My Yami shop manual specified a Yami tool part number to torque the oil filter on, after a little research it was an end cap filter wrench with a 3/8" drive for my torque wrench. I spun off the old and torqued on the new in a flash. My old Clymer shop manual had a great tip about making a bib under the old filter (horizontal mount) which saved me a lot of time on clean up. That filter is just held on by the compression of that rubber gasket, the oil pressure can get up to 90 psi as it flows into the filter on those perimeter holes, what a great idea to torque it on to the specified 12.9 ft-lbs rather than hand tighten it maybe it come loose and the engines life blood bleeds out in minutes. I am a believer in those end cap filter wrenches, I bought one for my truck now too.
Great tool - end cap oil filter wrench
- Thread starter DeltaDawg
- Start date
I have both types: end cap and strap type for the cars. Space limitations make the strap type a better tool on the WRX.
If you you don't have a torque wrench and can see the filter you can always get approximately the right torque by looking at the quarter turn marks printed on every spin-on oil filter. Most require a 3/4 turn to fully tighten.
The old boat is a lot different and neither oil filter tool works there. That 1947 engine uses a cartridge-type oil filter that fits into a bell housing. Apparently a lot of trucks and tractors still use these so I have no trouble buying replacements.
If you you don't have a torque wrench and can see the filter you can always get approximately the right torque by looking at the quarter turn marks printed on every spin-on oil filter. Most require a 3/4 turn to fully tighten.
The old boat is a lot different and neither oil filter tool works there. That 1947 engine uses a cartridge-type oil filter that fits into a bell housing. Apparently a lot of trucks and tractors still use these so I have no trouble buying replacements.
Yzer, you are a genius if you have both types of filter wrenches I have been doing that job the hard way for too many years. I have just started writing notes in my shop manual too e.g. oil drain plug 14mm, power trim tilt reservoir plug 17mm, converting newton-meter torques to the appropriate inch-lb or foot-lb scales for my small and large torque wrench. Some grade school teacher taught me not to write in books and that was just plain bad advice, I write in recipie books, shop manuals and owners manuals.
Yes Flutterby, I love being in control of my own maintenance, getting the good factory shop manuals, buying special tools, making notes so next time it is easier or I am sure to bring along the right size wrench without bring all my tools. I bought some spare parts today too from the Yami dealer, an impeller kit, prop shaft oil seals, extra fuel and oil filters; it is nice to have spares on my own garage shelf. I saved $1,000 on the routine maintenance I did myself this Monday and it took me less than 4 hours.
Congratulations, DD. I also enjoy doing most of the boat work myself. My boat is old enough that I don't need a laptop to work on it but I still carry a 50 lb. toolbox back and forth from home to boat. That toolbox has another benefit: I can trim the boat with it and won't need to buy trim tabs.
I love doing my own maintenance, too. There's great enjoyment and relaxation to me just tinkering on the boat. It gives me a feeling of control and understanding of my boat that I wouldn't otherwise have.
The savings added to my boating fund helps, too. It allows me to pay for improvements which enhance the whole boating/fishing experience. I've got several of those enhancements awaiting installation, right after I do my annual engines' servicing next weekend.
Day 1: Replace engine oil and filters, replace primary and Racor fuel filters, replace raw water impellers, replace tranny fluid, check belts/hoses/coolant.
Day 2: Install LED spreader lights on radar mast, install new galley faucet, install PA speaker, replace inverter wiring harness, install bow washdown hose canister.
Day 3,4 and maybe 5: Relax, drink (quite) a few beers while admiring my handywork!!
Man, I sure love boating!!
The savings added to my boating fund helps, too. It allows me to pay for improvements which enhance the whole boating/fishing experience. I've got several of those enhancements awaiting installation, right after I do my annual engines' servicing next weekend.
Day 1: Replace engine oil and filters, replace primary and Racor fuel filters, replace raw water impellers, replace tranny fluid, check belts/hoses/coolant.
Day 2: Install LED spreader lights on radar mast, install new galley faucet, install PA speaker, replace inverter wiring harness, install bow washdown hose canister.
Day 3,4 and maybe 5: Relax, drink (quite) a few beers while admiring my handywork!!
Man, I sure love boating!!
Yes I saw those on a subsequent trip to that store and the 2 sizes I needed are in that assembly which contains Sizes: 3-5/32'' (80 mm) x 30 flutes, 2-27/32'' (65 & 68 mm) x 14 flutes, 3'' (74 mm & 76 mm) x 15 flutes, 3-31/32'' (93 mm) x 36 flutes and the price for 4 is what I paid for 1 at the nearby auto parts store but I figure I got a good deal compared to the Yami tool part number that was called out in my shop manual.
Next I am keeping my eye open for a bicycle pump with good gage so I can pressurize the lower unit with 14.2 psi to routinely test if fishing line wrapped around the prop and damaged the shaft seals then I won't need that Yami tool either. Until I find the bicycle pump I can check the lower unit for leaking lube and occasionally check for water in the lube.
Next I am keeping my eye open for a bicycle pump with good gage so I can pressurize the lower unit with 14.2 psi to routinely test if fishing line wrapped around the prop and damaged the shaft seals then I won't need that Yami tool either. Until I find the bicycle pump I can check the lower unit for leaking lube and occasionally check for water in the lube.
I made a pressure test adapter. Took a drain plug (probably top plug, no magnet) and removed nylon gasket. Took a tire valve and cut/wire brushed the rubber off till only brass showed. Removed core and drilled through the plug to match the end of the brass of the stem. Soldered stem to plug. Just ordinary soft solder. Replaced valve core and installed an O-Ring where the plug gasket was. This lets the plug seal air pressure just hand tight.
EDIT: Just read this and changed "to plug" to "toP plug" - sorry...
EDIT: Just read this and changed "to plug" to "toP plug" - sorry...
I like your solution thanks for tuning the text to "top" plug I understand why you wanted to drill the one without the magnet. Thanks for pointing that out I will pay attention to metal on the bottom plug when I remove it with that clutch dog in there it can wear the gears. I like the added o-ring to seal hand tight. I saw a home made lower unit tester on another forum, it had a bike pump, salvaged nipple from lube fill (I will be careful to match the thread exactly) and that 1 used a diagnostic fuel pressure gage (probably better quality than the gage on a bike pump I don't want to overpressurize and blow the seals. I was looking for a pressure accessory for my Might Vac MV8000 but am striking out.
Like I wrote above I love being in control of my own maintenance it is so empowering and I can know and understand the diagnostics, installation of new parts and new seals, I can check torques after running the engine.
Like I wrote above I love being in control of my own maintenance it is so empowering and I can know and understand the diagnostics, installation of new parts and new seals, I can check torques after running the engine.