Engine room refit - Expen$ive!!

S

stevenp

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Apr 28, 2010
RO Number
32102
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104
It is unbelievable how much money this is costing me. Seacocks and thru hulls were not done correctly by the builder; $500 to do it right. Stringers and transom redone; probably $2k in materials. Found out I need all kinds of tools I didn't already own; a good $1k+. Fuel tank has minor corrosion; I'd be a fool to not replace it while the engine is out right?, $700. Might as well replace all the hoses; probably $250. Might as well repack the rudder and shaft stuffing boxes and replace stuffing box hose, and replace the cutlass bearing, and while I'm at it replace the shaft coupling; another couple hundred bucks. New bilge pump, new blowers, oh and I should probably buy that super duty Trident 4" blower hose so I never have to do it again; another $1k.

And this is only one side of the engine room! I still have to do the other side in the fall/spring!

B.O.A.T.T. Break out another TEN thousand!!

It's worth it, right? Peace of mind? A blinding white epoxied engine room that I will be able to just stare at and admire? Also on a positive note, I am learning a lot by doing all of this myself.
 
BUT.....Think of all the money you're saving on fuel!!!!! ;)
 
Is this your 1986 boat listed in your profile? What's wrong with these things the vendor did 28 years ago? Also, I wouldn't bother with the 1k blower hose upgrade, but that obsviously isn't all of your costs.
 
Most of the stuff was done right, but things are old and need to be repaired.

Using the Trident blower hose is only about a $50 upgrade. My point is all of these little things add up though. When you start peeling back the layers on a big project there's sometimes no telling where you'll end up. Plus, I just wanted to vent a little bit.

Here's a picture of the 1-1/4" seacock. Mismatched threads. No flange. A piece of pipe for a barb.
 
I cringe when I see those gate valves like the ones that came with my Phoenix . Had them all ripped out and replaced with quality heavy-duty cast bronze ball valves w/ HD handles and flange after discovering that nothing closed when the handle on the gate valves was turned down. They were a sinking waiting to happen.

Steven- Might as well replace the engine while it's out , no? Did you check the shaft for scoring? As long as you are upgrading the seacocks, how about scoop strainer thru-hulls that have handy access doors?
Slotted: http://www.jamestowndistributors.co...onze+Slotted+Hull+Strainer+With+Access+Door++ ,

...and perforated type http://www.jamestowndistributors.co...e+Perforated+Hull+Strainer+With+Access+Door++

Oil change pump hose & connection to the pan drain plug hole, if you don't already have that?

$$$$$$ !
 
That valve is in much better shape than mine was when I replaced it. Mine literally crumbled into pieces.
 
If you hire it done, take it, we do it when it needs it.
 
what a great time to add some much needed lights in the engine room !

RWS
 
That beautiful white engine room is amazing. I even painted the engine white. As you start replacing stuff, think how you can improve on the Mfg. Remote oil and fuel filters and that oil extraction idea like sandy mentioned. Is there a way to make access easier to the outboard side of the engines.

It'll be fun and very satisfying when it's finished.
 
Been there done that only 2 new engines, transmissions, V drives all rubber, sea cocks, new paint and 100% replacement of all rubber and wiring upgrades add System View monitors and you think your boats going to be expensive?
I think your getting away cheap.
Bill
 
The single most expensive phrase in boating is undoubtedly "while we're at it'.
 
Appreciate the suggestions. Keep them coming.

Remote oil filters are already installed. I'm a bit hesitant to add the oil change pump hose because 1) I don't mind extracting it through the dipstick, and 2) there are currently no leaks and adding fittings always runs the risk of introducing leaks. I realize that an extraction hose gets that little bit of oil on the bottom of the pan that you can't get otherwise, but does it really make that big of a difference either way if the block is nice and warm from running a full day?

Shafts look good by the way. Very little scoring, about .002" per side.
 
I use my oil extractor to both drain and fill.

Installed it at the very first oil change after purchase in 2001

using 1 gallon jugs in the lazarette, its an easy, quick and CLEAN task.

RWS
 
Yeah, you don't actually need a valve. Just a fitting and run the drain hose above the level of the oil in the pan...and a little more so you have easy access. Stick a 3/8" rod in the end to keep out debris
 
Just thought I'd write an update. I went through with the project and finished it less than two winters and didn't miss a single day on the water. I spend so much time poking around in there now during the season watching things run. What a great learning experience. Glad I did it.
 
Great job , Steven! Are you now concerned about using the boat and maybe getting a spec of dirt or oil in that beauty of an engine room? :D I bet that room glows in the dark. Waytogo. Now if you just had home-engineered stainless riser/elbows, Charlie would probably offer to adopt you.

At 1st glance at the last pic I was a little concerned with not seeing a slightly flexible hose section on both ends of the mufflers, but then I realized the mufflers appear to be Sheridan(?) Marine rubber mufflers that would not likely stress crack at that aft connection to the through-pipe. Are they pretty effectively quiet? I'd think the rubber "give" might help dampen sound waves of the wet exhaust compared to a stiff f/g one. .
 
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