How/Where do you buy a trailer?

T

tdog

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I posted a few weeks back about my accident while trailering. The trailer was totaled. Insurance insisted on taking the boat and trailer to the small dealer that sells my boat, over my objections.

They priced out a trailer for me and it strikes me as crazy. It's a 12 year old boat. I was thinking $4 for a trailer. They are telling me just under $7 all in.

It's a 25 foot mid cabin cruiser. Probably 6,500 lbs. dual axle. I want brakes on each wheel and I want electric brakes as there will be a weight distributing hitch.

How do I spec that out?
 
Bought a trailer for my 24' inboard wow, long time ago now...15 years or so. Went through the boat dealer as the local trailer supplier that had the manufacturer design on file supposedly didn't sell direct to the public. Dual axle, hydraulic brakes on only one of them....was about $4k back then.

That's all I've got.
 
$7k for a new dual axle trailer with brakes etc doenst strike me as completely crazy... I was looking for used trailers a couple of years ago for the sailboat I built (26') and prices were just plain crazy...
 
Look at Venture trailers. Double axel,aluminum bunk trailer for 26 foot boat around 4 to 5000 new.
 
Electric brakes on a boat trailer? How well does that usually work? These guys seem to have the best prices on bunk trailers.

http://emimarineinc.com/blank.html

Ventures Mdl. VATB-7225, Disc Brakes,
Aluminum, Alloy Mags, for 27' Boat $3575 !!

The Venture Model, VATB-5925, Aluminum, Disc Brakes(on one Axel),
Bunks, Tandem Axel, Alloy Mag Wheels, 2" Actuator, 5-Prong Flat Plug, 14" Wheels, carrys 5925 lbs., & up to a 25'
Boat...$2699 !!!.....
 
On brakes, aren't my choices surge vs electric?

Surge won't work because the weight distributing hitch will prevent the brakes from ever being actuated.

Did I mess that up?

I thought electric brakes meant I tap the brakes in the tow vehicle, the brakes in the trailer are on right now. Is that correct?
 
Many comments on your other topic (about a towing vehicle) said that you need at least a 3/4 ton truck, yet you go with something lesser and then try tricks to get away with towing a huge load. You're asking for the same result you just went through and perhaps things will be worse the next time? Heck, you don't even know for sure what your boat weighs!

As Alk hinted: Electric and water usually don't mix very well. I tow a 30' 7,500 lbs boat with a 3/4 ton truck and surge brakes.
 
I'm not saying electric brakes don't work well with boats - I was asking because I have no idea.

I always assumed you were stuck with surge breaks on boats, because once you dipped the axels the electric brakes would be pretty much toasted. Learn something everyday, apparently they are selling an electric/hydraulic hybrid these days -- not the same as RV type electric were there is power to the hub, but an electric actuator that pumps fluid to the brakes.

http://www.boatus.com/magazine/trailering/2013/february/electric-over-hydraulic-brakes.asp
 
Don't forget that when you buy a trailer it has to be "fitted" to the boat. The bow stop has to be placed correctly to get the proper weight distribution. The bunks need to be adjusted correctly, etc. I probably could have bought my trailer for less money, but I opted to go to a reputable trailer dealer and they did all that fitting, and it rides just fine.

Roy
 
"You can't get the electric over hydraulic actuator wet," - From the article.

It is a nice idea, but not practical IMO. Heavy duty truck, heavy duty trailer, that is my way of doing it. 14,000 miles towing so far with success and without "tricks" to get it done. Another quote from the article:

" Federal law also requires a breakaway kit, including battery, installed on any trailer with EOH brakes so that the trailer brakes will activate in the event it becomes separated from the tow vehicle. Trailers with the standard surge brakes use a breakaway cable to do the same, should a separation occur."

The OP here is trying to keep costs down. This seems like a more expensive system.
 
Thanks. I meant electric over hydraulic.

I've looked for a 3/4 ton SUV of recent lineage. I can't find one and they aren't made anymore. 2005 excursion with 200,000 miles isn't very appealing. I think the real answer is sell the boat. I don't want to tow anything. I just don't have the balls to tell the wife that (she loves the boat, it's nothing but stress for me even 15 yrs of boating later).
 
Why not (as you mentioned in the other thread) try a slip for a season and see how that goes? Is there a "high and dry" option in your area? I'm not a big fan of towing either. The only reason we do it is to get from MD to FL. Other than that we keep the boat in a slip.
 
EOH isn't exactly a "trick". It's offered by several large trailer manufacturers. And, if you're submerging your hydraulic actuator you're doing it wrong. Better check your brake fluid for water.

Sure it's more expensive. Yes there are more parts involved. However, used properly they perform better than hydraulic surge. Kinda sounds exactly like the case being made for a 3/4 ton...works better but costs more. For the record I agree with 3/4 ton. The Boat US link says boats over 3,500 lbs should go EOH.

"Brake manufacturers suggest using electric over hydraulic if the boat being pulled exceeds 3,500 pounds. This becomes all the more important when one considers that a boat that size being backed down a boat ramp with the conventional surge system is using only the tow vehicle brakes. "

http://www.boatus.com/magazine/trailering/2013/february/electric-over-hydraulic-brakes.asp

It also says the EOH upgrade cost is around 3 boat bucks so the $7k new trailer is sounding about right.

tdog, maybe a downsize would be in order.
 
quote:
Originally posted by onthecreek

EOH isn't exactly a "trick". It's offered by several large trailer manufacturers.

Click to expand...


I wasn't calling EOH a "trick. I was referring to his comment about using a WDH: "Surge won't work because the weight distributing hitch will prevent the brakes from ever being actuated." IMO a properly sized tow vehicle shouldn't need a WDH.
 
In my experience, EOH is the ONLY way to go for larger trailers.
 
I honestly have to say I feel my rig handles fine with surge brakes, but I sure would consider EOH if I didn't. If the trawler I now also own doesn't work out as the long-term cruising boat in the next couple of years and I go back to trailering my cat, I may make that change.
 
you can pull about 10,000 pounds with a late modal Suburban 2500, but those trucks aren't cheap - probably get 15 years in a marina slip for the cost of the truck.

My bowrider and trailer weigh in around 4,000 lbs. Would not want to tow much more on a regular basis, and my truck can handle almost 3 times that. Brakes are never my concern, just hanging all that weight thru turns, tight lanes, etc. I guess it was about five years ago, went thru a whole season without knowing my brakes were not even working; oops.
 
Once you have tried EOH, cranked up the feed back so the trailer brakes first, you will never go back to surge.
 
Be sure to buy roller, bunk trailers are ok for small boats but 25' its lousy!
 
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