Vic, is there any fool proof test to tell if flashing amber light is a result of bad fuse block? Did an acid wash a month or so ago. Voltage is good to unit. I think I either replaced fuse block earlier this year or removed, cleaned up & replaced. Either way, blinking stopped at that time. Added salt; doesn't stop blinking. Am considering doing another acid wash this w/e.
Electra-San blinking amber light
- Thread starter Bob J
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- Feb 28, 2007
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Bob,
Vic is heading to the Annapolis show as of this evening, so I'm not sure when he'll be able to get back to you.
How old is your unit? Mine's and Electro Scan and I don't have an amber light. But that sounds like a "low amp" warning. At some point you just have to suck it up and put a new electrode pack in it. You can either take/ship to Raritan and they can do it, or you can do it yourself. To be honest, I just did mine about a month ago and it really wasn't that bad (getting all 14 or so bolts out was the worst part).
Vic is heading to the Annapolis show as of this evening, so I'm not sure when he'll be able to get back to you.
How old is your unit? Mine's and Electro Scan and I don't have an amber light. But that sounds like a "low amp" warning. At some point you just have to suck it up and put a new electrode pack in it. You can either take/ship to Raritan and they can do it, or you can do it yourself. To be honest, I just did mine about a month ago and it really wasn't that bad (getting all 14 or so bolts out was the worst part).
mixman, I happen to know there are 2 things that can cause the amber light to blink. Low voltage or low salt can cause this situation. It is definitely not low voltage. Low salt can be easily rectified. Off the top of my head I can't be sure I have this correct but on panel it actually states Slow blink = low salt; fast blink = low voltage or visa versa. Thinking back as I type this; I think the red light can/will glow if fuse block goes bad. It reads as if a fuse has blown but it's just a bad connection on block. I did replace electrode a couple years ago.
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2007
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I think we're gonna have to wait for Vic to get back online to answer you. I just don't know those older systems. My most recent issue was low amps, which is usually caused by low salt or a bad electrode pack. I've got a text display that tells me what the voltage and amps are. So Vic called it correctly and the new electrode pack fixed it.
The bottom line is if you've got an older "Lectra San", my comments aren't worth spit. I don't know those units. Sorry. I bet Vic will check in when he gets time in Annapolis. If not, I'll drive 45 minutes, buy him a beer, and loan him my laptop
The bottom line is if you've got an older "Lectra San", my comments aren't worth spit. I don't know those units. Sorry. I bet Vic will check in when he gets time in Annapolis. If not, I'll drive 45 minutes, buy him a beer, and loan him my laptop
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Hi Bob, I'm back.
An amber light indicates it is going into the extended cycle because the salt percentage inside the treatment unit "isn't quite up to snuff." So it runs the treatment cycle for a longer period of time, trying to generate an adequate amount of disinfectant to treat the sewage from the salt that is available in the water inside the tank. It can extend the cycle up to 100% or any fraction thereof (4.5 minutes total operation from start to finish). A slow-blinking amber light will be displayed during this time. If, after running twice as long, it still can't generate enough disinfectant from the available salt, it will shut down, displaying a slow-blinking red light.
How to correct: 1) Add a shot glass or two of salt to the toilet before each flush. The water is getting colder now, and isn't as conductive.
2) Do the muriatic acid treatment to clean the electrode plates inside. You may have a mineral (calcium) buildup on the plates.
3) Replace the electrode pack.
An amber light indicates it is going into the extended cycle because the salt percentage inside the treatment unit "isn't quite up to snuff." So it runs the treatment cycle for a longer period of time, trying to generate an adequate amount of disinfectant to treat the sewage from the salt that is available in the water inside the tank. It can extend the cycle up to 100% or any fraction thereof (4.5 minutes total operation from start to finish). A slow-blinking amber light will be displayed during this time. If, after running twice as long, it still can't generate enough disinfectant from the available salt, it will shut down, displaying a slow-blinking red light.
How to correct: 1) Add a shot glass or two of salt to the toilet before each flush. The water is getting colder now, and isn't as conductive.
2) Do the muriatic acid treatment to clean the electrode plates inside. You may have a mineral (calcium) buildup on the plates.
3) Replace the electrode pack.
Thanks Vic! I plan on doing an acid wash before winterizing. What's strange is; green light will flash by itself for maybe 45 seconds & amber light will come on erratically afterwards. On, off and then off for period of time; no set pattern.
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The amber light doesn't come into play for the first 35 seconds the machine is on. After 35 seconds, it switches into the second cycle when the macerator is running and the electrodes are activated. This is when the heavy load is applied to the system. So a green light for the first 30 seconds or so, is normal. Then when the electrodes are activated and the heavy current draw takes place, is when you'll see the lights sometimes change color. Alternate flashing between green and amber indicates that the salt percentage inside the treatment unit is marginal. When it stays on a steady slow-blinking blinking amber (once per second), the salt is too low. And when it goes to a slow blinking red, then shuts down after 5 seconds, means that there isn't nearly enough salt inside, or that the electrodes are dirty - or have gone bad. The slow blinking red light will stay on after the machine shuts down, telling you that it never completed the last cycle, and that something is wrong. Pressing the "R" button will reset the system, but it will probably short-cycle again.
A steady red light, not blinking, indicates a blown fuse. This is rare. The most common situation is a slow blinking amber (or red) light.
A steady red light, not blinking, indicates a blown fuse. This is rare. The most common situation is a slow blinking amber (or red) light.