Blisters

RPM-inc

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What is involved in repairing (replacing?) the gel coat bottom of the hull? The gel coat is cracked everywhere, and I could peel chunks of the gel coat off if I wanted to. From the waterline down on the side of the boat is all blisters. The boat has never had bottom paint. It is a 1986 Sea Ray 268 Sundancer.

It is a shame, the boat is in great condition otherwise.
 
It basically needs to be strpped down to good glass, by sand or soda blasting. The hull then needs to be dried. After that the hull may have to be faired in spots. Then about ten coats of epoxy or vinylester barrier coat need to be applied. All it takes is money. I'd guess about $200-$300 a foot.
 
Peel and relaminiate, been there, done that. Peeling is done with a tool like a planer - hydraulic operated. Then it is sanded, relaminated, fared as needed. It ran $400/foot for a 40 foot boat.
 
Hmmmm...... so the boat in good shape is worth maybe 10K, and it needs about 6k+ in repairs.

This is my parent's boat. My dad passed and I am trying to help my mom sell it. The other day is the first time I have seen it up close out of the water since they bought it in 87. I couldn't believe the shape of the bottom.

I am thinking about buying it. Other than the bottom, the boat is in darn good shape. New camper tops, mooring cover and interior. Is there a more "temporary" fix to get a few more seasons out of the boat? Or what if I do nothing? I am sure it has been like this for at least a few years, right?

I take it the bare fiberglass is sucking moisture?

You would think the marina would have said something after they pull it for the season and
power wash the bottom.
 
Peeling with the carbide cutters, then drying (either tenting with dehumidifier and heat, or hot vacuuming) are the proper ways to attack the problem. Never sandblast the bottom of a boat. It leaves sand particles embeded in the laminate and these become a nidus for more blistering in the future. Soda blasting is OK, just for paint removal, but I have heard of poor technique in soda blasting causing damage to the laminate. The peel is controled in depth, and may just take gel coat, or gel coat and a layer of mat.

If the boat is badly damaged, it may require relamination of a layer of 6 oz cloth, as well as epoxy. (Epoxy is more resistant to water permeation than vinlyester is, so is prefered. Also secondary bonding with epoxy is better, than with vinylester resin) But drying the boat out is most important.

We were looking at a 34 footer yesterday which had a defective layer of mat under the gel coat on the bottom, and discussing if it was better to just fix the blisters, with epoxy, or do the peel/dry. The estimate was $20,000 or about $600 a foot when the bottom was peeled, dryed for several months and then a new layer of cloth laminated. The boat had the blisters repaired and was launched the next day!

The cause of osmosis/blistering is complex, but basically there is a semipermiable membrane--the gel coat, and there are some poorly catalyzed areas, poorly cured resin, defect in the laminate, particles in the laminate etc-and water gets under the gel coat. Osmotic pressure increases the amount of blistering. You can grind down the blisters with a 6" air grinder (If you are young and strong, you probably can use a 1 1/2 hp electric grinder, but it will be a lot of work. I would grind the entire bottom, get the gel coat off, open any blisters, then grind out the blisters with a die grinder with a 1/2 circle carbide router bit, until you are to dry solid laminate. Then relaminate the areas which you had to grind out, with concentric circles of fiberglass cloth and epoxy (I use West System). Never use polyester for filler, never use Bondo. After you have filled the defects, fair the surface with high density filler mixed in epoxy, and after faired, then you put on at least 4 coats of epoxy. It is quite possiable that you will get a number of years out of the boat. You can just go ahead and use it--at some place the fuel tank will have to be replaced. Exhaust risers probably have to be re-done if they have not been replaced in the last 3 to 4 years.

I am sorry to hear of your father's passing. That makes it a more emotional experience and maybe clouds your judgement. But your statement above seems to be objective.

I have a good friend who bought one of these exact same boats, for $10,000, fixed it up (cost about $5,000) and sold it a year later for $12,000. They are nice boats, and ride very nicely.
 
"I have a good friend who bought one of these exact same boats, for $10,000, fixed it up (cost about $5,000) and sold it a year later for $12,000. They are nice boats, and ride very nicely"

Are you saying that a $3,000 loss is good or bad?

G
 
I've always liked the 268 Sundancer. Maybe you should post a picture. Are the blisters a few isolated locations or over a specific region? I'm no expert but I've been told that if they are scattered it is not as big of a concern and a relatively inexpensive repair.
 
Hopefully these pictures will work. There are actually very few blisters. But the gel coat on the entire bottom of the boat is cracked all over.



 
hull3.jpg

hull2.jpg

hull1.jpg


Thanks everyone for the help.
 
Wow, I've not seen gel crazing quite like that. That hull is flexing, and the direction of the crazing tells you which direction. I think the stringers have failed on that boat as the flexing looks to be 90 degrees to the longitudinal.

As painful as this sounds, I'd pass on the boat. This comes from personal experience of fixing a blistered boat. It's a hell of a job and your going to find issues, in my opinon, once you pull that gel off.

Here's a personal example of what your going to see when you get that gel off. I have a feeling your boat might actually be worse.

http://groups.msn.com/pennyan/ghost.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=561

This was my boat and the gel was already off the boat (from a prior owner failed Bondo job). Plan on 6 months and every weekend. Even with your own "free" labor, you would be better off in a different boat.

Just my guess based on some experience in this arena.

bp
 
I had a 76 Uniflite "blister boat" that had been a DNR patrol boat. I was always grinding and filling blisters, but I never had them in the density that your photo shows. The cracks are puzzling. I'd grind one out to see if it goes into the laminate. Something's really bending that boat.
 
RPM-you might be better off trying to find a similar Searay that has a sound hull but is cosmetically challenged and transfer all the new stuff from your Dad's boat. I can't see an economical way to repair that hull and as others have said the stringers are probably shot also. You might get a fiberglass guy to take a look but...........
 
Thanks again everyone for their input. So the consensus is the stringers are probably mush?

I am not partial to this boat. I just want to get it out of my mom's hair. Is there a market if I parted this boat out? Like I said earlier, the camper top and mooring cover is almost new. Would all 268 Sundancers have the snaps in the same place? What the heck would I do with the hull? Should I just use it for another season or two and then worry about it?
 
"Should I just use it for another season or two and then worry about it?"

If the stringers are "mush" then the boat is not a structurely sound, you could hit a big wave and blow a hole in the bottom of the boat. If you can find out if the stringers are ok, then I would say yes,use it for another season or two and then worry about it. Also, if you find the stringers our sound, then use some body filler, then paint the bottom. My father had a 1945 Higgins that was made out of plywood (the bottom of the boat) the plywood started to delaminate in 1980,he used body filler for quite a few years and it held up very well.

Walter
 
blisters are one thing, cracks are another. there is a pattern here,it's not just a few spider cracks. as others have mentioned above, that hull is flexing, badly, pointing to the stringers.

if you can be sure the stringers are ok and the boat isn't going to fall apart, then use it for a few more years but this doens't look good
 
In Southern California, the standard blister treatment is to peel the hull.......in Arizona. Then leave it there (through the summer if possible) to dry it out. 6 months minimum. Then re laminate and gel coat the bottom before trucking it back to the coast.
It's hideously expensive.
For the value of a Sea Ray (any Sea Ray) forget it. People might invest the money in otherwise perfect 50'+ pedigreed classics, but......
If the stringers turn out to be ok, just paint the bottom and splash it. If not, sell it to a fool for whatever you can get.
 
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