How to mount shoot through transducer

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watson524

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Mar 24, 2008
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29669
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Hi all,

Didn't think this fit over in electrical since it's not so much the hook up part I'm concerned about. I have a 1987 Chaparral 198XL. Decided to get a depth sounder off of eBay and install it. It's a shoot through puck style transducer with a slanted bottom (fixed). Looks like the slope will roughly match a spot down in the bilge just forward of the engine. I'm going to put it in a bag of water to test for a good spot but how would you recommend actually installing? I do not want a permanent install with epoxy. I've read various things from a 3 - 4" PVC pipe sealed down with 4200 and then filled with mineral oil or AF (not sure if you then just let the transducer sit all the way down or have to suspend it a bit somehow) and I've also read a giant glob of silicone and then push the transducer in.

Figured I'd just ask the experts.

thanks!
 
I put one in an Aluminum boat. Gooped it down with Epoxy, but it didn't work.
Then I cut a hole in the boat, Gooped it in place with Epoxy. It worked, but only at slow speeds.
I sanded the bottom smooth, ahead of the Xducer port, but that didn't help.
It works well up to 5-7 mph.
 
Ah, know this issue well.
You need to check with the bag of water to make sure your in a good spot.
If that does not work, hang it over the side of the boat and see if it works at all.

They sell special cups that hold it, but I ended up just gluing it down which they say is preferred method.
I used 5200 which is not recommended because it can contain air bubbles and I do get an occasional off read.
Epoxy is the recommended method I believe.
When you glue it down, put some bricks around it and on it to get it to glue down firmly and don't let the bricks get glued down!

But definately test the spot. If you can figure out how to test the spot while underway, that is preferred too.
I think where I mounted mine the IPS occasionally inteferes with it, so sometimes it cuts out, but it's like all depth finders, they sometimes lose track of the bottom and don't read!

It usually works really well at low speeds, which is when I need it the most.
At cruising speed I usually know where I am hopefully!
 
Do you by chance know what the cups are called or who has them to install?
 
Don't use silicone. You are trying to transmit a very high frequency sound chirp and the anything flexible like silicone just absorbs the sound. Use the hardest epoxy you can find like PC-7 or liquid steel.
 
ok I don't think my unit will work with that cup thing given that it's already slanted on the bottom, unless i'm looking at it wrong and i can put my unit inside the cup with the matching slant. Maybe that would actually work. I think I did see those cups and think that was cup and transducer all in one vs just the cup part
 
Follow the AirMar instructions; they make 90% of the transducers out there for all the different brands.
 
The cup is slanted. You match the deadrise of your boat and the instructions tell you how.
I had the cup on my old boat and it leaked AF once and I had to reinstall.
Pretty easy.
 
ok. i'll have to try to get some measurements because i think my transducer is much bigger than the cups i'm seeing. might have to make my own
 
Check your model # and brand and look online.
You don't need the cup and the epoxy is the preferred method but once down it will never come up!
 
the transducer has nothing on it. no numbers at all. just solid smooth plastic all around it. and that's my issue, i don't think i want a permanent never to be changed install.
 
You sure is a in hull transducer?
Any pics?
Have you tested it yet?
Just hang over the side.
 
tested it in a trash can. seems to work fine. ticks like it should, displayed 2 - 4' depending on how i moved it. am not home right now but can post pictures.
 
I just installed an Airmar for use with my Garmin network. It came with a variable pitch base that you adhere to the hull and then place the 'ducer into it and use 2.4 oz of propelene glycol antifreeze to fill the base. I sanded the hull just infront of the starboard engine and fastened the base with 4200. It works great, at least at the dock. I haven't tried it on plane yet.
 
I have the type that Currentsea posted the directions for, it works great at all speeds. I had some problems with it initially but realized I didn't have the angle quite right. I removed it and reinstalled and has been great ever since. Follow the directions, which say to NOT use epoxy.
 
hmm, I thought it says use epoxy.
I even called and he said don't use silcone or any non dense adhesive.
 
Ok, I want to clarify this and I suggest you call them, because I remember having this argument with them.
If you are using the cup, don't use epoxy.
If you are not using the cup, then you need to use epoxy because silicone is not dense enough.

The guy specifically told me to get 2 part epoxy and glue it down.
I didn't do that and it works but he told me sometimes it does and sometimes it doesn't and if you are not using the cup you need to use epoxy!!
 
That's why I think I'm going to be taking some PVC and making my own cup and filling it with AF. I don't want anything as permanent as exoxy going in there.
 
Agree and that was my concern.
Regal used the epoxy but over time it got brittle and falls off.
The cup is the way to go, but use silcone to mount cup.
Epoxy is fine for a permanent install but will get brittle and break free over time.
Likewise with the cup you will find that if seal is not perfect you may lose the AF over time ot it will evaporate from heat.
 
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