Aft Bilge pump not working (fixed)

  • Thread starter Thread starter PJ
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PJ

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On my Carver 30 Aft Cabin the Aft bilge pump will not switch on automatically. I can use the helm switch and it will run. When I manually move the float switch it will not turn on. I have tested the switch and it is good and I have replaced all of the wiring butt connectors. None of these things fixed the issue. The mid cabin bilge works on auto and manual.
Is there a fuse that is in line with the float switch for the aft pump? I do not think there would be a fuse, but it was worth the question. Could the helm switch be bad? What other wiring problem could there be?
 
I would still bet it's the Float Switch? Is it a Rule Super switch Float Switch?
 
Capt. Art It is not the float switch I have cut the wires and connected the two together that go to the float switch to see if it would activate and it did not? After I get it working I will buy an electronic float switch, not sure what brand the current float switch is.
 
One possible explanation:

I have observed boats where the switch on the helm was actually a toggle switch with 3 positions.
toggle forward -> manual on
toggle middle -> off
toggle back -> auto on

If your switch is as above, then I would suggest that yes the switch is bad or the wiring to the switch is corroded and not allowing the circuit to make in the auto position.

another explanation:

A second switch is wired into the auto ground wired and it is now switched to off.

My observation of bilge pump wiring, there is one fused hot wire to the pump, then the ground wiring is the wire on the circuit that is switched either by a manual switch or the auto float switch and they are not fused.

Of course, someone could have totally re-done the wiring on your boat to that pump. If that is the case, you will just have to trace and wire it properly.

Just my thoughts, and may not be your problem.
 
My Trojan/Caver has separate breaker for both manual and auto for for each of the four pumps on board. It may just be a breaker that has popped.
 
Found the problem!!!! The wire that went to the switch was corroded so bad that it got hot and separated from the connector but was still in the connector.
Capt Art I will now agree with you, it was the float switch!!!! After I reconnected the old switch the wire got very hot, so I had to replace the float switch. The wire to the switch was so corroded inside the insulation.

Thanks all, I appreciate you advice and help.
 
quote:

Originally posted by PJ

Found the problem!!!! ...






Thanks for posting the solution. Too often the solution is never posted and we can't learn from other's experiences.
 
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