Burned out alternator... Is it undersized??

I'd check the fridg. That would be your biggest draw. See/listen to the duty cycle. It may be running too much.

You probably burned out the regulator or diode trio if it's a delco type alt. Alt are able to output a large amount of current and the regulator keeps it down to your 63 amp rating. Take it to an alt shop and ask them to up the amps. I think it's just a matter of putting in a higher rated regulator. I upped mine to 100 amps...but I'd still get that fridge checked out.
 
quote:
Originally posted by Billylll

You would need a pair of ACR's to use both alternators to either both charge a battery bank or to charge 2 different banks from a single alternator depending on how you wire them. Yes they are charge or voltage sensing solenoids.
Bill

Click to expand...

I think a single ACR between the two battery banks would work; it does for me. If there are more than two sets of batteries, then additional relays would be needed.
 
Charlie, I think his frig is AC and runs off of a 700 watt inverter. That can be a substantial draw over time for a single battery.
Bill
 
Could be. My fridge would kill a single battery in less than a day and would probably ruin one in short order. If the battery is shot that could be the cause of the alternator problem.
 
Ancient History: My uncle (now 99!!!) had an Auto Electric shop. The kind we'd like to find today, that understands and actually fixes stuff. First ones out were MoPar systems. At first the things were a mystery, but they had lots of alternator failures. He and a buddy with a similar shop in a nearby town found that they could prevent repeat failures by replacing Regulator (a separate part in those early days) and Battery along with the same Alternator repairs they'd been doing. Their conclusion was that although the old DC Generators could attempt to charge a failing battery, an Alternator would try harder, and work itself to death trying.
 
Thanks for the replies. Just as a summary, I have a two engine setup, standard rotation (direction is changed on the leg on one side); new delco style alternators, new batteries for the house bank, good batteries on the start. Both engines are completely separated except for the ground. New two bank battery charger as well. The house side alternator is the problem.
Thanks
 
How about putting a house battery on each side with switches??
 
That would probably help the charging but constantly switching them would be a PIA.

The load doesn't seem to be that great but over time a fridge can kill the batteries. So after several hours on the hook the engine is started and the alternator is trying to charge a couple nearly-dead batteries, which might be what is overloading the alternator. Seems either more charging power is needed or a way to limit the charging current.

An ACR to the starboard battery would help, by allowing the starboard alternator to assist in the recharging.

Some means of limiting the charging current would protect the alternator(s), but I'm not sure how this would be accomplished. Is there any kind of adjustable regulator that would limit the output current to what would be safe for the alternator?
 
quote:
Originally posted by stmbtwle

That would probably help the charging but constantly switching them would be a PIA.

The load doesn't seem to be that great but over time a fridge can kill the batteries. So after several hours on the hook the engine is started and the alternator is trying to charge a couple nearly-dead batteries, which might be what is overloading the alternator. Seems either more charging power is needed or a way to limit the charging current.

An ACR to the starboard battery would help, by allowing the starboard alternator to assist in the recharging.

Some means of limiting the charging current would protect the alternator(s), but I'm not sure how this would be accomplished. Is there any kind of adjustable regulator that would limit the output current to what would be safe for the alternator?

Click to expand...


I don't know much about these things, but FWIW, Balmor is one mfgr of adjustable or settable voltage regulators.

http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|328|2289948|2289953&id=711619

(Simpler version:) http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|328|2289948|2289953&id=6468

But I'd think any appropriately-sized (marine?) voltage regulator should be able to automatically allow or limit output voltage to safe "normal" levels, no?
 
The voltage is regulated but the amperage is a function of the capability of the alternator. The alternator will pump out full output until the voltage of the battery reaches the Voltage setting of the regulator and cuts back output. If you have more battery capacity than the system was sized for, the alternator works at 100% longer than intended. "DUTY CYCLE" is the key word.

The easy way out is a larger alternator. The other alternative is a CURRENT LIMITER. This unit will reduce the load on your alternator but it will take a lot longer to charge your battery bank.

A larger alternator is not that expensive. Heavy Duty or Hi Duty are terms that discribe units with enhanced DUTY CYCLE capabilities. Visually they may have larger fans and fins compared with a stock or standard duty unit.
 
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