I noticed a new offering from the Homer store called Cellular PVC. It comes in 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch thick 4x8 foot sheets and I was considering using it to replace some delaminated plywood in my cockpit area. It appeals to me because it's white and that matches my white gelcoat and not being plywood, I likely wouldn't have to replace it again. I wonder if it's the same as the Starboard product. I wonder how easy/hard it is to cut? I guess I should just assume it will trash any saw blade and plan accordingly. Has anyone seen it or tried to use it for anything? I was just curious.
New Cellular PVC - update with pics
- Thread starter Stephen
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"wonder if it's the same as the Starboard product."
Hmmmm.
PVC = "Poly Vinyl Chloride"
Starboard = HDPE = "High Density PolyEthylene"
Not the same...
Hmmmm.
PVC = "Poly Vinyl Chloride"
Starboard = HDPE = "High Density PolyEthylene"
Not the same...
PS. The area of my cockpit I'm talking about are the side pieces. They only hold brackets for the seats with the weight of the seat occupants transferring to the floor through "H" frames. They also hold no weight from above or have any railings attached.
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Starboard is nice, but for anything approaching structural, I would avoid it.
In this instance. PVC might be preferable. I am not familiar with "cellular PVC" however.
If you choose Starboard, I would strongly suggest the material handling info sheet:
https://www.tapplastics.com/uploads/pdf/Working-with-King-StarBoard.pdf
As I said, it is a nice product, but you need to handle it properly or you will be disappointed.
In this instance. PVC might be preferable. I am not familiar with "cellular PVC" however.
If you choose Starboard, I would strongly suggest the material handling info sheet:
https://www.tapplastics.com/uploads/pdf/Working-with-King-StarBoard.pdf
As I said, it is a nice product, but you need to handle it properly or you will be disappointed.
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There are a number of PVC based products, they re pretty good. PVC, starboard are not hard on cutting tools
I have been using starboard for year for many projects including dinghy chocks which could be called structural. It is very strong and while it can’t be glued, screws hold extremely well.
I have been using starboard for year for many projects including dinghy chocks which could be called structural. It is very strong and while it can’t be glued, screws hold extremely well.
I think I'll try it. The worst thing that could happen is I lose 100 bucks. I'll use a backing plate of scrap material and a T nut for my seat bracket. That's already more than the number 12 screws I have holding them into the plywood. I'll report back when I complete the project.
I think I'll try it. The worst thing that could happen is I lose 100 bucks. I'll use a backing plate of scrap material and a T nut for my seat bracket. That's already more than the number 12 screws I have holding them into the plywood. I'll report back when I complete the project.
(Cellular) PVC stock has become very popular in use for long-life, low maintenance house trim, and materials for fencing for example. Azek is one of the better known names.
Easy to work with using regular woodworking tools, though trying to cut too fast with electric saws can result in some plastic melt on the blades. Neither PVC or StarBoard are really considered structural but I suspect PVC of same size has a little more strength. Backing designs where feasible improves strength.
Unpainted PVC is easier to clean than StarBoard, and a major advantage of PVC is it can be cemented to another section of PVC with common plumber's PVC cleaner & cement ( & brief clamping). In breakage tests I've made, the 2 cemented pieces (edge to edge) would break in the "field" before the cemented ( chemically fused) joint, and it took a lot to break any of it. (Starboard can be bonded but generally only with special expensive bonding agents, some of which require flame treatment of the StarBoard prior to binding.)
Also less expensive that StarBoard
Easy to work with using regular woodworking tools, though trying to cut too fast with electric saws can result in some plastic melt on the blades. Neither PVC or StarBoard are really considered structural but I suspect PVC of same size has a little more strength. Backing designs where feasible improves strength.
Unpainted PVC is easier to clean than StarBoard, and a major advantage of PVC is it can be cemented to another section of PVC with common plumber's PVC cleaner & cement ( & brief clamping). In breakage tests I've made, the 2 cemented pieces (edge to edge) would break in the "field" before the cemented ( chemically fused) joint, and it took a lot to break any of it. (Starboard can be bonded but generally only with special expensive bonding agents, some of which require flame treatment of the StarBoard prior to binding.)
Also less expensive that StarBoard
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I have been using this product for a couple of years for shelving frankly I don't the the 1/2" boards are strong enough much too flexible and it bends and holds the shape. The starboard is a much denser product and would be a better choice!
I also don't like the way the PVC scratches easily and doesn't clean very well. This said it's inexpensive so if you want experiment a little. I think you would be disappointed!
,
I also don't like the way the PVC scratches easily and doesn't clean very well. This said it's inexpensive so if you want experiment a little. I think you would be disappointed!
,
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I epoxied a piece on my swim platform where the dink's skeg rests several years ago. I did not want to run screws through the swim platform. It appears to be holding good.
Ken
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FWIW - PVC does not like sunlight.
HDPE is, for all practical purposes, the same as nylon. It can be fused with flame but I've just used screws. I've been using it for decades as cutting boards onboard and at home. Can be used as side boards and small hinged lids. Doesn't hold smell...as in cut bait.
I have an update. I purchased the product and cut the new pieces to fit. I used a 60 tooth blade and it did not harm the blade at all. It did, however, demonstrate that the material makes a mess while cutting. It also seems to be softer than I expected. As a result, I shall use pan head style screws instead of counter-sinking to avoid damaging the material. I haven't decided yet on #10 or #12, but I will use stainless. I also have replaced some nailers behind the old boards as they were in poor shape too. So I am confident that I have good backing for installation and I will probably install screws every 4-6 inches around the edges. I shall also apply a very thin bead of 5200 where the edge contacts the fiberglass for a waterproof install.
That doesn't apply to the outdoor trim , moulding, rail ,decking, sheet, etc. stock including fencing that has UV protection throughout the products so it holds up better than wood in sunlight.
Most Azek outdoor PVC stock has that UV protection though they do make at least one product which requires paint protection within something like 5 or 6 months I believe.
Apparently StarBoard and other HPDE stock can be bonded well with Chem-Set 1605 Polyolefin Bonder. No flame treatment needed 1st. So far this appears to be the best bonding agent available for ("slippery') HPDE.
Check the video in this link:
https://www.chemical-concepts.com/chem-set-6105-polyolefin-bonder-50ml.html
BUt the Chem-Set has a short shelf life, so one should not buy it and leave it on the shelf in case it was needed in a year or so.
Check the video in this link:
https://www.chemical-concepts.com/chem-set-6105-polyolefin-bonder-50ml.html
BUt the Chem-Set has a short shelf life, so one should not buy it and leave it on the shelf in case it was needed in a year or so.
