Motor Oil after Break-in?

J

jmas

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Just installed reman. GM 454 Gas inboard engine.(Carb./Flat Tappets)

Engine manufacturer requires using Rotella 15-40 oil during break-in period to keep engine under warrenty. I understand that Rotella is for Deisel engines.
Is Rotella a good oil to continue using after initial Break-in.? I have read that many Boaters use it in there Gas engines.
 
I run it.

...and I add ZDDP. A zinc additive for my flat tappet 400 ci small block chevy (SBC) but didn't use the additive during cam break-in.
 
I ran Rotella for years. Like other oil companies, Rotella comes in more than one variety.

George
 
quote:
Originally posted by jmas

Click to expand...


there is only one authority to get the correct answer to this question, the mfg. that rebuilt and is warrantying the engine. the recommended oil will have an API designation as well as a type/weight. follow the min API designation. you can google the API designations to see which is the most current. as long as you stick the type/weight indicated with an API designation at or above the one specified you are good. anything else is guessing.
 
quote:
Originally posted by vic33004

quote:
Originally posted by jmas

Click to expand...


there is only one authority to get the correct answer to this question, the mfg. that rebuilt and is warrantying the engine. the recommended oil will have an API designation as well as a type/weight. follow the min API designation. you can google the API designations to see which is the most current. as long as you stick the type/weight indicated with an API designation at or above the one specified you are good. anything else is guessing.

Click to expand...

vic33004,
Just spoke to PROMAR MARINE, They suggest using a good grade 40 wgt conventional oil after break-in period. (not Rotella for Diesel)
Means changing 12 Quarts of almost new oil and 2 oil filters.(2 Engines)[:-cry]
 
quote:
Originally posted by jmas

quote:
Originally posted by vic33004

quote:
Originally posted by jmas

Click to expand...


there is only one authority to get the correct answer to this question, the mfg. that rebuilt and is warrantying the engine. the recommended oil will have an API designation as well as a type/weight. follow the min API designation. you can google the API designations to see which is the most current. as long as you stick the type/weight indicated with an API designation at or above the one specified you are good. anything else is guessing.

Click to expand...

vic33004,
Just spoke to PROMAR MARINE, They suggest using a good grade 40 wgt conventional oil after break-in period. (not Rotella for Diesel)
Means changing 12 Quarts of almost new oil and 2 oil filters.(2 Engines)[:-cry]

Click to expand...

After break in that will probably be the most "Used" oil you will ever have in your engine. It will be contaminated with fine metal particles that you want out of the engine.
 
Use it forever diesel oil is designed for heavy loads that cant hurt gassers. IMO howeveryou could use the cheapest oil you can find and never have an oil related failure in a boat.
 
I would use rotella forever. It has scuff reducing ingredients designed for heavy load diesels that can't hurt gassers. But in reality you could use any oil and probably never have an oil related failure. You need to bebcome famiar with SAE oil specs as there are few modern oils not rated for both diesel and gas. Read the spec don't listen to the dock talk.
 
If you check the classification label on the container I believe you will see it is specified not only for specific diesel engine "C" ratings (for Compression ignition) , but also for all Spark-ignition/gas engines as indicated by a "S" as in SM or the latest classification, "SN".

FWIW- In my gassers, I have always used Valvoline "All-fleet Plus" (now "Blue") 15W-40 HD "diesel" oil which also has the latest "S" classification rating for gas engines. That is almost certainly overkill since I change oil & filters at ~~50 hr intervals and for economy generally cruise at well less than 75% of WOT. But, as Charlie says, it also can't hurt, may help under abnormal circumstances that engines sometimes experience, and it's not as expensive as Rotella.
 
IMO they just don't want you to use a synthetic before break in
 
Yup, that's why I didn't add the ZDDP during cam break-in,

The cam break-in consists of running the engine about 2000 RPM for 20 minutes during initial start-up. Some people use slightly different numbers for the break-in but the purpose is to mate the cam to the lifters. The cam lobes don't have any direct lubrication. It gets it's oil from both leak down from the lifters and splash from the crankshft counter weights splashing oil all around the inside of the block. That's the reason for the 2000 RPM.
 
"I would use rotella forever. It has scuff reducing ingredients designed for heavy load diesels that can't hurt gassers. But in reality you could use any oil and probably never have an oil related failure."

+1 - exactly true.
 
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