My boat is a 1985 Carver 3227. Overall we love her, plenty of room, and a stall shower. I want to change all the fuel lines to those not affected by alcohol. Checking the lines I found all lines have factory installed screw component ends. I am considering replacement of the hoses without the factory ends but using double clamps. I'm nervous about it. Any suggestions, etc would be appreciated.
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Fuel lines, replacement.
- Thread starter LarryLI
- Start date
Good reminder. I'll definitely use USCG approved lines. I'm wondering about using double hose clamps instead of the specific fittings that are installed. I'd have to have all the lines fabricated, which is going to be costly. All the lines have these hose connectors, including the vent, main lines to the fuel management manifold (not sure what it's actually called) which allows shutting of one tank, both tanks. Swap the right main to draw from the left tank, etc.. It ends up being a lot of hoses.
And thanks for the reply.
And thanks for the reply.
marykhubby
Member
- Joined
- Mar 16, 2007
- RO Number
- 25522
- Messages
- 584
Larry - maybe another idea to consider...
I just finished Phase1 of line replacements (I agree - there are ALOT of lines under there) from the engine to the distribution valve. I was able to find USCG approved universal hose online with inverted flare crimped fittings to isolate vibration from the engine stock fuel filter to the firewall (MUST BE USCG RATED, and it will reflect this on the hose). Then bent hard line (bender and pre-flared piping lengths bought at NAPA) to the fuel/water separators, and then to the valves. Utilized brass fittings with fuel rated thread sealant at the connection points. It took some time, and you have to be able to figure angles, and lengths, to bend hard line to fit. Overall the hard lines should hold up longer than rubber, and those clamps at the F/W separator (that also used to make me nervous) can be eliminated.
I just finished Phase1 of line replacements (I agree - there are ALOT of lines under there) from the engine to the distribution valve. I was able to find USCG approved universal hose online with inverted flare crimped fittings to isolate vibration from the engine stock fuel filter to the firewall (MUST BE USCG RATED, and it will reflect this on the hose). Then bent hard line (bender and pre-flared piping lengths bought at NAPA) to the fuel/water separators, and then to the valves. Utilized brass fittings with fuel rated thread sealant at the connection points. It took some time, and you have to be able to figure angles, and lengths, to bend hard line to fit. Overall the hard lines should hold up longer than rubber, and those clamps at the F/W separator (that also used to make me nervous) can be eliminated.
marykhubby
Member
- Joined
- Mar 16, 2007
- RO Number
- 25522
- Messages
- 584
a quick update Larry...
Splashed Sunday. Lines worked perfectly. No leaks. No crimped tubing issues. You can do this and it's worth the increased confidence of having no clamps involved. Next winter, phase 2...
Don
Splashed Sunday. Lines worked perfectly. No leaks. No crimped tubing issues. You can do this and it's worth the increased confidence of having no clamps involved. Next winter, phase 2...
Don