Kohler Generator 9EOZD Won't Start

"Also I assume the vacuum gauge on my genny would of seen the issue i had with the pickup since the issue was way before the filter?"

Yes - the vac gage will read all the resistance(vacuum up-line form where it is installed so if I close one of my fuel valves back near the tanks the gage will rise immediately and quickly until the engine stops. If I had multiple filters up line I would prefer to use multiple vac gages but one will tell you a huge amount of information more than none. And in fact when I winterized once and left the valves closed I could see the gages rise and fall as the temp caused the fuel to expand and contract in the then unused fuel lines.
Here is the fuel manifolds that would cause the gage to go into 'shock' if closed.

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IMG_6083_zpsgnrfiieq.jpg
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Hope this helps
 
FWIW, a Racor brass drain valve (UL approved) is available for the "-02" spin-on filter's with metal bowls. It replaces the messy-to-use screw-in plug and gives drain flow control, but the original plug can be installed in the outlet end for added security.
Part # 19492, as seen here if you scroll down to Accessories:

http://www.parker.com/literature/Racor/22237_Rev_D_320R-RAC_Series.pdf

http://www.parker.com/literature/Racor/19493_Rev_B_RK19492_Brass_Shut-off_Valve.pdf

If you have bottom room to install and use it, it makes it way more convenient to check metal bowl contents.
Price varies a lot so it may pay to shop around.
 
"If you have bottom room to install and use it, it makes it way more convenient to check metal bowl contents.
Price varies a lot so it may pay to shop around."

I have used them and they are handy for sure but my filters are not in the engine spaces. If its in the engine room and you want to stay within the rules you need to use the same plug at the bottom of this that is on the bottom of the stock Racors.
Of course if you are not concerned with that type stuff just leave out the plugs below the valves.
 
Smitty:
I think Dave has the same problem you did at the beginning and if he deals with that all the other stuff will be nice but not really necessary.
 
quote:
Originally posted by Sandy

FWIW, a Racor brass drain valve (UL approved) is available for the "-02" spin-on filter's with metal bowls. It replaces the messy-to-use screw-in plug and gives drain flow control, but the original plug can be installed in the outlet end for added security.
Part # 19492, as seen here if you scroll down to Accessories:

http://www.parker.com/literature/Racor/22237_Rev_D_320R-RAC_Series.pdf

http://www.parker.com/literature/Racor/19493_Rev_B_RK19492_Brass_Shut-off_Valve.pdf

If you have bottom room to install and use it, it makes it way more convenient to check metal bowl contents.
Price varies a lot so it may pay to shop around.

Click to expand...


I found these valves the other day on discountracor dot com on sale so I bought 2. In case anyone is interested. Now I can easily drain the bottom of the filter into a glass babyfood jar and inspect it easily under sunlight without making a mess.

Jeff

Jeff
 
In a pinch , a cut down clear plastic soda bottle works well for inspecting gas from the filters . I was surprised but it does not melt. If all looks OK, pour it back into the tank fill or into a still-closeable empty soda bottle temporarily.
 
What does the snubber do?
I was wondering if I can tee off the fuel line and run up with hose to a storage area in my cockpit. This way I could check gauges without going down into the ER.
Would that work?
Would there be diesel in that hose?
The long set run would be about 15' if I put them all in one storage locker.
If not I can just put them on filters and would need to look in 3 places.

Does this gauge work? Does it have to say for fuel?

http://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/171953217970

-30HG -1Bar/0 Vacuum Pressure Gauge Glycerin Filled 2-1/2" Dial 1/4" Lower Mount
 
cant tell for sure but you want one with a set needle that will hold the highest reading reached.
 
Snubbers are used to remove the huge spikes of low and high pressure which occur when the injectors fire off- with snubbers the needles read reasonably flat and make for easy to record numbers. Glycerin helps ins similar way but also adds lubrication to the gage adds life and removes any problems associated with fogging. Vibration and pulsing can make gages fail early and or cause them to fall well out of spec.
I also use glycerin in the boost gages for its lubricating, dampening, and fog resistance properties.
Yes - I would use the gage in your post , it would be nice if they posted an accuracy spec as I aim for 2% but practically speaking with what we measure here 5% is more than fine.
Yes - there easily could be fuel in that hose.
15' runs -I don't know as I have never tried a run that far. If it were me I would "T" in the fitting and temporarily 'try' the 15' coiled swapping it back to a very short hose to see if there is a difference. If there is no appreciable change in reading between the two I would go for the 15' run.

Note - Whenever you "T" into a fuel line or add any fitting always keep in mind the resistance those fittings can make. Otherwise said use less of a degree in bends (ie 30 rather than 90) use full port valves and when "T"ing in a gage place the gage on the out of flow leg as opposed to inline - it does not need any appreciable flow rate to work but the engine does.
FWIW - I just reached Kingston NY yesterday and the fuel gages worked very well along the way showing just a tad more restriction during our longer trip up here.

Hope this helps
 
Ok. I looked at my filters and each filter has 2 inputs and 2 outputs on the top. Could I just pop the screw out of the output and pop in the gauge? I do t even have to tee it. It can be mounted horizontally and I can still read it.
 
"Could I just pop the screw out of the output and pop in the gauge?"
I am not familiar with those filter heads but if they are ported together that would work well.

"It can be mounted horizontally and I can still read it."
Or - you can use an "L" at the outlet port of the filter orienting it in the up position. I am not sure about the gage you have but when I filled mine with glycerin the fill plug is at the top and I would want to avoid orienting that to make it easier to drip/leak.
 
Looks something like this.

ED87B794-C953-44AE-855B-902373C4A5B3_zpsbfg3j28n.png


I see aero son top of each hole that show flow. I see what looks like each side as one in and one out. So ell from one of the outflows?
 
Looks like it is ported straight thru so one outlet will go to the engine and the other can be used for the gage.
When working with fitting threads used for diesel fuel please avoid using teflon tape (even the yellow type)and use a good diesel safe sealant like Permatex #2 or any other equivalent.
Hope this helps
 
I actually looked today and there is a vent hole on the outlet side heading to the engine at the top of the filter.
I think can screw gauge right in there. That is inline with fuel flowing out.
 
quote:
Originally posted by CurrentSea

So got more info. The pickup tube from the tank was clogged. They had to find the access panels to the fuel tank which is buried under the salon floor. It is not in the Er. They cleaned up the pickup tube. The filters are fine. The crud never made it to the filters.

I think when we had that rough run in the ocean it must of stirred up the crud. The genset has much smaller lines than the motors.

I added biobor jf and I don't know if it is that or them cleaning the pickup tube but my genny is purring like a kitten. Seriously. It is quieter and running better than it ever did. I took a ride to mix up the biobor and the motors ran fine too.

I added startron diesel stabilizer as well. Coming out in a week for winter. Will change fuel filters in spring and hope for the best.

Guess I could of fixed this myself if I dug deeper. Probably if I had clear bowls which I am going to add I would of saw they were empty and not getting fuel.

I read more on the filter bowls and ABYC says only metal bowls should be used below decks and plastic bowls are used only for outboards. I saw where they said most manufacturers break this rule using plastic clear bowls below decks. The plastic bowls flashover point is too quick. But I have to say if I have a fire that can melt a bowl, can't it also melt a rubber fuel line? My concern would be if I did have a fire that insurance would see the plastic bowl and not pay out. So perhaps I stick with my metal bowls.

Click to expand...


the good news is you found the problem, unless I missed something the underlying problem has not been fixed yet. the biobor will help in diminishing the growth of algea however you still need to have the fuel tank(s) cleaned. there are dockside services that offer fuel polishing service and its not generally costly. but definitely something you still need to do. the biobor will not remove the junk already in the tank it will only kill it if its still alive.
 
I think we are over thinking this. You don't know what is on your tanks so to begin I would have them cleaned then just use what you have. You are not making long passages just change filter every 100 hours or year and cut them pen to see what's up.
 
Dave if you are not already, you should become a member of boatdiesel.com.
 
I don't know how that post got refreshed. I think it was posted long ago.
 
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