Good polisher for compounding

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MrsRobinson

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We are having our boat pulled in a few weeks. We use an orbital polisher to apply wax each year with good results. Lots of hand waxingcleaning thru the season.

This time we want to compound her good first, before we apply wax, and do not want to do it by hand.

What's a good, entry to mid level polisherbuffer for doing this? The hull shines for the most part with some dull spots so I do not need the mack daddy machine.

I see this one

http://www.amazon.com/Professional-Grade-Truck-Boat-Polisher-Buffer/dp/B000HCUM6I

online and it looks good enough but perhaps it's a piece of junk.

Thanks,
 
Greg, that appears to be the same unit as a Vector 236, in different colors and with a different label.

I have a 236, and I'm happy with it. I've suspected that the 236 was NOT made by Vector, because it's several notches in quality beyoond the rest of their products.

It's fairly heavy (for the right reasons - it's solidly built) and it has a very welcome "soft start" feature that I got addicted to right away. (helps avoid spraying compound right after you apply it)
 
I'd scroll down that page to the Makita 9227C and order up. Heavy may be a sign of quality build - actually at this point its a sign of old technology - but by 3PM it only means tired arms. You may not want the mack daddy but it sure is nice to idle in with a hull glistening with the reflection off the water.
 
Dumb question, for compounding what kind of pad do I use and for polishing whay kind of pad do I use? I use the foam ones to apply wax with the orbital and then hand wipe if off with a diaper.

Thanks,
 
Why don't you just call Ralph Macchio and be done with it. I hear he's looking for work!
 
I don't disagree Manmade. I should've said it's heavy, BUT has a soft-start... For horizontal surfaces, the 236 (or however else it's being marketed) is just about perfectly-weighted.

When you're working on the hull at the bow of your boat though, yup - sore arms. Lesson learned: START AT THE BOW AND WORK BACK! (even with a light-weight tool)

The only category Manmade and I have disagreed on in the past is about foam pads. I don't like em, he does.
 
I agree with Manmade on the Makita. My polisher is just to heavy and a bit large to do my flybridge. I want the Makita now!
 
I can't speak of the lesser expensive machines, but I can say this. Get the Makita. I'm not a professional boat detailer, but I've been a serious minded boat owner for over 10 years and my Makita is just about on its last legs, meaning I've just about worn it out all by myself. I have used it for compounding/polishing and did an entire bottom job once as a sander. It's very versatile and a good machine.

The smart money buys the good machine the first time.

bp
 
i totally took a different approach, i went for the mac daddy as i plan on using it and having it for years to come. i can tell you, and so can others that have borrowed it, that there is a huge difference i power between my dewalt and some of the other lesser expensive models.

she is heavy but when using compound it does not ever wimp out....an i just went thru a big jug of super duty, 2 bottles of finese it, and 1 can of colinte fleet wax on my boat a month ago.

i would not trade my dewalt for anything i have seen anybody else use. the money you are saving yourself by doing this yourself....get a good one and be done.

btw. i think foam pads are much much more user friendly.
 
What kind of foam pads do you use for compounding and finessing? Where do you purchase them?

I plan to use the 3M Rubbing compound 1st, then go over that with Finese? I have never done the Finesse step, straight to wax in the past. Then go over that with the Collinite Paste by hand? Never used a polisher for the Collinite Paste, we always apply and remove it by hand.
 
i use the 3m hook it foam pads. bought them at a local body shop supplier.

if you only need to remove light oxidation i would try with the finese first before using the superduty compound on these newer gelcoats.

i can not say i had any better results witht the buffer an the colinite, just seemed to go fast....she put the wax on by hand, i went right behind and removed.
 
The mack daddy of polishing and getting a finish which "pops" is the cyclo polisher from what I have seen. The DeWalt and the Makita are very similar and certainly worth their price in the long run.

With advancements in foam pads over the years I think wool pads will be obsolete by the end of the decade. Manufacturers are now producing products which react differently to the pad being used, so instead of changing from compound to polish to wax, you will use one product and change from say a yellow to orange to green to blue foam pad system. Unfortunately their isn't an industry standard so one manufacturers yellow pad will not be the same as another. Depending on the line you are using a black pad could be for compounding or it can be for finish buffing.

Rather than using 3M compound I would suggest Buff Magic and then lock in your finish with Pro Polish. 3M products are certainly very good but relative to the effort needed to make them work there are other products which will give you a better return on your investment of time. If you have a surface with little or no oxidation use MaryKate Maxi Cleaner/Wax and be done with it. Between using a Makita/DeWalt and a Porter-Cable 7424, the only time I would do a surface by hand would be if the machine couldn't fit in the area. Hand application should be a thing of the past.
 
I have been looking at Buff Magic and reading up on it. You use it with good results?
 
This was the first year I have used Buff Magic and I am very pleased with it, the way it works and stands up over time. Interesting product in that it had good cutting action and leaves a good shine. It is so much easier to use than 3M with comparable results I would find it hard to justify using the 3M. I only used it with foam pads, if you have bad oxidation or damaged gel coat and use wool pads it will most likely turn the surface around to your satisfaction.

While you are considering what to use think about putting Leverage on as a final coat. This stuff is beyond belief, I have it on my transom now and it gets slicker with each passing day. You actually should give strong consideration to locking the Buff Magic in with their Pro Polish for the best possible long term finish.
 
Where do you folks purchase your foam pads? I cannot find any here locally.
 
I bought mine at a local painting supply store. I bought too many of them. There are places where they're useful, but I still prefer wool.

I had a perfect "fine point shine" on the transom, but needed to edge up to the "SR" emblem, so I switched to a finishing foam pad, applied the same Finesse-It II that I used everywhere else. I LOST shine in that area as a result. I put the wool back on and fixed it. I've been weary of foam ever since.
 
i get mine from carquest, there body shop supply section.
 
SLW, you used the wrong pad/product combination! The foam pad didn't have enough bite for the Finesse so you were dragging the product over the surface instead of polishing it. Go to your supply place and ask for Meguiars SOLO and the pads to go along with it...this is a product where by changing the pad you change the performance of the product, you will then see what a foam pad can do, thank you very much :)
 
I saw a guy at the marina last weekend use a cordless (rechargeable) buffer that had a long extension handle on it. He said he was getting great results compounding and waxing. I did not think to get the brand or model, but I think it was black and orange or black and yellow. He said it bought it at Home Depot for $99. I looked and can’t find it at Home Depot or on line. Where my boat is stored, there is no power, but plenty of winter to clean and wax while it’s on blocks.

Has anyone see something like this?

Thanks

Jim
 
manmade,

Do you have any pix of your boat. I assume, based on your profile, it is in a slip. All the boats in the Buff Magic ad appear to be trailered which in my experience can make a huge difference in the boats overall condition.

TIA
 
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