Emergency start switch and battery isolator

D

DUSTCUTTER

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I no longer hear the solenoid click when I energize the emergency start switch. What would cause this? Is this is battery isolator problem? Is there a way to check the battery isolator?

Ron
 
Test the switch and then test the solenoid. Look for loose and/or bad connections at the switch and solenoid.
 
+1

Either you have a wiring issue as above or a bad solenoid.
 
When I hit the emergency start switch, I blow the port side breaker. Whats going on here?

Ron
 
Why not just tell us what its not doing?
Guessing its a twin. each engine should have its own battery and the emer start is used to start and engine ONCE then you replace the battery NOT CHARGE IT.
 
Boat has twin engine. When I energize emergency start switch, the port engine breaker blows. I used to hear the solenoid pull in, is there a way to check this?
 
Why are you using the parallel solenoid? Just to test or does one of the engine doesn't crank?

If either engine starts fine with its own battery (bank) then the issue is with the solenoid itself. Start by checking the wiring. Which side powers up the solenoid? Is it th port side?

It s kind of hard to suggest anything without knowing what kind of boat, engine, etc...
 
Solenoid blows fuse = replace solenoid.
If it doesn't energize after replacement the battery source it is hooked to is bad.
Bill
 
New batteries installed. I will check solenoid this weekend. Also output of battery charger. Is there a way to check a battery isolator? Vessel is merc powered ( gas ) searay, inboards.

Ron
 
An isolator can be checked with an ohm meter but you need to disconnect all power to it. It is basically a large dual diode with a common post and two isolated ports. You should get no continuity between the 2 battery posts. You should get continuity between the charge post and each battery post (the same direction) and no continuity in the opposite direction when reversing the positive and negative leads. Use your ohm meter in the diode position.
Bill
 
Just got back from the boat. Checked solenoid, found it to be bad. Replaced it, emergency start back to normal. Battery charger checked per instruction manual says to disconnect ground, and use meter between ground and positve. No out put noted. I think I have a blown diode. I pulled the charger and hope to get the charger bench repaired by Friday and back in the boat. Many thanks for the isolater information. I will test this coming weekend.

Ron
 
quote:
Originally posted by Billylll

An isolator can be checked with an ohm meter but you need to disconnect all power to it. ..............
Click to expand...


Assuming that it actually is an "isolator" not a battery combiner. Obviously you know the difference, but not every body does. The two are often confused.

Don't just disconnect the power, you have to disconnect the actual cables or you could read through another circuit.
 
Bench test charger, 60 amp, 4 bank. No out put from transformer. All diodes ands fuses checked ok. AC in ok, nothing coming out. Time for a new charger. I will check out battery isolator this coming weekend. Thanks again for everyones help.

Ron
 
quote:
Originally posted by DUSTCUTTER

Bench test charger, 60 amp, 4 bank. No out put from transformer. All diodes ands fuses checked ok. AC in ok, nothing coming out. Time for a new charger. I will check out battery isolator this coming weekend. Thanks again for everyones help.

Ron

Click to expand...

Some chargers are smart enough to turn themselves off if there is no battery connected (or if the battery is defective). Before you toss it, see if it will attempt to charge your car's battery.
 
quote:
Originally posted by DUSTCUTTER

Bench test charger, 60 amp, 4 bank. No out put from transformer. All diodes ands fuses checked ok. AC in ok, nothing coming out. Time for a new charger. I will check out battery isolator this coming weekend. Thanks again for everyones help.

Ron

Click to expand...
Did you measure any AC voltage (110VAC) at the input terminals of the transformer in the charger?
This sounds like a Ferro charger if it has a full size AC transformer. Most of the modern chargers use switching supplies there would only be torroids or round PC board transformers in it.
Bill
 
Ron,
What is your emergency start switch? Is it a remote starter switch or separate ignition switch?
 
Emergency start or a parallel switch allows you to use the port battery to start the starboard engine and vice versa.

Transformer show AC voltage in nothing out. I would assume that one of the windings is broken.
It is a ferro charger. It has given many years of duty. I have no idea what caused failure.

Ron
 
You can add a remote starter either temp or permanently mounted by connecting a push button switch to the two small connectors of the 'slave' solenoid. You can use it to spin the engine from the engine room(with ignition off) or use it to start the engine with ignition/start switch on 'ON' position.

You can get the remote switch at Harbor Freight but I would put heavier gauge wire than the 16 ga that's on there.
 
quote:
Originally posted by jtybt15

You can add a remote starter either temp or permanently mounted by connecting a push button switch to the two small connectors of the 'slave' solenoid. You can use it to spin the engine from the engine room(with ignition off) or use it to start the engine with ignition/start switch on 'ON' position.

You can get the remote switch at Harbor Freight but I would put heavier gauge wire than the 16 ga that's on there.

Click to expand...

Charlie he is talking about a cross over high current source switch something totally different than what you are talking about.
Bill
 
quote:
Originally posted by DUSTCUTTER

Emergency start or a parallel switch allows you to use the port battery to start the starboard engine and vice versa.

Transformer show AC voltage in nothing out. I would assume that one of the windings is broken.
It is a ferro charger. It has given many years of duty. I have no idea what caused failure.

Ron

Click to expand...


Disconnect the wires and check the windings with an ohm meter. It's easy, no need to "assume".

On the other hand, why not toss it and invest in a modern smart charger? You'll be far better off. Think of it as an investment to prolong the life of your batteries.
 
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