I can't recall the process for removing air from a system with multiple faucets. I know you turn on all faucets and then begin shutting them down, one at a time. But do you start with the furthest or the closest faucet when closing them? Thanks.
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Air in fresh water line question.
- Thread starter bomikes48
- Start date
The first person to open any particular faucet will bleed it for you.
I usually just turn on the nearest HOT water faucet till it's cleared of air. This primes the pump and makes sure the water heater has water in it. The rest I may ignore till I need to use them.
I usually just turn on the nearest HOT water faucet till it's cleared of air. This primes the pump and makes sure the water heater has water in it. The rest I may ignore till I need to use them.
I do the cold 1st then do the hot's only after everything is burped do I turn on the Hot water heater. You should routinely crack the hot water side when 1st starting it up to reduce the chance of explosive gas build up from the hot water heater.
Bill
Bill
quote:
Originally posted by stmbtwle
The rest I may ignore till I need to use them.
If I wait and don't clear all the faucets and there's air in any of the others, my pump will turn on and off by itself. I can access the whole plumbing system and find no evidence of a leak. So I'm beginning to think that perhaps air in the remaining faucets is fooling my pressure switch in the Flojet. That's why I originally posted my query.
I want to really clear the lines before suspecting a bad pressure switch. (Air and water acting differently on the switch). My spare new pump is acting the same way. They are identical models.
I have a bypass valve to cut the water heater off the system because I mostly use my Paloma gas HW heater. I can see it easily and it's dry.
Had the boat 23 years and have not had this problem before.
I don't recall having ever run out of water before, but this year I spaced and did run out. Problem seemed to start after that as I think back, but has not been very consistent.
Thanks for the posts. Mike
Air and water will act differently at the pump, but air farther down the line will simply compress. If your pump is cutting on and off and you can't find a leak, you may have a bad valve (or dirt) in the pump. With Shurflo pumps it's not that big a deal to replace the valve module (and they CAN fail). Been there done that. Look up the model you have and what part is needed, then order it. WAAAY cheaper than a new pump.
Then again it may simply be a bit of debris caught in a valve in the pump, more likely if you run dry I think. Take it apart and look, and go from there.
Then again it may simply be a bit of debris caught in a valve in the pump, more likely if you run dry I think. Take it apart and look, and go from there.
quote:
Originally posted by stmbtwle
Air and water will act differently at the pump, but air farther down the line will simply compress. If your pump is cutting on and off and you can't find a leak, you may have a bad valve (or dirt) in the pump. With Shurflo pumps it's not that big a deal to replace the valve module (and they CAN fail). Been there done that. Look up the model you have and what part is needed, then order it. WAAAY cheaper than a new pump.
Then again it may simply be a bit of debris caught in a valve in the pump, more likely if you run dry I think. Take it apart and look, and go from there.
I swapped out my old pump with my new spare Flojet. but did the same thing. Thanks
I don't have any type of expansion or accumulator tank on the system. But now that you mention it, I do need to revisit my hot water tank arrangement to make sure it's not operating like an accumulator. I didn't think to open the relief valve to see if any air escaped during my last inspection. Mike