Dock Electrical

I would use 1 1/2" pvc to bring four #6 THHN wires, three #12, and three #14 wires to your powerpost site. Use the three #12 wires for a gfi protected service outlet, either by breaker or device. Use the three #14 wires for immediate or future lighting. I suggest wiring a 50 amp, 250 volt outlet for your boat and using an adapter instead of a single or double 30 amp 120 volt outlet. The 50 is much more secure then the 30.

Bring the water and cable down too.

I have a home built 2" x 8" treated post I will get some pics of if interested.

I agree the best scenario is for breakers to be at the post, but if you are diligent to turn off everything on the boat before unplugging, it is the same thing.

Billy K.
 
Note:......if you bring down any low voltage...CATV or phone wires......run them in a separate PVC pipe from your 120V lines.
 
quote:
Originally posted by Double D

Note:......if you bring down any low voltage...CATV or phone wires......run them in a separate PVC pipe from your 120V lines.

Click to expand...

+1 it's code
 
BillyK - Pics would be excellent.
I definitely want breakers at the outlets on the dock.. Even with the load "off" via the main breakers on board, I don't like the idea of the cordset being energized all the time.

My plan for the run (after consulting with a lic. electrician) was to run 4 #10 THHN lines to support the dual 30a requirements. He suggested running the two "hots" directly from the main panel rather than providing a single feeded and splitting was the best option. This would reduce the voltage drop over 60a and not require a #3 feeder (expensive). I may upsize for the few extra $$ and run #8 just for the added peace of mind. With the 1 1/4 conduit, there is ample fill left for another run for future expansion.

I already have a separate PVC run (original to house) for the lighting and the lift. But the suggestion of adding a separate 3/4 - 1" line while I have the trench open is a great idea. PVC is cheap.

Thanks for the suggestions/comments!

John

I toyed with the idea of adding a 50a 120/240. I'm not going to be in this house a year or two from now, so I'm just trying to address the current requirements.
Additionally, as much as I like the extra beef on the 50a connector, adding the Y-splitter puts more connections in the weather...

Per code, the existing 15a circuits are all GFCI protected.

After looking at the costs, I'm leaning towards using standard NEMA 3 enclosures. Isn't as compact nor sexy looking as the pedestal/pods but it looks like it would be 1/3 the cost.
 
Yes, you can switch the boat breakers off to be sure there is no current flowing before you disconnect the shore power cord. I find it easier to switch the dock breaker because I'm standing right next to it when I'm disconnecting it. Same for reconnecting. If you're leaving the cord connected because you'll be back that same day or you have another cord for travelling, it's very important to switch the breaker off so it isn't hot when it gets kicked into the water.

#10 wire supports 30 amps fine, but it doesn't account for any voltage drop for a long run. It would be better to oversize the wire if it's more than 50 feet or so from the house panel to the dock.
 
quote:
Originally posted by Double D

Note:......if you bring down any low voltage...CATV or phone wires......run them in a separate PVC pipe from your 120V lines.

Click to expand...


My bad, yes the water and low voltage wiring cannot be in the same conduit as the electric. Actually plumbing and electric cannot be in the same trench in some areas, you may want to check local codes.

The homemade power post I have does not have the means to install a buss and breakers. I guess you could install a disconnect, but if you want to have breakers you may want to buy a power post already set up for it. Obviously I am giving a brief overview as to what to use. There is much more to installing electric to code, then I have described.

Billy K.
 
quote:
Originally posted by BillyK

............... There is much more to installing electric to code, then I have described.
Click to expand...


Installing to code is good, no doubt. Some folks figure if nobody knows, it doesn't have to meet code. For me, my personal safety and the safety of my family and friends is foremost so I would go by code or better regardless of whether there's a chance of being inspected.

Using a commercial dock pedestal will add value to the property. A homemade setup on a 4X4, not so much. It may make future prospective buyers wonder what other shortcuts have been taken.
 
****Installing to code is good, no doubt. Some folks figure if nobody knows, it doesn't have to meet code. For me, my personal safety and the safety of my family and friends is foremost so I would go by code or better regardless of whether there's a chance of being inspected.

Using a commercial dock pedestal will add value to the property. A homemade setup on a 4X4, not so much. It may make future prospective buyers wonder what other shortcuts have been taken.****

+1

Yes....personal safety is #1

Secondly... if in the event of a fire...and the fire marshal/insurance adjuster find a electrical code violation or electrical work not inspected and signed off on.......this may leave a door open for a insurance claim DENIAL.

Do it right.....sleep at night
 
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