I just resealed mine.
1. Remove steering wheel, then remove 4 screws holding unit in place.
2. Mark lines to insure they are replaced to the correct fitting, I used colored zip ties. Remove lines, I put them in a baggie to keep debris out & catch any oil.
3. Remove the 4 bolts holding the line manifold to the housing, pay attention to the timing marks, mine had x stamped on each part. This has to be replaced in the same position.
4. Tap on the shaft to remove internal parts, the shaft is keyed to the rotating assy. The individual pistons do not have to be removed from the rotating assy. you can see in the housing a plastic part with what looks like ball bearings imbedded in it, the quadring & backup are behind it. The seal kit will have extra parts, match what comes out of yours.
5. 2 pieces to seal shaft & 3 orings on rotating assy. When installing the rotating assy. check the pistons they are machined on the end to pass over the bearings when the wheel is turned, the groove should be aligned on all pistons to match the curve of the bearings.
6. Evenly tighten bolts, do not forget the timing marks. Replace lines, helm & wheel.
7. Bleeding- fill tank & charge with air to 30 psi.
Remove bolts where ram attaches to rudders, make sure bleeders are on top, crack until no air comes out, tighten.
Loosen the relief valves, mine were under the oil tank.
Turn the wheel 60 times to port then 60 to SB 1 turn in
2-3 seconds. That should purge the air in system.
Hook the ram up, check the oil level in tank & air psi,
add as needed. Try it out, if it feels jerky it may need to
bleed again, I bleed mine twice to remove all air.
I got the required oil from a shop at the airport near the
Marina in Burlington, Ia. That's as close as I can recall
fix. Took about 2 hours to do.
