How do I remove a transducer thats in with 5200?

  • Thread starter Thread starter RM
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RM

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Need to pull the a thrull hull transducer than I believe was installed with 5200. It is a crappy Airmar B45 and after 2 years the temp sensor has gone. It is installed in a high speed fairing block (the blue one) and trying to figure if way to remove it without damaging the fairing block or the fiberglass.

Also any recomendations for a replacement? Matched with a Furnuo585.

Thanks
 
Are you sure it's 5200? I don't know of anything that can cut that chemically.

4200 OTOH is more forgiving. 3M makes a remover for it.
 
There is a product called"Debond 2000" that is supposed to work. Not sure if Boatfix has it of not.
 
If it's a 2" transducer replace it with a 2-3/8" like the B60 and just cut it out with a whole saw.

MJK
 
C4??? MAYBE, but you have to worry about "collateral damage" (though in this market that may be a good thing).
 
Maybe we should all raft off him when he goes for the C4.
 
Debond, and/or micro-braid fishing line used as sealant-saw or I've heard piano wire. Heat , if it can be safely applied. Remove any bolts/screws in the fairing block 1st.
 
DeBond 2000 will work.

You'll be amazed at how readily it breaks the 5200 down.

Bob
 
Just did that a few days ago. No chemical agents were required. Removed an old V44V to put in a B-60. First used a hand sledge to drive the old transducer down from the inside. This gave sufficient apace under the fairing block to get in a wrecking bar. Worked on the old transducer with the bar and a couple of big pipe wrenches until it was out. Had a little problem when we got to the point where the peened over material on the inside had to pass through the fiberglass.

However presistence paid off.

If you have a flush mount like the B-60 it will be harger to get to anything to pry on or use the pipe wrench. On the otherhand there will be less 5200 between the hull and transducer.

If you have room inside you might get it loosened with a pipe wrench before pounding.

I do not see how you could cut it out with a hole saw.

If the old hole is 2" be sure to make a template to help saw the new hole larger, if required.

It really is not that difficult. On my old transducer getting the old nut started was the most difficult part of the job. Having to travel home to get a cold chisel and hand sledge took the most time.

Once the nut was off it was less than 15 minutes to get the old transducer out.

George
 
I just read on Mad Mariner that a product called Anti-bond will help to remove 5200.

Shel
 
combination of things will get it out; start with heat, 5200 does not like heat. use a heat gun to get the metal part hot. use piano wire or similar to get a cut started along the edge. use a set of wood wedges and drive them under the edge of the block with a hammer. as soon as you get a lip started, soak it with the debonding agent. it will take more debond and more wedges once you lift the first edge but it will come out. heat and patients is your friend on this project. good luck!
 
What is the obsession with using 5200 for every through hull fitting on a boat? The mechanical strength of your connections should be strong enough so that 5200 is not required.

I use Boatlife and have never had a problem. Even Boatlife prevents parts from loosing from vibration, and the fittings are easy to remove.
 
Boatlife makes many products, its a brand. But I agree, the over use of 5200 is problematic and rooted in ignorance.
 
Part of the "problem" with 5200 is availability, it's available just about everywhere; Home stores, Big Box, etc. Not the same with Boatlife. Sometimes you use what you can find.
 
quote:
Originally posted by obeejr

What is the obsession with using 5200
Click to expand...


I agree, having an older boat I have used a lot of goop but never 5200.

Niles
 
My dear friend: I did a few of them easy way save the block. remove the nut is holding the sender and with a piece of 2X4 and a hammer knock the sender out you don't need heat just a knife to install the new make a hole to fit with a hole saw and you still use the block when installing the new use a good Boatlife caulk and you'll be done
 
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