I do have the windlass with remote. But my configuration will not allow the anchor to freefall, so I have to get to the bow and get the anchor to the floor manually. Then I go back to the helm, let out my scope and just the boat between for and aft anchors, etc. It is a lot of work for one person!
Docking failure...
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I do have the windlass with remote. But my configuration will not allow the anchor to freefall, so I have to get to the bow and get the anchor to the floor manually. Then I go back to the helm, let out my scope and just the boat between for and aft anchors, etc. It is a lot of work for one person!
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"Just stinks that it had to happen in front of a lot of people on my dock!"
Best way to make new friends, assuming they assisted you.
Best way to make new friends, assuming they assisted you.
Yes, we each have to make those kinds of decisions at the time, based on the conditions that exist at the time. In my boating world, I may have a very strong current and no wind, or both or neither. By pausing, I can determine which is having a stronger effect on the boat. Often it is the current which is the culprit, but I may not realize that unless I pause to see how the boat will respond in neutral. And of course, there must be enough room from other boats, etc to try this.
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Hehehe, that sounds VERY familiar! A few weeks back I was taking my Trojan over to pumpout and gas up during the week. There were no marina staff around so I had to single handle it. The only spot I could fit in on the gas dock, was a spot where I had a moderate wind 45 degrees out of port to deal with. My plan was to get the stern cleat tied off to the dock on a line and then power the boat forward, run down and tie off a midships line. Now my boat's deck is about 6 feet off the water so I have to climb down the ladder to the swim platform, then get off there to tie the stern.
I'd get the boat up against the dock, but each time, before I could get *down* to the dock, the wind would shove me away from it. It must have been pretty funny watching me do this. So after two tries of running around like a monkey, I redid my approach, bringing it in very slowly and when I was still 5 or 6 feet away from the dock I dropped into neutral, headed down the ladder and had timed it so I reached the bottom right as the boat gently touched the dock.
It was pretty slick to see, but it was the third try! *laugh*Times like that are when I wish it wasn't a 38' footer with such a high deck.
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Hunh, I have the opposite experience than that with my throttles and shifters on separate sticks. I much prefer them separated too. I can set my RPMs where I want, then just use the shifters only to do my maneuvering. On friend's boats with combined sticks, I always end up using too much thrust when trying to make small adjustments. (mostly because they're Mercruisers and I don't think they shift very well, at least not compared to my Velvet drives)
Gary, that is what I finally did. I finally got to the waiting dock line before the boat got to the dock so I could loop the line around a cleat and keep the stern at the dock. From there I could get on the dock and haul the bow around and get it secured. Whew!
rich - there's at least one free docking simulator on online. with it, you can set wind and current speed and direction. it's much more fun smashing electrons than boats. unfortunately, the "boat" has only a single screw. if anyone knows of a docking simulator for twins, even one that is not free, i'd love to hear about it. if it doesn't exist, someone should create it. as far as lines are concerned, it's more convenient to keep them set to the proper length and leave them on the dock. on the other hand, if someone will be on the dock assisting, it's much easier for them if you can throw them a line. also, if you're heading over for fuel, pumpout, raft up, or visiting a slip other than yours, you need lines on the boat anyway. i do both. i keep lines setup on the dock and i have others that i setup (along with the fenders) just before docking. it gives me options if i need them.
Bruce - Already had one for twin screws called boatmaster that I messed around with this winter. I think I'm at the point now where actual experience is what I need (only one way to get that!). I do have extra lines on my boat. Our fuel dock has it's own lines that they throw to you (assuming the guys are there which they usually are). Pump out is done for us for free during the week right at our slip! How's that for service?
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Liz, how come your anchor doesn't go down with the windlass ? iv'e never heard of an up only windlass 
a long telescoping boat hook is invaluable when single handling a boat. it lets you reach up to like 12 to 15' and grab a line or allow you to put a line around a cleat.
I always tie up from the boat, i never get off unless i have at least two lines tied... in anything above 10 to 15kts, there is no way i can pull on a line to bring either the stern or bow back.
around here we only have cleats of pilings so it makes it easy. With the line tied to a cleat, throw it on the dock holding the bitter end, catch the cleat and secure the bitter end back on the boat. that's it. with alittle practice you can do that 6 to 10' away. once that spring is set, then you're all good. if the wind is blowing from the dock, you can even do that coming bow into the wind, perpendicular to the dock, since that the angle the wind will have the least impact on the boat, giving you the most time.
of course this is assming you can easily get to the bow or side.. which is why i'm so picky about boat having good access !
a long telescoping boat hook is invaluable when single handling a boat. it lets you reach up to like 12 to 15' and grab a line or allow you to put a line around a cleat.
I always tie up from the boat, i never get off unless i have at least two lines tied... in anything above 10 to 15kts, there is no way i can pull on a line to bring either the stern or bow back.
around here we only have cleats of pilings so it makes it easy. With the line tied to a cleat, throw it on the dock holding the bitter end, catch the cleat and secure the bitter end back on the boat. that's it. with alittle practice you can do that 6 to 10' away. once that spring is set, then you're all good. if the wind is blowing from the dock, you can even do that coming bow into the wind, perpendicular to the dock, since that the angle the wind will have the least impact on the boat, giving you the most time.
of course this is assming you can easily get to the bow or side.. which is why i'm so picky about boat having good access !
Pascal, remember that picture of my windlass setup I posted one time? At that time you asked me why my windlass was facing backwards [????]. It is so that I can have some chain since my windless will handle one or the other, but not both. So I have to get the line rolling around the capstan before I can leave the bow, etc. Here's the picture....
And yes, I wish I could access the dock from more then my stern. Even the forward cleats are inaccessible until I am on the dock.....no boat is perfect!
And yes, I wish I could access the dock from more then my stern. Even the forward cleats are inaccessible until I am on the dock.....no boat is perfect!
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i had the same windlass on my old 25, it has a free fall mode, right ? it's either power up or free fall. How big is your anchor ? it's weigth shoudl be enough to pull the chain off the deck around the capstan. when i installed that same windlass, i didn't think about a capstan so i doubled the chain, round trip, giving me about 6 ft. I upsized it which meant that even a large anchor didn't have enough weigth to pull it off the deck. what I'd do is go to the bow to push it just off the pulpit before anchoring... then control the boat from the helm and release from the helm. much easier that way.
the side "decks" on my 25 were about the same width, jsut enough for a foot... but it didn't have the bow railing going all the way aft, do you have enough room for your legs between the rail and the cabin side ?? how do you get to the bow, forward hatch ? i used to do that sometimes...
the side "decks" on my 25 were about the same width, jsut enough for a foot... but it didn't have the bow railing going all the way aft, do you have enough room for your legs between the rail and the cabin side ?? how do you get to the bow, forward hatch ? i used to do that sometimes...
Sounds like your 25' boat had a lot of similarities to my 22' one! Once I get the chain and anchor passed the roller, things will freefall, but not before. I have upsized the anchor; maybe I could find heavier chain.
Only my ankles can fit between the railing and the bulkhead. And the bowrail is too low in that section. I access my bow through the cabin and up out of the most forward hatch. Not the fastest way, but more secure. I'm not willing to go through the "walk thru" windshield. Again, nothing to hang on to.....
Only my ankles can fit between the railing and the bulkhead. And the bowrail is too low in that section. I access my bow through the cabin and up out of the most forward hatch. Not the fastest way, but more secure. I'm not willing to go through the "walk thru" windshield. Again, nothing to hang on to.....
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i never went thru the windshield either and i never understand why builders insist on it... i'd rather see a couple more inches on the sides where you can hold on a grab rail !
well, if you go to heavier chain, that will also increase the weight of teh section that's on deck and not make things any easier... or maybe a much heavier 2' section would give you enough weight to pull the remaining lighter chain.
it's incredible how a little detail like that can just be such a PIB !
well, if you go to heavier chain, that will also increase the weight of teh section that's on deck and not make things any easier... or maybe a much heavier 2' section would give you enough weight to pull the remaining lighter chain.
it's incredible how a little detail like that can just be such a PIB !
While we're on the subject of windlasses... With a single screw, shoal draft and lots of windage I've been in a position where I've had to drop the anchor in a hurry to get the boat under control more than once. My current "windlass" is just a rope drum and I'm thinking of upgrading to a Lewmar Pro1000 Freefall. It'll take rope and chain but as Liz has experienced it's not likely that my anchor will freefall from the stowed position. Does anyone know if the Lewmar windlass will back out the chain or is it ONLY freefall; in which case I might be better served by a NON freefall model??? Thanks.
boathandler
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Try pre-lowering the anchor to just above the water's surface. Then, position the boat and lower the rest of the way.
That's what I do now; but it means leaving the conn to do it. I can USUALLY predict when I'm going to need it (but not always), and it gets really wild sometimes with the boat doing about 3 kts sideways and no room to turn, and no deck gang either.
Doesn't answer my question though, about the specific windlass.
Doesn't answer my question though, about the specific windlass.
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I think the issue of the anchor not releasing on its own need to be addressed by the anchor and/or roller setup... if the anchor doens't release, it's because the geometry and/or weigth balance is wrong, the windlass doens't have much to do with it. it's simple, you just need enough weight in the anchor itself so that it slides off and pulls whatever rode you have.
if i release the chain off the windlass and route it around the rope capstan, the anchor has enough weigth to slide off and pull the chain out of the locker.
a power down windlass is not going to be of any help when you need to drop the hook in a hurry, a freefall will be much faster. When i anchor in stronger breeze in exposed water, 15 to 20kts+, i go to the bow and release the chain manually, around the rope capstan, sometimes even pulling it manually as fast as possible out of the locker. Dumping the chain fast brings as much weight to the bottom as possible and lets my Fortress dig in whereas if i power down it jsut skips on the bottom, the flukes pick up grass and mud and it never sets. maybe not be an issue with steel anchor but if you need the hook down NOW, freefall is the way to go.
tweak your roller to get enough weight ahead... maybe add a something to prevent the anchor from movign too far aft on the roller.
if i release the chain off the windlass and route it around the rope capstan, the anchor has enough weigth to slide off and pull the chain out of the locker.
a power down windlass is not going to be of any help when you need to drop the hook in a hurry, a freefall will be much faster. When i anchor in stronger breeze in exposed water, 15 to 20kts+, i go to the bow and release the chain manually, around the rope capstan, sometimes even pulling it manually as fast as possible out of the locker. Dumping the chain fast brings as much weight to the bottom as possible and lets my Fortress dig in whereas if i power down it jsut skips on the bottom, the flukes pick up grass and mud and it never sets. maybe not be an issue with steel anchor but if you need the hook down NOW, freefall is the way to go.
tweak your roller to get enough weight ahead... maybe add a something to prevent the anchor from movign too far aft on the roller.
I have had similar situations: when I suddenly couldn't put the boat into forward or reverse; or when the engine died and I was along a rocky levee with winds +25 knts.
For that reason, I always carry my stern anchor in the cockpit. I can quickly put that one overboard to stop the boat from hitting the rocks, then I can either get the bow anchor down and set or I can walk the stern anchor forward and tie off on a forward cleat. That allows me time to get things under control quickly. I consider having a spare anchor and rode available in the cockpit is a safety issue, especially when boating alone. Now I doubt that would work on Pascal's boat [53 ft], but it does on mine [22 ft]! Your mileage may vary......
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i agree.. i used to carry a full size anchor, with chain and rode in the cockpit of my 25 although you don't want to do that on a smaller outboard boat where stern anchoring is a recipe for disaster but on a 20ish epress with higher stern that's fine.. as long as the anchor is heavy enough to hold the boat stern to.
although you don't want to do that on a smaller outboard boat where stern anchoring is a recipe for disaster but on a 20ish epress with higher stern that's fine.. as long as the anchor is heavy enough to hold the boat stern to.