Eurothane wood sealer

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dmunneke

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I'm doing a pine door. Stained and usued a general purpose Eurothane sealer. I put it on rather thick and it doesnt seem to loose that tacky feelintg even after 3 days. Any ideas ?
 
Have a couple ideas.

Were the stain and urethane topcoat compatible?
Sometime you run into these issues.

Did you allow the stain to completely dry and wipe off any excess stain before top coating?

All(solvent base urethanes) cure by means of solvent evaporation. If you applied a thick coat, it's going to form a surface skin and not allow the underlying film to dry for several days. Basically, you're sealing the surface and trapping solvent below the surface.

Bob
 
I think they are compatible.. Maybe I better sit tight for a couple more days..
 
Is the door in a cold or damp garage/basement, etc? That will slow down the curing. Put it in a warm, dry area of the house, if possible.
 
well its been in the house for a couple weeks and its still tacky and a bit smelly.. Am I going to have to sand this stuff off and try something else !!! Drag..
 
How old is the urethane? If really old; solvent could have evaporated even tho container was closed. I store all my paints & coatings upside down. Helps prevent evaporation IMO.
 
Good luck trying to sand it off, you will go thru a load of sandpaper because that wet finish is going to load up your paper as soon as you move the sandpaper across it. Bob may be right, could be old finish. I would buy a fresh can of new product and apply it right over what you have on there, and that should bond with the coat underneath and also cure , leaving with a nice hard sandable surface. Give another sanding when it cures, and then give it a final coat. But if you do not want to take a chance on that method, get some paint stripper to get the urethane off. Let us know how you make out.
 
I wouldn't gamble putting new over old. If it should work, all well & good. If it doesn't; you have now put add'l work into it & still have to remove even more urethane which is thicker yet !! I would definitely go with a stripper over sanding only.
 
Yeah.. Its a 5 year old can I had in the basement.. Screw it maybe I'll just buy a new door and chuck this one.. for 100 bucks seems like a helluvalota work.
 
Check the can for minimum application temperature. Oil based varnish that I use may be similar: minimum temperature for application is 50 degrees with a 16 hour cure time. At 80 degrees the cure time (safe to touch) is 4 hours.

I actually do some of my best varnishing on small pieces with temps in the 40's. I get very thick varnish coats that way. But right after I put on the coat the piece gets rushed into the bathroom where an exhaust fan is running and the temperature is heated to the 80's with a space heater. Bathrooms make a fine curing room for varnish especially if you use newspaper to catch any drips.

If you really want to refinish that old door then you will have to give it a good stripping with something like Jasco Premium Paint and Epoxy Remover first. Get rid of that soft sealer that's on there: it's never going to cure properly now. That means you will have to re-stain, too.

Or buy another door.
 
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