and pulling the drive off appears to be pretty straightforward, you take off the shift linkage and the 6 nuts holding the outdrive on and with 2 people pull it off, right? Any tips appreciated!

Im going to replace the u-joints. Any tips here? Ive ordered the Volvo Penta replacements and have the u-joint clip removal pliers (used them several times over on car/truck u-joints- thank god I invested in them).

Just looking for tips/stories/advice. Its my first time pulling off a DP-S outdrive.
 
Yup, loosen up the shift cable "bracket", starboard side of drive. Then when you remove the cover you'll remove the cotter pin and nut so cable can slide out. You'll also need to remove the end caps, e-clips and washers, to slide out the pivot arm(?) I also removed the props last fall before removing drive. Made the drive much lighter, I was able to lift myself without props on.
 
Cool.. thanks for the reply. Do I have to mark the shift linkage somehow so when I put it back together it wont be out of adjustment?
 
not really up on the newer Volvo's.. but older ones allowed access to the ujoints by removing the upper gear housing... if replacing ujoints is your only goal. That's on my 290DP.. same for a DPS?.. dunno.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Chriznat20

Cool.. thanks for the reply. Do I have to mark the shift linkage somehow so when I put it back together it wont be out of adjustment?






Be sure to count the number of turns to remove the cube nut from the shift cable so you can reassemble with the correct position.
 
UPDATE: I called my local Volvo Penta authorized dealer with my outdrive Model (DP-SM) and my outdrive model # (3868913) and they told me that I cant replace individual u-joints - I have to replace the whole yoke and shaft assembly to the tune of $348!
I went on ebay and found a few of them, brand new, Volvo Penta for a lot less. I'll just buy on ebay and do it myself. Heres a picture of the shaft/yoke/u joint assembly that Im supposed to replace when I replace the u-joints:
shaft2fn5.jpg


Is this true though, that you cant replace the individual u-joints and the whole shaft/ujoint assembly has to be replaced? Ive never heard of such a thing....
 
DP-SM is a different animal from mine.. the volvo schematic does not show a part number, and under notes says "not serviced". Darned if I know why. Perhaps it's "factory" balanced as a unit.. and that's the only way they'll sell it. If someone on the board doesn't pipe up, I'm sure George can check aftermarket availability.
 
Ok so I can handle that. No big deal - the prop shaft and u-joints have to be replaced as one unit. BUT does the shaft that goes into the outdrive upper unit just slide out, like the other end slides out of the gimble bearing/engine coupler? [?] Strangely the Semloc manual I have is very detailed in the outdrive but there is no mention at all about the shaft end that goes into the outdrive.
 
Who told you you can't change the u-joints? This is not true at all.

The shaft in question is pressed into a bearing that is in the bearing carrier. My sugestion is to take the drive off and bring it to someone that can press the u-joints on and off or remove the whole yoke assembly from the drive by removing the 4 bolts that hold on the bearing carrier and bring it in that way. If you do this, keep track of the adjusting shims and make sure you put all of them back on.
 
quote:

Originally posted by bruceb

Who told you you can't change the u-joints?...






sounds like the dudes at the Volvo parts desk... but you know how that goes.

quote:

Originally posted by Chriznat20

.. BUT does the shaft that goes into the outdrive upper unit just slide out, like the other end slides out of the gimble bearing/engine coupler? ...






On mine (I know.. apples & oranges).. the answer is no.. there's a screw holding the drive side yoke.. but if, as Bruce says, the shaft is pressed in?.. then I'd do the yoke assembly deal he mentions.. take it to a shop and have them do it... (and maybe call George, if there's any doubt).
 
Be careful. There's a thrust bearing in there that has to be torqued correctly or you'll strip the bearing and cause major damage to several internal parts.
 
Chris and others, that picture of the U-JOINT Assembly, Sleeve, pretension and Screw, Pinion gear retainer are NOT all items that are necessary to correctly install that U-JOINT Assembly. Additionally knowledge of “rolling torque” is needed for the installation otherwise failure is inevitable. The drive will need a pressure and vacuum tests and refill of synthetic lube upon completion. Read the VOLVO maintenance manual for the CORRECT complete procedure!
 
Agree with Mike Clemson. Rolling torque is adjusted by crushing a sleeve on the inside gear assembly. Very east to go too far, and new sleeve needs installed and must start over. Check your service manual thoroughly before you start, to see if you have the tools and experience. Good Luck
 
Chriznat: That whole assembly caveat may have developed from this Volvo bulletin I saw yesterday when a search for V-P bulletins landed at marine mechanic dot com :

Volvo Penta Marine Products 44-2 20

290 DP, SX, DP-S, DPX

Unbalance in universal joint

When a universal joint spider is changed in any of the drives listed above, it is important that the components are reassembled so that the sub-components assume the same positions as before the universal joint was disassembled. Mark the universal joint before disassembly, as in the figure below, to ensure that the correct position is assumed on re-assembly.

If the components are not assembled as below, or if a new fork/center section from a different universal joint is installed, the result could be un-balance in the universal joint. Each complete universal joint is balanced at the factory. In the future, to ensure that customers do not have problems with unbalance, Volvo Penta will only sell loose spiders or complete universal joints as spare parts.
 
Ok I Thank everybody for their responses... I called a very reputable Volvo Penta mechanic today, over 15 years experience. He basically told me all that was involved and it appears that Im not the man to do this myself. Im going to buy the part though and save a few $$ that way, then bring it in to him and he will replace the u-joints and shaft for 2 hours labor ($80/hr). After he told me on the phone about that pressed bearing and something about "crushed washers" and new seals and crap I said forget it!

Heres what Im going to do. Ive never taken the drive off. Im going to take the drive off myself, inspect the u-joints myself. Heck- they might just need grease! The outdrive was not taken off last year. SO I might get away easy (wishful thinking, LOL)
 
Don't be surprised if the u-joints don't have grease fittings...many don't.
 
Awww crap. Yeah the mechanic mentioned that. I will check and advise... I'll bring this thread back alive in a week or so with and update :D
 
Crisnat 20, If after your job is done, try to take out both old u joints, and see if they can be purchased from another source that makes the joints. possibly, you can find them, and let us all in on the brand and numbers. thanks.
 
quote:


...There's a thrust bearing in there that has to be torqued correctly or you'll strip the bearing and cause major damage to several internal parts...

... knowledge of "rolling torque" is needed for the installation otherwise failure is inevitable...

... Rolling torque is adjusted by crushing a sleeve on the inside gear assembly. Very east to go too far...





Dang... almost like "resistance is futile". Don't stand too close to that thing.. and just hand over your wallet!
 
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