Holding tank filter

P

PromisesKept

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Joined
Jun 28, 2007
RO Number
27037
Messages
55
I have a friend that needs to change the holding tank filter on his 2004 34 Sea Ray Amber Jack, anyone with this boat know how long this takes and is it hard to get to.

Thanks,
Steve
 
Depends on where the filter is physically located... It is in the vent line, somewhere between the holding tank and the through-the-hull fitting on the side of the boat. With good access, it only takes a few minutes to change the filter. But if you can't get at it, it could take a long time to change it. The fittings simply unscrew from each end of it.

BoatFix has 'em for $60.84; a pretty good discount from the factory price of $98.91.

(8th item down):
http://www.boatfix.com/bypage2index.asp?page=593

(catalog page showing retail price):
http://www.boatfix.com/catalog/593.pdf
 
Rebuild them yourself for less than $10 the first time. $5 each time thereafter. If you do want a new one then def. Boatfix is the place to get them.

BTW - takes less than 30 minutes to rebuild the first time and refills take even less time.
 
There is (was) a good thread around here showed how to do that rebuild. I liked it because the work appeared to be within my skills envelope. Like, all thumbs.
 
I don't have pictures handy but the process is simple.

Tools needed

1) Hack saw or PVC saw.
2) Screw driver.

Materials needed

1) 2" no-hub fitting available at Home Depot or Lowes.
2) Box of activated carbon filter pellets from your local pet store. (Used in fish tanks)

Remove filter from boat.

Cut in half with filter.

Discard old carbon material.

Fill both half's with new filter media.

Use no-hub fitting to hold 2 ends together.

Install back in boat.

The no-hub fitting can be reused for future rebuilds.
 
Rommer,

I have modify the instructions a little bit. Takes a little more the first time around, but even simple for the future rebuilds.

Instead of using a 2" no hub fitting, with two hose clamps, I use two glue adaptors, one with a male thread and one with a female thread. Now when i need to change the filter I just unscrew the adaptors. I was concerned that it would be to flimsy with the no hub fitting.
 
quote:
Originally posted by rommer

I don't have pictures handy but the process is simple.

Tools needed

1) Hack saw or PVC saw.
2) Screw driver.

Materials needed

1) 2" no-hub fitting available at Home Depot or Lowes.
2) Box of activated carbon filter pellets from your local pet store. (Used in fish tanks)

Remove filter from boat.

Cut in half with filter.

Discard old carbon material.

Fill both half's with new filter media.

Use no-hub fitting to hold 2 ends together.

Install back in boat.

The no-hub fitting can be reused for future rebuilds.

Click to expand...


Good advice............. just add to the " material needed "

......large box of band-aids
 
quote:
Originally posted by rommer

I don't have pictures handy but the process is simple.

Tools needed

1) Hack saw or PVC saw.
2) Screw driver.

Materials needed

1) 2" no-hub fitting available at Home Depot or Lowes.
2) Box of activated carbon filter pellets from your local pet store. (Used in fish tanks)

Remove filter from boat.

Cut in half with filter.

Discard old carbon material.

Fill both half's with new filter media.

Use no-hub fitting to hold 2 ends together.

Install back in boat.

The no-hub fitting can be reused for future rebuilds.

Click to expand...


That should work.

Or,

Eliminate the filter altogether. Either splice in a matching piece of hose or run a new hose from the holding tank to the vent through-hull.

Some folks, even sanitation system experts, believe the vent filter adds to the problem by restricting air flow to the holding tank.

I have no filter in either of my boats and while I have nothing to comare them to, I don't have any serious odor problems. And no filter maintenance.
 
I have flushed mine for a few mins with fresh water via a backyard hose then place it outside to dry out for a few days. Have had no problems.
 
Flushed the filter?

From what I have heard is once they get wet they tend to clog causing pressure to build in the holding tank.
 
Thanks for the feedback, great idea to rebuild I never would have thought about that.
 
I rebuilt mine as per the directions, last year, and it worked fine this past summer. much cheaper....

Jim
 
Is there a necessity to have the vent line straight? My vent filter appears to be difficult to get to for replacement. If I could locate it closer to the tank, it would be easier to maintain but that will involve some plumbing adjustments. Also, the vent line seems very small in diameter. Is their a formula to size the line?

TIA
 
If your using a vent filter then line size is not that big an issue. Using a non-filtered approach then you need bigger vent lines to get air flow. Preferably 2 vents, one on each side of the boat to encourage air flow. There is a recommended minimum of about 1" IIRC.
 
quote:
Originally posted by KiDa

Is there a necessity to have the vent line straight? My vent filter appears to be difficult to get to for replacement. If I could locate it closer to the tank, it would be easier to maintain but that will involve some plumbing adjustments. Also, the vent line seems very small in diameter. Is their a formula to size the line?

TIA

Click to expand...


The vent line does not need to be straight, but tth more straight it is, the better the air flow. As pointed out by others, if you are using a filter, you don't have any natural air flow anyway so it doesn't matter. The filter can be anywhere in the line.

It's important to know and remember that if your vent line or filter is clogged or blocked, it's possible to collapse the holding tank if you're using a powerfull pumpout station. Someone makes a relief valve that can be installed in the tank to prevent this. I don't remember who.
 
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