coolant in exhaust

I'm sure you got it, but do note Fish Guts advised TDC compression , not exhaust.
 
Yes I got that, thanks.
Need to load push rods with tension from spring while valve is closed.

This has always been a mystery for me but now I get it.
It's relatively simple and there is room for error (1/2-full turn)

For the first time, i feel very comfortable tackling this myself.

Hoping to have repair done for less than $1k with a lot of pride for DIY

Three weeks ago I hired someone and would have paid alot for this work.
Plus he was suggesting dropping In a crate motor. Luckily he was too slow so I jumped in myself

Thanks Boatered!
 
I'm one of those who had a new crate engine dropped in, three weeks and $9600 bucks later.... Insurance is a great thing, but I hate to have to use it.
 
quote:
Originally posted by WALSHIE

Thanks Fish Guts, that looks way too easy, lol.
I will do this with intake manifold off and return to #1 TDC for installation of the distributor.

3/4 Turn sounds like a nice compromise, right in the middle of half to full turn.
I will go with that.

Click to expand...


I usually set mine at 1/2 a turn down. They're not gonna come loose normally anyway, that's the whole point of doing this. I find the engine runs a bit more peppy then one turn down.

Next make sure you're on compression stroke TDC before dropping the dizzy in, or your dizzy will be 180* off.

Wait! If this is a 2001 motor, the procedure is different! These have new style roller lifters. I think you have to just torque them down! But, I'm not sure how much, or how to get there with the adjustment? You need to check the service manual to be sure.
 
I assume I have hydraulic lifters and not roller lifters. The push rods have holes for oil in them if that helps.

I re-assembled yesterday but did not fire it up. I ended up going with 5/8 (1/2 turn plus a little more) from zero lash.

When complete, I turned it over by hand to make sure nothing was hung up and it wasn't...now I'm a bit nervous.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4smOvNY1UbyOHVpTmhlODUwWFE/edit?usp=sharing
 
Based on research (not experience) I'm almost certain the "old school" method still applies.
 
hydraulic flat tappet or roller are adjusted the same.

roller lifter are preferable because they allow a slightly longer ramp opening/closing on the cam lobes giving longer intake valve opening...more efficient and power.
 
https://docs.google.com/a/simfininfo.com/file/d/0B4smOvNY1UbyVU45WWROZFJFNHc/edit?usp=docslist_api Job done! Ran her Sunday, was nervous about fluids and on edge. There was milk in oil but was it just leftover or was coolant stil bleeding into oil? Kept needing coolant was this due to air bubbles making their way out? Good news is dipstick was very consistent.

Changed oil again yesterday, added a cup to the coolant.
Made mental note of both fluid levels

Ran her for over an hour, on plane, 3800 RPM.
MISSION ACCOMPLISHED! oil and coolant no longer mixing. She ran great!

Thanks Boatered!

Like I told my 14yr old daughter who helped me, "see that baby, we saved enough to buy that center console you love"

Great feeling indeed!!!
 
Waytogo Walshie!
It can take quite a while to purge all the trapped air, so keep checking coolant levels after opening the main cap when cool enough. The thermostat has to open to circulate all the coolant of course, but ...if... your 2001 doesn't have a purge hose outlet on top you can temporarily remove the thermostat housing lid while still fairly cool to help speed up the purge.

You have waaay too few hours on those 2001's. IMO, this is shameful neglect. My 2003's have over 2000 and should have a lot more. Get to work!! :D
 
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