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Air Conditioner
- Thread starter rawidman
- Start date
My former boat had resistance heat built into the A/C unit. I liked it wayyyy better than the reverse cycle I currently have. My current 93 Crusair blower runs non stop in the heat mode (and A/C), even when the desired temp has been reached. Consequently I run the fore ward unit when we are sleeping aft. That non stop dry air is uncomfortable.(this ain't humid coastal real estate).
I've looked at all the info I can find on circa 93 Crusair thermostats and can't find any adjustment for this condition. Box heater is more comfortable. Plus, reverse cycle can't be used after winterizing.
I've looked at all the info I can find on circa 93 Crusair thermostats and can't find any adjustment for this condition. Box heater is more comfortable. Plus, reverse cycle can't be used after winterizing.
quote:
Originally posted by KiDa
Ron,
I've no experience with Flagship so I'll defer to Hogan on that one. I like the concept though.
My only concern would be the added load on the gennie while underway in colder weather. It may present a new load management situation or one that is insurmountable with your current Gennie.
Just something to consider.
My 2 cents.
No genset. Electricity use is not a concern as long as it and other appliances (water heater) together don't trip the breaker.
Examining the warranty, it is my opinion that I still have a month left on the "parts only" portion. If the AC guy doesn't respond to my email I will contact Cruise Air.
As for them offering resistance heat, we're talking about the small self contained units here. If Cruise Air and the dealer won't stand behind their product, the replacement won't be a Dometic unit.
quote:
Originally posted by rbmitchell
Getting seawater (raw water) into the refrigerant should be all but impossible. The Dometic units (Cruisair or Marineair) use heat exchanger consisting of two concentric tubes. The refrigerant runs on the inside and the raw water runs outside of the inner tube and inside the outer tube. Since the inner tube is the only refrigerant/raw water interface, a perforation would have to exist in the inner tube. The refrigerant pressure is much higher than anything expected in the raw water, the leak would be of refrigerant into the raw water. Not vice versa. If there was something to cause the perforation, your unit would have crapped out well before you found water in the refrigerant.
Both times this problem occurred when in the heating (reverse cycle) mode.
- Joined
- Mar 4, 2001
- RO Number
- 3641
- Messages
- 765
In the cooling mode, the pressure is much higher in the concentric tube. When the unit is reverse cycled, the pressure is lower in the tube but until much of the Freon is lost, the pressure is still higher than that expected in the raw water side. Loss of Freon followed by switching to reverse cycling could cause raw water to ne pulled into the Freon. Multiple failure of this type imply some systemic problem other than a particular brand.
quote:
Originally posted by bobalong
My current 93 Crusair blower runs non stop in the heat mode (and A/C), even when the desired temp has been reached. Consequently I run the fore ward unit when we are sleeping aft. That non stop dry air is uncomfortable.(this ain't humid coastal real estate).
I've looked at all the info I can find on circa 93 Crusair thermostats and can't find any adjustment for this condition.
Is the thermostat "new" enough to be a "Passport" controller? The blower can be programmed on those...
-Chris
quote:
Originally posted by ranger42c
quote:
Originally posted by bobalong
My current 93 Crusair blower runs non stop in the heat mode (and A/C), even when the desired temp has been reached. Consequently I run the fore ward unit when we are sleeping aft. That non stop dry air is uncomfortable.(this ain't humid coastal real estate).
I've looked at all the info I can find on circa 93 Crusair thermostats and can't find any adjustment for this condition.
Is the thermostat "new" enough to be a "Passport" controller? The blower can be programmed on those...
-Chris
Don't have the manual here at home but seems like there were some adjustments that could be made by holding one button and then pressing another to effect the change. Not even sure I have the exact manual since I had to match a picture of the thermostat to something on the internet.
quote:
Originally posted by bobalong
quote:
Originally posted by ranger42c
quote:
Originally posted by bobalong
My current 93 Crusair blower runs non stop in the heat mode (and A/C), even when the desired temp has been reached. Consequently I run the fore ward unit when we are sleeping aft. That non stop dry air is uncomfortable.(this ain't humid coastal real estate).
I've looked at all the info I can find on circa 93 Crusair thermostats and can't find any adjustment for this condition.
Is the thermostat "new" enough to be a "Passport" controller? The blower can be programmed on those...
-Chris
Don't have the manual here at home but seems like there were some adjustments that could be made by holding one button and then pressing another to effect the change. Not even sure I have the exact manual since I had to match a picture of the thermostat to something on the internet.
Sounds like it could be programmable then, sounds similar to ours. We do press a couple "buttons" simultaneously to enter programming mode, and then it's just a matter of setting each parameter (e.g., fan operations, speed, etc.) however you like.
We change throughout the season. Early, we run the saloon and stateroom fans only when the AC or heat comes on. Later, in hotter weather, we mostly run the saloon fan continuously. And so forth.
Go here http://dometic.com/QBank/EPiServer/...r-Passport-Control-Operation-Manual_21429.pdf for the MarineAir/Passport version. If that's not the right one, go back up one link and look around in the Air Conditioning menu.
As far as I know, both MarineAir and Cruisair at the time both used the same controller (e.g., Passport, later Elite) even before Dometic acquired them.
-Chris
quote:
Originally posted by rawidman
quote:
Originally posted by KiDa
Ron,
I've no experience with Flagship so I'll defer to Hogan on that one. I like the concept though.
My only concern would be the added load on the gennie while underway in colder weather. It may present a new load management situation or one that is insurmountable with your current Gennie.
Just something to consider.
My 2 cents.
No genset. Electricity use is not a concern as long as it and other appliances (water heater) together don't trip the breaker.
Examining the warranty, it is my opinion that I still have a month left on the "parts only" portion. If the AC guy doesn't respond to my email I will contact Cruise Air.
As for them offering resistance heat, we're talking about the small self contained units here. If Cruise Air and the dealer won't stand behind their product, the replacement won't be a Dometic unit.
My water heater and AC are separate and on different legs. Is that a possibility?
quote:
Originally posted by KiDa
quote:
Originally posted by rawidman
quote:
Originally posted by KiDa
Ron,
I've no experience with Flagship so I'll defer to Hogan on that one. I like the concept though.
My only concern would be the added load on the gennie while underway in colder weather. It may present a new load management situation or one that is insurmountable with your current Gennie.
Just something to consider.
My 2 cents.
No genset. Electricity use is not a concern as long as it and other appliances (water heater) together don't trip the breaker.
Examining the warranty, it is my opinion that I still have a month left on the "parts only" portion. If the AC guy doesn't respond to my email I will contact Cruise Air.
As for them offering resistance heat, we're talking about the small self contained units here. If Cruise Air and the dealer won't stand behind their product, the replacement won't be a Dometic unit.
My water heater and AC are separate and on different legs. Is that a possibility?
Nope. Single 30 amp service.
The AC guy insists that since the failure was in the heat exchanger it's not covered by warranty. I think I've pissed him off and I know he's pissed me off. I'm going to call the manufacturer and if they won't replace it I'll tell them what I think of their product.
I called Cruise Air and they were no help. So slightly less than five years for a $2500 air conditioner. I did tell the guy that I was dissapointed with his product and that thereplacement wouldn't be a Cruise Air.
Also, apparently they now only offer a two year warranty. He had to research to find the warranty document I had from 2010.
Also, apparently they now only offer a two year warranty. He had to research to find the warranty document I had from 2010.
- Joined
- Mar 4, 2001
- RO Number
- 3641
- Messages
- 765
Save the heat exchanger. It is easy to test it for a leak. You simply pressurize the water side with air with a pressure gauge on a tee and watch the decay, if any, of air pressure. This is a standard "leak down" test. If a leak is found, shown by a loss of pressure, the heat exchanger should be opened up and examined for the cause. I would expect a defect in material or workmanship. If there was (is) some sort of galvanic problem, the end of the copper water tube (the inner tube) will be badly corroded before the current reaches the part by the refrigerant.
quote:
Originally posted by waveform
I believe that Ocean Breeze and Flagship are the same. They are located in the same building anyway, and look pretty much the same.
I have had good luck with the Ocean Breeze. They are in Stuart, Florida
They are not in the same building and don't appear to be the same company. I mapquested them both and while both in Stuart, Fl they are in different zip codes and appear to be 2-3 miles apart. I owned 2 OB units around 10 years ago and trouble with both (burned out relays). I did like the electric heat feature and may give Flagship a shot when I need to replace the 28 year old Marine Air in my 1986 Sea Ray.
quote:
Originally posted by rbmitchell
Save the heat exchanger. It is easy to test it for a leak. You simply pressurize the water side with air with a pressure gauge on a tee and watch the decay, if any, of air pressure. This is a standard "leak down" test. If a leak is found, shown by a loss of pressure, the heat exchanger should be opened up and examined for the cause. I would expect a defect in material or workmanship. If there was (is) some sort of galvanic problem, the end of the copper water tube (the inner tube) will be badly corroded before the current reaches the part by the refrigerant.
I could, but the company only guarantees the heat exchanger for one year so it doesn't matter. The compressor has a five year warranty but apparently not if the failure was caused by some other part that they manufactured.
Pretty crappy, I think.
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2002
- RO Number
- 7269
- Messages
- 802
I am always interested in people's views and comments on A/C units. Based on this thread...and other threads I have read in this forum, you better believe that Crusair is definately off my list of possible replacements when it comes time to replace mine-which will probably be this year. If enough people paid attention to what is posted online about inferior products, the inferior products would go go away. Crusair...if your smart, you'd be paying attention-just my 2 cents.
I am having second thoughts about the resistance heat option. My previous AC would often begin to freeze up when it couldn't keep up with the heat load (a trawler with lots of windows). The system would go into heat mode for a minute or two and melt the ice, then back into cooling mode. A non reverse cycle AC won't be able to do this. I'm going to ask the company about this before I order.
I can't really go higher than 16,000 or 18,000 BTU because it's a 30 amp boat. I'm trying to work with a friend in the window tinting business for high efficiency tinting but so far no luck.
I can't really go higher than 16,000 or 18,000 BTU because it's a 30 amp boat. I'm trying to work with a friend in the window tinting business for high efficiency tinting but so far no luck.
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2002
- RO Number
- 7269
- Messages
- 802
A reverse cycle (heat pump) system should never have to go through a defrost mode in the cooling mode. If your evaporator coil is icing up, you have a problem-either undersized for the load and never able to shut down(likely based on your comment) restricted air flow across the evaporator coil (clogged filter, insufficent return or supply vents) or low on freon. I'm actually surprised that the manufacturer even built that option into their system. Heat pumps should only go into defrost mode in the heating mode when the water temp is too cold to draw heat from.