is it worth it......
- Thread starter johnNlexy
- Start date
Do it. Philippine mahogany (dark red meranti) isn't that expensive and holds a finish well. If your friend can get some Honduras mahogany that's even better: it will hold those rail screws a little better, but Philippine will do the job, too. Fit the wood first, finish it in the garage and fasten the rail when you're done. You could do the full stain and 12 coats of varnish route to boat show quality in less than two weeks.
Some advice for what's worth. IMHO, flat-topped wooden railings have no place on a boat. Half oval or oval section railing costs more, but it sheds water and offers more UV resistance for the finish than a flat surface.
It looks better, too.
Some advice for what's worth. IMHO, flat-topped wooden railings have no place on a boat. Half oval or oval section railing costs more, but it sheds water and offers more UV resistance for the finish than a flat surface.
It looks better, too.
quote:
Originally posted by yzer
Do it. Philippine mahogany (dark red meranti) isn't that expensive and holds a finish well. If your friend can get some Honduras mahogany that's even better: it will hold those rail screws a little better, but Philippine will do the job, too. Fit the wood first, finish it in the garage and fasten the rail when you're done. You could do the full stain and 12 coats of varnish route to boat show quality in less than two weeks.
Some advice for what's worth. IMHO, flat-topped wooden railings have no place on a boat. Half oval or oval section railing costs more, but it sheds water and offers more UV resistance for the finish than a flat surface.
It looks better, too.
I like the idea of the contour in the wood. what kind of stains and varnishes do you recomend
I use marine stains by Interlux. These are oil-based marine filler stains that will not fade with time. After the filler stain dries a couple of days follow with two coats of Pettit Clear Sealer. Sand the second coat of sealer with 220 grit, then do the varnish coats sanding with 220 between coats. I like Pettit BAK-V-SPAR varnish and have used it for 11 years. It's a traditional spar varnish that contains UV stabilizers.
BoatFix has full lines of Interlux and Pettit paints and varnishes.
If your original wood is not rotten or too badly weathered you can just remove it, strip it down to bare wood and refinish it. There is a very good chance your original wood is teak. Maybe all it needs is several fresh coats of teak oil. If it's teak: consider an oil finish, a synthetic hard finish like Cetol or varnish. The same goes for mahogany but it always looks best with varnish.
BoatFix has full lines of Interlux and Pettit paints and varnishes.
If your original wood is not rotten or too badly weathered you can just remove it, strip it down to bare wood and refinish it. There is a very good chance your original wood is teak. Maybe all it needs is several fresh coats of teak oil. If it's teak: consider an oil finish, a synthetic hard finish like Cetol or varnish. The same goes for mahogany but it always looks best with varnish.
Philippine mahogany and Honduras mahogany can be very similar in appearance but are different species. Honduras mahogany is true mahogany and grows in the New World. African mahogany and Philippine mahogany are not related to true mahogany. Both Honduras and Phillipine mahogany are time tested as excellent woods for boat building.
Here are some sample pictures. The first two photos use different brown stains.
Honduras mahogany
Philippine mahogany (lauan)
Philippine mahogany (light red meranti) Unstained.
Philippine mahogany (dark red meranti) Unstained.
Lauan is softer than meranti. My 53 year old Chris-Craft is made of dark red meranti (DRM) on a white oak frame. Some light red meranti (LRM) was used for windshield assembly. Here is some of the DRM from my boat.
Philippine mahogany (dark red meranti) Stained and varnished. Three pieces plus plugs.
I've held a piece of unfinished Honduras mahogany in one hand and Philippine mahogany (DRM) in the other and couldn't tell the difference by appearance. However, the Honduras is always heavier.
Here are some sample pictures. The first two photos use different brown stains.
Honduras mahogany
Philippine mahogany (lauan)
Philippine mahogany (light red meranti) Unstained.
Philippine mahogany (dark red meranti) Unstained.
Lauan is softer than meranti. My 53 year old Chris-Craft is made of dark red meranti (DRM) on a white oak frame. Some light red meranti (LRM) was used for windshield assembly. Here is some of the DRM from my boat.
Philippine mahogany (dark red meranti) Stained and varnished. Three pieces plus plugs.
I've held a piece of unfinished Honduras mahogany in one hand and Philippine mahogany (DRM) in the other and couldn't tell the difference by appearance. However, the Honduras is always heavier.
I'm with Ghost. that old wood will probably clean up well and is likely better quality than the softer stuff available today. I would remove so it will be easier to do. If you don’t like the result then you can go with the original plan.
Clean it up and strip it. It may well be teak and after the proper finish it may impress you!
Most trim woods on a boat tend to be teak or mahogany. A proper finish with a dozen or so finish coats will
be something you can be proud of.
Most trim woods on a boat tend to be teak or mahogany. A proper finish with a dozen or so finish coats will
be something you can be proud of.