The 5.7 is the perfect size for the 2460. I had the 5.0 volvo and it ran like a champ. However, I cruised optimum at 3750 RPM's which transmitted a ton of noise from the engine to the cockpit via the port aft storage compartment next to the cockpit entry door from the swim platform at 3400 and above. There is no insulation there. I have heard of everything from carpet to spray on foam to quell the noise.
I do not a big fan of Merc due to galvanic corrosion issues in the B3. PM GeeBee. He has had more than enough issues with the problem.
Speaking from my experience, take her through a carwash and check for leaks. They will come from one of two places...the portholes, or the rubrail. The portholes are an easy fix. Clean the gaskets with 409, then silicone the gaskets. Let it soak in and allow the gasket to swell. The silicone is a once monthly event. Tighten the tension screws in the dogs after the gaskets have swelled. If that doesn't solve a porthole leak, the port holes need to be rebedded. That is a winter job. In the interim, caulk the area between the stainless and the hull. I will hold for a short while.
If it is the rubrail, you have another winter job on your hands. The hull to deck joint on that 24XX just plain sucks. The repair involves removal of all the rubrail components, using a hawksbill knife to remove as much of the existing caulk, rebedding the joint with an impervious product (I used 5200, in retrospect I would have used glass impregnated resin to make the hull and deck on piece as in a Fointain. The 5200 did the job though.
You will need a 7.5 to 10K BTU air conditioner. I had a 10K Zephyr cool only. It cost me the forward cabinet under the stove. The intake is in the door. The outputs are right above the unit for the forward cabin and via a 3 inch duct via the aft compartment for the rear cabin. The controls are best placed inboard and low of the CO detector just aft of the sink. That way, you can control the from the berth. With newer technology you could probable find a comparable unit that could fit under the cockpit steps.
You really don't need a windless on the boat. I have muscled it in with little effort in 10 knot winds and a 4 knot current. If there was another person on board, they handled the throttle and gears. If I were alone, I just had the engine in neutral and as soon as the anchor broke, I tied it off temp until I could idle to an area with less turbulence to fasten it as it should be. It is a pain, however, there is really no place I can think of for a windless to fit.
A 15" flat screen fits nicely on the shelf above the stove. A small 7-9 inch mounts nicely on the vertical step from the helm with Velcro. You cannot (or at least I could not) find too many 7-9 inch actual TV's around. The inputs connected to the outputs of the larger TV will work well here. You can put a cable hookup on the starboard side transom and run the cable under the floor in the "headboard" of the aft cabin. Ditto a shore water hookup. If you run a shore water hookup, run a valve to allow you to fill the Fresh water tank from it as well. It will make life easier.
Generator of choice is a Honda 2000iu. It will run everything you need...not all at once, but minimal power management is reqired.
HTH
