Misc. Questions

R

Rick D

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Hello all.

A few questions:

For courtesy lights, interior and exterior, is there any benefit to replacing a light fixture with an LED light fixture vs. just replacing the bulb with an LED bulb?

For a remote oil filter assembly, the base that mounts to the engine is marked OUT and IN and those hoses lead to the remote assembly also marked OUT and IN. Am I correct that the OUT from the engine should run to the IN on the remote and vice versa for the other line?

For laminate/vinyl floors on the interior cabin, is marine grade plywood necessary for a sub floor or can regular pressure treated 1/4" or 1/2" plywood be used instead?

Thanks,

--Rick
 
Replacing old bulbs with LED's are OK. On the remote oil filter yes you are correct. On the floor depends how's the Humidity Pressure treated 1/2" should be OK.
 
marine ply has all voids filled and uses waterproof glue. Virtually all ply today uses waterproof glue but to be sure ues EX (exterior) grade. Marine ply is a waste of money on a interior sub floor.
 
The downside to replacing an incandescent bulb with an LED bulb is you are still in the same fix with regard to contact corrosion as you are with the incandescent bulb. You do however get the advantage of having lower power consumtion that all LED's represent. For me, I replace the entire fixture because a pure LED fixture has virtually no corrosion possiblities since the power leads are potted into the LED. For me if I am going to go to the expense of going LED I want all the advantages a pure LED installation represents. Corrosion resistance and lower power consumption.
 
Agree with Bruce except for the statement that marine plywood has all the voids filled. That was original criteria of marine plywood but only in the top pricier brands of marine plywood is that true these days. Back in the 80's big box stores (Home Depot, etc) started selling lower grades of marine (or so it was stamped MARINE) and it was not void free. Unless specifically budgeted, I use AC exterior if it is going to be laminated. I also avoid pressure treated unless it's not going to be laminated. Some of the oils in the pressure treatment may be resistant to adhesion of laminates.
 
Are there bilges under the sub floor where water might accumulate? If so, is marine ply all that more expensive? If there is a bilge under there, consider painting the underside with something like Bilge Kote regardless. What happened to the sub floor the carpet was on?

As for the oil in/out, who installed the filter. If a prior owner (PO), well, you never know what someone's personal labeling protocol is, in which case I'd have a mechanic double check it if you can't figure it out from the engine manual or through observation.

GeeBee's point about the fixtures is very well taken. An item moving up The List for me is switching out a bunch of halogen fixtures a PO installed that uses the small bulbs with the little G4 pins. Corrosion is taking its toll and no amount of attempted sprays of contact cleaner into the tiny holes seems to be working. On many of the lights, you can get it to work if you poke the bulb, but it immediate y goes out when released. Very frustrating since they are nice fixtures in some very nice headliner and finding exact physical replacements is difficult.
 
quote:
Originally posted by caltexfla

Are there bilges under the sub floor where water might accumulate? If so, is marine ply all that more expensive? If there is a bilge under there, consider painting the underside with something like Bilge Kote regardless. What happened to the sub floor the carpet was on?

As for the oil in/out, who installed the filter. If a prior owner (PO), well, you never know what someone's personal labeling protocol is, in which case I'd have a mechanic double check it if you can't figure it out from the engine manual or through observation.

Click to expand...


There is an existing glassed subfloor down now... it's just too uneven to put a vinyl down on top of. I pulled the carpet up and it looks great structurally... but vinyl would show every bump and glue resin left behind. I could sand it to get it to level out, but then I would actually be removing some of the glass itself. Also, on the left side of the cabin, the glass floor has a channel.... perhaps for water runoff if the cabin were to take water through a port window. It's only 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch deep so you never noticed it with the carpet, but with vinyl it would show.

Ideally I would love to use a laminated plywood like birch or maple since they have such a smooth surface... but they are not pressure treated. Given that this is for an interior floor application on top of existing glass floor... can I get away with a non pressure treated sub floor like birch or maple... or is this just asking for problems?

Re, the oil filter setup... I installed it brand new from Michigan Motors. It has no directions, but the OUT and IN are labeled on both the base and remote. It makes sense that the OUT at the base would run to the IN on the remote.

--Rick
 
Not to hijack the thread, but I want to replace my removable cabin floor again this year. I'm not at all happy with he performance of the wood and I bought it from a lumber supplier - not a big-box store. The wood is too soft and has absorbed enough water to mildew on the underside. I had used multiple coats of varnish thinking it would be an adequate water sealer. Is bilge paint (on the underside) better for this?
 
There ia a padding that goes under the vinyl, (lonseal)this should help level things out. Glue down padding first, then glue vinyl over the padding. Driange channel, fill and level with west systems. Easy job. I made templates to confirm fit. Trim is availabe for hatches. I found all supplies at Plasteak.

Ron
 
quote:
Originally posted by DUSTCUTTER

There ia a padding that goes under the vinyl, (lonseal)this should help level things out. Glue down padding first, then glue vinyl over the padding. Driange channel, fill and level with west systems. Easy job. I made templates to confirm fit. Trim is availabe for hatches. I found all supplies at Plasteak.

Ron

Click to expand...


Ron, so you are saying no additional sub floor needs to be added? Glue to existing and the padding will absorb any unevenness?

--Rick
 
Your current sub floor should be ok. Run a sander with 60 grit over the floor, vacuum, wipe with denatured alcohol, let dry and glue padding down. Padding will hide imperfections up to 3/16". Cut your seam lines on the edge of the Holly. Glue Holly edge next to Teak. Rolls come 72" wide. Use a long straight edge. Always make templates. Remember to always review your Holly lines. This way your eye picks up the flow. For your carpeted vertical areas, check out Timber.

Ron
 
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