Engine sea cock handle sloppy to rotation

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Kevdon22

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Apr 16, 2012
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32964
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Last fall when I was trying to winterize an engine before hauling, when I pulled off the hose from the closed raw water sea cock, there was sea water leaking past the sea cock so I re connected the hose and winterized the engine while on blocks.

I planned on replacing the valve but today I found that the handle, to close the valve was loose and rotated about 10 degrees before applying torque and engaging the stem. It appears that the stop on the valve is preventing full rotation/closure probably due to wear/deformation after 15 years of operation.
I could not remove the handle for inspection since I did not have the right wrench on board.
I wanted to see if the problem was due to local deformation of the slot on the stainless steel handle or the portion on the stem that the handle engages with.
I was wondering if anyone has seen this problem since if it is the handle possibly I could get a new one. I suspect the deformation is on the stem side since it is probably softer metal, and repair not easy.
Comments appreciated.
 
I ve seen it, usually it s the hole in the handle getting "Ovalized"

In a bind you can use a pair of vise locks but that may damage the shaft. Or the right sized box wrench will work too
 
A common problem often caused by the stainless handle rounding the seacock shaft. It has long been my opinion that most handles are too narrow for the shaft and should have a wider foot print to spread the force.
I think if I had it to do over when installing new seacocks I would try to add a second handle if it would fit.
Now that I think more about it if Pascal is right a new handle would improve your situation. If I'm right a second handle would move the force point to a new spot on the shaft. Take the handle off and see whats up. Perhaps a spacer washer might push the handle out far enough to extend the life.
 
Don I had one that seemed to be frozen & was afraid I'd strip the handle slot. Removed handle & hose; sprayed some BP Blaster down to ball & let it soak on ball. If you can hit it from underside as well; that wouldn't hurt. Kroil oil is very good as well. If there's no rush; let it sit overnite & do it again. When you're ready to try to turn shaft; I would use an adjustable wrench on shaft. Be sure it's snugged up on shaft so as to not round flats on shaft. If you go this route; let me know how it worked.
BOB J
 
As Pascal notes, it is often just the replaceable handle getting worn on the lighter-duty seacoccks, sometimes from not being kept fastened tightly. But, if this is the thin stainless handle type seacock, I'd suggest the long-term reliability factor could be increased by switching out to a good quality heavy duty flanged seacock with a HD cast bronze handle. Then if necessary when the valve has not been lubed & exercised enough , the use of a short section of pipe over the handle to increase leverage is less likely to cause harm, and the valve will cooperate in an emergency.
 
Thanks All,
I am hoping that the hole in the handle is the problem and a new handle will fix. I agree that the handle is probably too thin and may have deformed the SS handle rather than the valve stem although I suspect that the softer stem would likely be the culprit. Maybe a new position at the contact point via a washer will work. It seemed to me that the rotation stop along with the sloppy hole is the culprit.
The valve has been hard to turn in the past and since my hands are relatively weak, I have used a short cheater to turn. It does turn relatively easy now, I think maybe because marine growth on the ball has been knocked off.
I have replaced other ball valves before and noted that barnacles form on the ball which probably affect ability to close properly.
Exercising the valve frequently is probably a good idea.
Will update when the handle is removed.
 
Thought I would update the action I took to replace the 2 engine seacocks.
Close inspection revealed that the handle was not worn, but the bronze portion of the stem was deformed probably due to the excessive force required to activate the valve.I was able to improve the operation with WD-40, but was not comfortable.
A mechanic replaced two-1-1/4" valves for $250 including parts and labor before launch.
The safe thing to do!
 
If the new ones match and operate properly, then that sounds like a good deal.
 
S
Judging just from the installed price, it sounds like you probably replaced with same relatively lightweight type compared to the HD cast bronze flanged seacocks with good thick cast bronze handles.

But very good to have any new ones in there that work OK now. I'd just suggest checking ofen to make sure the thin handles fastener remains tight. Any looseness at all will promote wear and permanent slack as on the last one. If you do happen to run into the same problem in the future , a pair of visegrips will allow temporary full closure until the valve can be replaced.
 
I also think that frequent exercising would go a long way to keeping the operating forces from getting too large.
Since the boat is 15 years old and the valves were original, I think I god my money's worth
 
quote:
Originally posted by Kevdon22

I also think that frequent exercising would go a long way to keeping the operating forces from getting too large.
Since the boat is 15 years old and the valves were original, I think I got my money's worth

Click to expand...
That's seems like a great price. When I had the 1993 Mainship SB40 re-power I had all new heavy duty sea-cocks , clamps and hoses replaced.
 
Thanks for the update. I always suspected that those SS handles are too narrow for the shafts. Since you replaced them can you add the old handle to the new using two handles to double the surface area.
 
Then there is the likely cause of the handle being distorted. Lack of use & the forcing of the stiff ball cock (clean up your minds).

Far too often seacocks are forgotten, buried deep in the bilges where they are difficult to reach. When the time comes when one is needed to be closed it is seized or very stiff. If I am not on the boat overnight, seacocks are closed. This would translate into operating them at least once a week. Never had a deformed handle problem as seacocks were always easy to operate.
 
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