NorfolkSeaHorse
Member
- Joined
- May 21, 2002
- RO Number
- 8703
- Messages
- 1
On my 1971 Grand Banks Classic 36, (had for less than 2 months) I found that the forward 2000 GPH Rule bilge pump was trashed - didn't even draw a spark with a direct conection.
I replaced the pump with a new 2000 GPH (same brand) and float switch. What I DIDN'T do was take a picture of the peculiar wiring setup, coming from a 3 x 3 contact-contact strip with various wires to and from. Only one + and one - go "in", but theres a non insulated twisted copper wire on the center terminal that is perplexing; ONE of the wires from the old float switch went to this middle "I don't know what it is" lead. I changed this lead by putting the float switch in-line with the positive lead from the new pump. When I manually lift the float now, the pump hardly runs; the rear pump DOES run when I do this, and I did nothing with the rear pump connection.
The forward pump pump is a conventional 2000 GPH Rule with a positive and negative lead; the rear pump is a Rule Mate Automatic with the built-in float switch, with one negative and TWO positive leads. The leads from the rear pump somewhere change color under planks before thewy get to the terminal strip. (I am completely sopber as I write this, and when working on the pumps)
Does anyone have a link to where I can get a generic wiring diagram for this dual pump setup?? Fortunately, the boat is tight as a drum, but when I'm in 100 fathoms and hit a floating rock, I want the pumps to do what they should without me being down there with jumpers.
Sorry for the long-winded message, but this forum is great and I KNOW someone had a similar experience. I thought a Rule web site might have some data but couldn't find one, and I've searched every word combination for generic pump wiring diagrams finding nothing but ads.
The attached jpg is the terminal strip - incoming is simple - outgoing seems to have been engineered by Professor Irwin Corey.
Scratch that, I attempted to attach the small jpg but the same ghosts for the bilge pump wiring disabled my ability to attach!
THANKS!
Steve
I replaced the pump with a new 2000 GPH (same brand) and float switch. What I DIDN'T do was take a picture of the peculiar wiring setup, coming from a 3 x 3 contact-contact strip with various wires to and from. Only one + and one - go "in", but theres a non insulated twisted copper wire on the center terminal that is perplexing; ONE of the wires from the old float switch went to this middle "I don't know what it is" lead. I changed this lead by putting the float switch in-line with the positive lead from the new pump. When I manually lift the float now, the pump hardly runs; the rear pump DOES run when I do this, and I did nothing with the rear pump connection.
The forward pump pump is a conventional 2000 GPH Rule with a positive and negative lead; the rear pump is a Rule Mate Automatic with the built-in float switch, with one negative and TWO positive leads. The leads from the rear pump somewhere change color under planks before thewy get to the terminal strip. (I am completely sopber as I write this, and when working on the pumps)
Does anyone have a link to where I can get a generic wiring diagram for this dual pump setup?? Fortunately, the boat is tight as a drum, but when I'm in 100 fathoms and hit a floating rock, I want the pumps to do what they should without me being down there with jumpers.
Sorry for the long-winded message, but this forum is great and I KNOW someone had a similar experience. I thought a Rule web site might have some data but couldn't find one, and I've searched every word combination for generic pump wiring diagrams finding nothing but ads.
The attached jpg is the terminal strip - incoming is simple - outgoing seems to have been engineered by Professor Irwin Corey.
Scratch that, I attempted to attach the small jpg but the same ghosts for the bilge pump wiring disabled my ability to attach!
THANKS!
Steve