Caulking

rapscallion

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Need to re-and-re some topsides caulking. Deck joints, hatches, etc -- all above the waterline, mostly fiberglass-to-fiberglass, some teak-to-fiberglass. 3M 4200? Sikaflex 291? Boatlife? What do you use? What do you like/don't like?

Thanks.
 
any of the above but never silicone unless some idiot used it before.
 
Might be a bit pendantic with the terms, but caulking is as much of a technique as it is a product. When I think of caulking I think of process by which a seam is filled with a substance in the hope of stopping a leak.

Used in this capacity, there are precious few examples where caulking a joint is a good idea on a boat. If you want something to seal, you simply can't squirt something into a joint and hope it seals on its own accord.

Instead, you need to "bed" components if you want to seal them and that means capturing a sealant between two surfaces and using a mechanical form of fastening to keep the sealant in place. For this kind of bedding, I like 3M101 and Lifecaulk (Boatlife is the brand not a product). I'm just comfortable and confident in the lifespan of polysulphide based products used as a bedding. I would not turn down something like 3M 4200, the polyeurethane's are fairly well proven at this point where they are formulated primarily as a sealant.

You want to stay away from the more tenacious polyeurethane products like 5200 unless you absolutely need the nasty adhesive properties. In a bedding situation you already have a mechanical means of securing the joint and so neithe need nor want the adhesive.
 
Greetings,
Ghost has well described the difference between caulking and bedding. The overall aim of both is to minimise/eliminate water ingress (hopefully TOTALLY eliminate). I have had good success with 3M 4000UV for FG/FG and FG/teak joints.
For bedding purposes I use Dolfinite... exclusively. (http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=4400&familyName=Dolfinite+Bedding+Compound
It's definitely "old school" but it works for me.
Silicone, IMHO has no place on a boat at all. It's the devil's invention (for boats anyway). I worked with silicone compounds for 35 years and have grown to hate the stuff for MOST applications. Works great for toilet and bathtub and some IC engine use but that's about it. It's nigh on impossible to remove all traces and nothing sticks to it other than more silicone. OK, I'm opinionated, but that's me.
Peter
 
3M 101 is one of my favorites but I think 3M discontinued it. I can't find it anywhere and it's no longer shown on 3M's web site. Can anybody else find it?
 
Whatever you use, if it comes out of a caulking gun, I'd suggest masking closely both above and below the seam with good quality painter's masking tape. Lay in the smallest bead possible and then press the material into the seam using your index finger. If you've used too much, you'll pick it up with your finger or it will spill onto the tape. Once the caulking material has set up but has not become semi-hard, peel off the tape. That makes an almost invisible seam and while it's messy, is worth trying.

Bill
 
Oh no!!!! 3m 101 is gone. I had a feeling, it was getting harder to find. I'll have to really hoard whatever I have left.

Polysulphides are more expensive to produce. Especially when you can adjust the properties of a polyeurethane and achieve multiple products (sealant, adhesive) without a complete changeup in your plant.

I guess that just leaves lifecaulk now.

I might go to using butyl tape instead now.
 
Boat Life makes product - I think it's called Release - that will remove 5200 etc, but you can also use it when applying to clean up excess.
 
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