Diesel Fuel Winterization

CurrentSea

CurrentSea

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Last year my mechanic added Algae-X to tanks for the diesel fuel. I looked online and this is a conditioner, not a stabilizer, or are they the same.

Regardless, what do the diesel fuel boaters add to their tanks for winter?

Also does it make sense to change the diesel filters but not prime. In other words, let them sit empty all winter so Algae doesn't grown in the filters.

I was thinking this could be last thing I change and then don't prime them, prime in spring, start up and test.
 
Most do not add anything as diesel is quite good and stabilization if not stored over two years or more.
Algaecides should only be used if necessary and in the exact amount as defined as they can be corrosive to internal parts.
The diesel bugs will only grow at a water fuel interface and as such a well maintained tank will not have this problem.
So leaving filers with air in them is likely to cause more problems then filling them with decent fuel.
Some asphaltenes form when diesel is long stored and that can be combatted somewhat by a good conditioner/storage additive but again they are rarely needed the way we use our pleasure boats.
That said I have had good luck with both Stanadyne and Valvtec when bought in their formulation for Cetane and storage (As opposed to just cetane formulas)

I am sure you will be just fine with nothing though - Hoper this helps
 
For 25+ years I've taken the boat to FL or parked it in NJ. At the end of the season I leave the tanks with whatever fuel was left and have not yet had a fuel related problem.
 
Don't add anything diesel seems a lot more stable than gas.
 
I don't add anything as well so for so good. The first year I owned the boat I an algae problem I added Algae-X or something like it and in the spring I polished the fuel and since I have never added anything nor have I had any problems.
 
I treat my fuel all year with Biobor JF and also add Pri-D for the winter.
 
Why are people adding biocides to fuel as a standard practice?
 
It's like getting a flu shot, it's a preventative measure.

Biobor JF can also eradicate an algae issue if you have one.
 
Well I do know what you mean but there are no "algaes" in diesel fuel tanks.

There can be problems when water or biofuels are present with various microbes but killing them with a corrosive is not usually productive as the remains and the condition still exist and cause increased problems.
If you do have a fuel or filter loading problem the solution does not usually lye with chemicals - at times I have had both water and contaminants in older boats and the solution is to get rid of the problem not the symptoms.
For most all of my 25+ years of diesel boating I have not had to utilize biocides except in one case when it was used in combination with pumping and siphoning (extreme case.
Having owned many diesel pick-ups and an oil heated home I have had no reason to use biocides in them either.

Interestingly I do not add extra chemicals to my boats trans fluids, engine oil, coolants or anything like that.
IMHO - Using a good quality base product and avoiding amendments is the best approach and supported by most all manufactures regardless of engine make.

Hope this helps
 
Well using quality fluids controls that, but you can't control the quality of a on the water filling station where some kid left the cap to the tank too loose and something got into the diesel!

I know I had a issue with bad gas on my gasser boat.

For the diesel, I just hear stories so not sure what is true and what works!
 
"Well using quality fluids controls that, but you can't control the quality of a on the water filling station where some kid left the cap to the tank too loose and something got into the diesel!"

FWIW - If I suspect water in a tank and so not see it in the seps but want to make sure I pull the fuel gage and stick the tank with a water indicator - I do not add chemicals just in case.

I really try to never put fuel in my tanks from a vendor that does not have inline filters on their pumps.

If/when you have significant water in the diesel tanks remove the water through siphoning and use of water separators I suggest you do not use an emulsifier which will put it into semi suspension and potentially send it through the High pressure fuel pump and injectors - large problems can then occur.

FWIW - I successfully pulled over 10 gallons of water out of the starboard tank and decanted it by using soft copper line on a pump. The water went in because the fuel cap was left partially open with no "O" ring below the Gypsum conveyor at Haverstraw for better than a year. Pumped out almost all of the water and added a slight dose of biocide for the first fill only. After a few short hour filter changes on that tank the filters were fine the next 6 years and likely 6,000 miles usage.

If adding biocides to your machinery do not concern you that is fine as well.

Hope this helps
 
I've been adding Biobor for over 7 years and my diesel mechanic said he has never seen a Racor fuel bowl as clean.
 
I also add Pri-D which is a fuel stabilizer. Look it up, used commercially on bunker ships and storage tanks.
 
As usual lots of opinions but nothing conclusive.
Those that don't add, have no issues, those that do add, have no issues.
Last year my guy added $60 worth of Algae-X AFC-705 Catalyst.
Not sure if I plan to do the same now!

You have to wonder about boating sometimes.
It's sort of like card companies creating holidays to sell more cards!!

I guess there has been snake oil salesmen pretty far back. Love to see the proof but when you do, it's usually done by the manufacturer's of the product and then you have to take that with a grain of salt.
 
Indeed, and testimonials from people using some additive or other and not having problems are similar to smoker claiming they have no problems either. The lack of problems does not prove anything.
 
Well, Smitty pretty much told you his long term experience with diesel and I like such. :)
I think, we get, "lots of opinions, but nothing conclusive" because of the nature of the beast, A BOAT.

What I mean by that is, there are so many variables that need to taken into consideration when questions are asked like this. Audrey (Dave's) post is a perfect example. He polished the fuel, does not add anything and he is good to go. Keep in mind he has an older boat, my guess was polishing the fuel created stability and removed stuff he had going on. I say this because with my previous boat (gas) it always ran from day one on ethanol, so, first year or two not knowing jack, I put additives in for the winter. Six seasons later, never added anything and never had a problem. I also stopped filling the tank up with fuel, and again, never had a problem.

My point here is, when questions of this nature are asked, the answers seem across the board, and I am sure are correct for each person because of the variables.

In 2012 (first season with my diesel boat), I posted out of panic that I never treated my fuel, people here said don't worry about it, "you're good to go". They were correct and in 2013, I did nothing again. Well here we are at the end of the 2014 season and all is still well.

Bottom line, we all should do whatever makes us sleep at night :)
 
"Bottom line, we all should do whatever makes us sleep at night :)"

I agree Walter , and there are a few things I have done to take the mystery and variable out of diesel fuel and filter issues over the past 25+ years.

- I have vacuum gages installed to read the condition of my filters. This allows me to know when to change them, how long they lasted and track fuel use against that baseline for the future.
- Use the correct filter elements. This always sounds easy but the 'correct' ones for you may not be in the boat when you get it or even installed by the original manufacturer.
- Track fuel use (volumes) against filters plugging to avoid cruising problems and predict filter changes.
- Fuel up at locations that have some inline filtering. This again sounds easy until/unless you ask and find out that the large filter next to the pump has been empty for several years as they do not put elements in the housing.
- Changes and lube your fuel filler "O" ring seals. The most common way water finds it way into the tanks.
- Use water indictor paste to stick the tank if water is suspected. Only definite way to know if you have water.
- Add a bulk filter inline. If cruising long distances and or in areas of poor fuel using a bulk filter will save large amount of time , money and maybe a vacation as well.

Hope this helps
 
Smitty,
I was told about these gauges,think either here or on the SOC. I think I was told, that you remove the T-handle on the filter canister and the gauge screws in there. More info on that would be great, I have racor units , maybe also a site you can recommend to get such. Then once I do this, I will need for you to explain what the readings mean :)

Thanks
 
Screw all the additives.....just head south for the winter. :)
 
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