Anchor Chain - Welding?

mixman

mixman

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A few years ago I added 60 feet of BBB chain to the 15 feet of chain that came with my pre-spliced 200' rode. I spliced the chain together with an oversized galvanized peened link. That peened link is really starting to rust now, well beyond surface rust. Is it possible to have galvanized chain welded for this purpose? My only other thought would be to remove the 15' of original chain and splice the rode/rope to the 60' of remaining. But I'd rather keep as much chain as possible.
 
A peened link will not be as strong as the BBB chain. I would splice the rode to tha 60' chain.
 
There's no reason you couldn't take it to a welding shop and see if it can be welded. The shop will know what to do about the fumes and you will have to use cold galvanizing paint where the zinc was burned off (and repaint from time to time).

I wouldn't think there would be much difference in holding between 60' and 75' of chain.
 
quote:
Originally posted by rnbenton

Will the weld go through your windlass?

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Is that a question for before or after it's welded? :-)

Ideally, yes. The chain is 1/4" I believe, and the windlass can take up to 3/8", so there's a bit of room (the peened link currently is a 3/8").
 
quote:
Originally posted by mixman

quote:
Originally posted by rnbenton

Will the weld go through your windlass?

Click to expand...


Is that a question for before or after it's welded? :-)

Ideally, yes. The chain is 1/4" I believe, and the windlass can take up to 3/8", so there's a bit of room (the peened link currently is a 3/8").

Click to expand...


LOL, I meant after the weld. I didn't know if doing so would add a "stiff" or oversized splice that a windlass might have trouble with.

I want to add about 50' of chain as well so I'm interested in how you do it. :)

Bob
 
Well, the peened link method is out as an option, that's for sure. I think the options at this point are to talk to a welding shop (I may call one shortly), to drop down to 60' of chain, or to purchase 100' of chain new and get rid of my rope rode (kept as a backup, along with the other 20 + 200' rode I carry). I'm never expecting to anchor in more than 10' of water, and if I do, I'd have to use my spare rode.

Hmmm. Decisions, decisions.
 
quote:
Originally posted by mixman

Well, the peened link method is out as an option, that's for sure. I think the options at this point are to talk to a welding shop (I may call one shortly), to drop down to 60' of chain, or to purchase 100' of chain new and get rid of my rope rode (kept as a backup, along with the other 20 + 200' rode I carry). I'm never expecting to anchor in more than 10' of water, and if I do, I'd have to use my spare rode.

Hmmm. Decisions, decisions.

Click to expand...


I'd like to have 100' of chain but I'm concerned both about the size of my rope locker as well as the weight.

Bob
 
There are galvanizing shops and they may know how to properly weld and regalvanize chain.

I have never trusted any type of repair link. None are as rust resistant as the chain and I also question their strength. Those quick links seem always to be made in China and who knows what quality procedures are in place in backyard foundries. I’m not betting our lives and boat on anything but the best I can find.

Rust is a real worry because what you see may only be part of the story. Surface rust in no big deal but sometimes rust penetrates the interior of the link and it may suddenly fail as seems to have happened to Pasal's swivel.

My answer for your question would be to buy new chain. Buy it as long as possible so that in future you could chop off the rusted working end or swap ends for an unused section.

Ground tackle never fails in good weather.
 
Bruce, I hear you. That's what I'm thinking too. I'll either go with reducing to 60', or increasing and going all chain.

Bob, I called a well respected local welding shop here in MD. They said it could certainly be done and fumes are not an issue. However, they didn't recommend as the heat of the welding process would remove some of the temper of the surrounding links and thus weaken the chain.
 
quote:
Originally posted by mixman...... I'm never expecting to anchor in more than 10' of water, .........
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That would be nice, wouldn't it?

In my part of the country, tide ranges are six feet or more so ten feet at low tide could be sixteen feet at high tide and ten feet at high tide could be four feet at low tide.

But what if you find yourself without power and having to anchor wherever you are?

I would either have the chains welded if you can get it done (a good welder can grind it so the link will pass through the windlass) or just go with sixty feet of chain and whatever line you already have. You don't want to be somewhere without power and drifting towards rocks or a bridge and having to change rodes to anchor.
 
Kurt has it correct. Welding on Load rated chain is never a good option. Can it be done, yes, for lawn ornaments and other decorations. Production high strength carbon chain is processed under very controlled guidelines.

Process variables are type of Filler metal, pre-heat temp, post weld hardening and tempering cycles. Galvanize (zinc) fumes are the least of your worries.
Great question to ask though before its too late.
Buy a new chain, you'll sleep better.
 
Bob,

Lap links have very low weight ratings. Much lower than shackles of similar sizes.
 
Oh well, the more I read the more I see a new 100' BBB chain in my near future. Oh well, what the heck, it's only about 75 lbs :)

Thanks Kurt.

Bob
 
I suggest longer if you have the room in the locker. 15' depth plus 5' to the roller and it is easy to need more than100'. longer gives much better catenary springing
 
quote:
Originally posted by pdecat

I suggest longer if you have the room in the locker. 15' depth plus 5' to the roller and it is easy to need more than100'. longer gives much better catenary springing

Click to expand...


Space in my rope locker is pretty tight so will probably just do the 100' chain and splice to my existing 150' of 3 strand rope. That'll give me all I could ever possibly need.

I'm like Kurt. Yes, I have anchored in deeper water but 99.9% of the time I'm in 15'-20' or less.

Bob
 
Use thing to connect two sections of chain:

599357.jpg


Galvanized-Steel Quick Links
 
Again, the working load is much less than BBB chain. 880lbs working load is what I read on that image, and then there's that clasp that could unscrew at an inconvenient time...
 
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