UPDATE, UPDATE! Making progress! First, got proper info about year, serial#s, rotations from Crusader in PA. Port motor firing order was wrong it is 12756348, distributor rotation is clockwise. Bought timing tab, boat starts and idles perfect. Friday going to set timing light up again to see if advance weights are working properly. Never felt this motor run this smooth. Either way it is time for another test ride.
cant get more than 2000 rpm from crusader
- Thread starter Capt. Joe
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borrowed from another site
There is no such things as reverse rotation distributors and oil pumps (for a small block Chevy).The cam lobes are completely different for reverse rotation, so you'll need a new cam and a normal chain drive. [Crane Cams makes a reverse rotation cam that uses a normal chain drive and rotates backwards. But the worm gear and the distributor gear are special, to drive the distributor and the oil pump in the proper direction. This is an aftermarket cam, most likely you won't have it.]Another difference (more difficult to correct) is the fact that the front and rear seals are different. If you reverse the rotation of the engine it will leak, guaranteed.
There is no such things as reverse rotation distributors and oil pumps (for a small block Chevy).The cam lobes are completely different for reverse rotation, so you'll need a new cam and a normal chain drive. [Crane Cams makes a reverse rotation cam that uses a normal chain drive and rotates backwards. But the worm gear and the distributor gear are special, to drive the distributor and the oil pump in the proper direction. This is an aftermarket cam, most likely you won't have it.]Another difference (more difficult to correct) is the fact that the front and rear seals are different. If you reverse the rotation of the engine it will leak, guaranteed.
Just remember to flip 1/2 the distributor wire flat connector over to TIME position to prevent any advance when setting base timing, and reconnect it to RUN position when done with that procedure.
Unlike many aftermarket replacement electronic distributors, the Delco EST's do not rely on mechanical timing advance,- it 's all nicely electronic. Plus, you can and should toss any ballast resistor which may have been in the system. .
GeorgeKohler
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Well, how'd the test ride go?
2ND Update - - - - Well, I give up! the distributor works, the timing is good, the fuel pump pressure was good, the ride was NO different. The only other idea the mechanic has is that the timing chain and gears in the front are off by a tooth. The front seal needs to be replaced anyway so that job is scheduled for early next week, my mechanic and I need a rest.
Looking at that timing gear doesn't sound like a bad idea. You said you did a compression test and it was good. Given that, and the timing set is OK...
...how about running it at idle with the valve covers off, and make sure every rocker and valve are moving correctly...?
I've tried to follow this discussion and I don't think you've tried that yet. If you have, I missed it. If you haven't it's minimally invasive. 454's used to pull rocker studs, you might have a rounded-off cam lobe, a bent pushrod... Somehow I still doubt there's that much damage. Low hours and all. Still, you can pull those covers, use a couple towels to corral the oil, and have another take on what it's doing.
...how about running it at idle with the valve covers off, and make sure every rocker and valve are moving correctly...?
I've tried to follow this discussion and I don't think you've tried that yet. If you have, I missed it. If you haven't it's minimally invasive. 454's used to pull rocker studs, you might have a rounded-off cam lobe, a bent pushrod... Somehow I still doubt there's that much damage. Low hours and all. Still, you can pull those covers, use a couple towels to corral the oil, and have another take on what it's doing.
To Bruce, first thank you and everyone for all the concern and ideas. The compression was one of the early thing we did. If you go through several of my posts you will see that we tried everyone's ideas and all of our own Again I'm ready for the loony bin.
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Many years ago my parents had a Chris Craft with the same issue I drove my father batty! Check everything plugs timing wires tune up everything that you have been through but then a friend in the marina with a good mechanical background tor it apart only to discover a blob of silicone more like a worm had found it way through the fuel lines how it made it past the filter no one knows but it was stuck in the hard fuel line just before the carb once removed the boat ran like a top never had another problem again. Today we can laugh about it but back then it was very frustrating!
Roger That, Cap'n. But, you can have Pressure and not Flow. The restriction Dave found was limiting fuel flow. On acceleration, 454 wants 25-GPH. Is there a filter in the carb inlet? Most Q'Jets have one. I think you said you've swapped carbs.
Also, weak fuel pump could produce Pressure but not Flow. We had a van that would lay down once it got to high gear towing the boat. Oddly, on acceleration in first and second, it was OK. Engine RPM was enough for pump output to exceed engine demand. Once it shifted to high, the pump couldn't keep up with engine demand, probably because RPM's dropped. Your boat is always in high. How hard would it be to swap pumps and see if the problem follows one pump?
Also, weak fuel pump could produce Pressure but not Flow. We had a van that would lay down once it got to high gear towing the boat. Oddly, on acceleration in first and second, it was OK. Engine RPM was enough for pump output to exceed engine demand. Once it shifted to high, the pump couldn't keep up with engine demand, probably because RPM's dropped. Your boat is always in high. How hard would it be to swap pumps and see if the problem follows one pump?
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I will throw out one more easy check.
Spray carb cleaner around the base of the carb, if the rpm changes you have a leak.
We had a similar problem.
On some Crusaders there is a large vacuum port at the bottom rear of the carb.
It has a rubber cap to seal it off.
Ours was cracked, rotted and leaked.
Found a piece of 3/8 fuel line, a bolt and 2 small hose clamps
Bingo, no more leak.
Just a thought as it worked for us
Good Luck
Spray carb cleaner around the base of the carb, if the rpm changes you have a leak.
We had a similar problem.
On some Crusaders there is a large vacuum port at the bottom rear of the carb.
It has a rubber cap to seal it off.
Ours was cracked, rotted and leaked.
Found a piece of 3/8 fuel line, a bolt and 2 small hose clamps
Bingo, no more leak.
Just a thought as it worked for us
Good Luck
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2007
- RO Number
- 26785
- Messages
- 234
I will throw out one more easy check.
Spray carb cleaner around the base of the carb, if the rpm changes you have a leak.
We had a similar problem.
On some Crusaders there is a large vacuum port at the bottom rear of the carb.
It has a rubber cap to seal it off.
Ours was cracked, rotted and leaked.
Found a piece of 3/8 fuel line, a bolt and 2 small hose clamps
Bingo, no more leak.
Just a thought as it worked for us
Good Luck
Spray carb cleaner around the base of the carb, if the rpm changes you have a leak.
We had a similar problem.
On some Crusaders there is a large vacuum port at the bottom rear of the carb.
It has a rubber cap to seal it off.
Ours was cracked, rotted and leaked.
Found a piece of 3/8 fuel line, a bolt and 2 small hose clamps
Bingo, no more leak.
Just a thought as it worked for us
Good Luck
FWIW-
Hmm- that sounds low to me but I am not an expert. I would have guessed fuel pressure would vary between ~ 4-7 psi for your carbed engines. This Crusader reference spec guide indicates 5-6 psi:
http://www.readbag.com/marineengine-discus-messages-12489-crusaderquick-20reference-290327
Curious-which manual were you referencing?