New to this... Need a starter kit

quote:
Originally posted by GonzoF1

I just looked at my angle grinder. It isn't a variable speed. So I assume it's out as a possibility. 11,000 rpms is a tad fast ;)

Ok... Let me see if I got all this:

Wash boat with Dawn or Kitt or Macguire's (I'm fairly sure there is no wax on it now so Dawn seems like the cheapest way to go) Can I leave it like this for a week?

Dawn for the first wash only.

Then use Buff Magic (?) With a buffer I don't own yet :(

Based on your discription of the finish I'd say, again, you'll need to compound and polish before you protect the finish.

Then use Pro Polish or Zanio. With the same buffer I still don't own.

By hand.

Then only wash with Macguire's or Turtle Wax Car Soap after that.

Yes.

Are these the same steps for topside or is this just for the hull?

Both.

Can you do this from a dingy? I mean, not sure I want to be holding a spinning electric power tool while floating around in a nine-foot rubber boat :)

A floating platform is easier. But it can be done from a dink.

And what about the non-skid? Starbrite?

Clean but don't polish. You can protect it with Woody's Wax for nonskid. What kind do you have? Sand like or molded in?

Are all horizontal surfaces non-skid

No.Only the rough or patterned ones.

Do you wash them separately than anything else?

No.

Sorry for all the dumb questions.

No problem. They are not dumb. Yet. :-)

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>>Based on your description of the finish I'd say, again, you'll need to compound and polish before you protect the finish.

Thanks Bill... So Pro Polish BEFORE trying to wax? Is Pro Polish a rubbing compound/polishing compound? It can stand alone as a top coat from what I am reading, right?
 
You don't apply wax over polymers like Pro Polish. That is the final step. Many of us have gotten away from using wax as it yellows the gelcot.
 
What Gregory said.

And Pro Polish is miss named IMO. It is a protectant like Zaino or a wax is a protectant. It doesn't really polish anything.

And like Gregory indicated, wax is a waste of money with products like Zaino and Pro Polish around.
 
"I forgot to mention that I talked to a guy who was washing a Bristol condition Bristol that is moored a couple of slips away from us. He mentioned mixing Wisk, Bleach and tri-sodium phosphate. What is this all about?"

He was destroying his teak decks most likely. :-)
 
Capt Bill, Yes I miss read. My apologies. And I agree about the teak decks.
 
One more quick question then: Where does Buff Magic fit into the timeline? Do I even need to try and use it then because it sounds like Pro Polish will be enough after washing? (ok... that was two quick questions... sorry)

**SIDE NOTE** The guy washing the Bristol was using some brand of boat soap. He was just saying that the Wisk-tri-bleach mixture might be something I might want to try on stubborn stuff.
 
Pro Polish will not remove oxidation. You won't get a good result if you use pro Polish on an oxidized surface. Buff Magic is the first step and should be applied with a rotary buffer. Pro polish can be applied and removed by hand.
 
Perhaps someone needs to define oxidation for me and what it looks and feels like before I decide if ours is actually in that condition. I suppose I should have asked this earlier.

**Shadowcruzr** Can you contact me via email at tobeaty(at)gmail(dot)com, please? Thanks.
 
Oxidation will make the gel coat look dull ... rubbing your hand over it may leave a "chalky" sunstance on your hand. Try some rubbing coumpound on a small area (Buff Magic) and see the difference!
 
quote:
Originally posted by psalzer

Makita 9227
9227c.jpg


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I second the Makita. It is a must have!!!!! With plenty of pads. Don't skimp on this. I did and learned a valuable leason when I got the Makita.

I see you're in NC. Here is what I would do. Give your boat a good washing and wash it regularly for the rest of your season. If you can get some wax (meguaires or 3m) on the top sides then great. Maybe use woody wax on the non-skid. Enjoy your new boat for the next few months. Then .....

Haul her out for the winter. Compound the entire boat (buff magic seems to be recomended here, or use any liquid compound). Follow up with the polish or wax. I have used pro-polish. It was OK. I have found the 3m Cleaner/Wax works better for me (easier to get on short notice).

You will have a much better time getting this done on land than in the water. You can also check bottom paint, etc. while it is out. Good luck.
 
If your gelcoat doesn't shine when you wash it and it drys, it's oxidized.
 
Mr. Clean Magic Eraser. Believe it or not, I clean pretty much my whole boat with magic erasers, inside and out. They're great for getting black scuff marks off white boats.
 
Thanks for the tip. Just got back from Overton's with 3M Cleaner/Wax. Going to wash the topsides once with Dawn then once with Maguires (or twice with Maguires) then start on the flybridge surround with the 3M. I'm not sure what the sundeck surround is made of. It looks like painted plywood, but we'll see how fare we get.
 
I have two of the Makita buffers. I replaced the velcro pads with the double sided pads from Boat Fix. You have to get the shaft adapter tho. Velcro pads kept flying off. Double sided ones screw on. I prefer Tre*Wax heavy duty compound. It is a paste and I apply it with a paint brush. It doesnt sling off like a liquid. Then I follow with Finesse-it, then the wax.
 
When you are finished, you should be able to see your reflection in the gelcoat. Not like a mirror, but a good reflection none the less.

Before I start to clean my boat, I thoroughly wet it with dock water. This allows wetting of spider and bird poop so it comes off without scrubbing.

After my boat has been detailed, I wash it with plain water and towel dry every week. About once a month I use Jet Wax auto wash 'n wax and thoroughly rinse, then dry.

My boat is detailed only once a year. It is 18 yrs old and stored in a shed out of the sun. Sun causes the oxidation much more quickly.
 
quote:
Originally posted by GonzoF1

Thanks for the tip. Just got back from Overton's with 3M Cleaner/Wax. Going to wash the topsides once with Dawn then once with Maguires (or twice with Maguires) then start on the flybridge surround with the 3M. I'm not sure what the sundeck surround is made of. It looks like painted plywood, but we'll see how fare we get.

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Again, based on your discription of the boat I would start with 3M Restorer then 3M Cleaner wax.

Now if after then you want to apply Pro Polish or Zaino you will need top wash off all the wax you just put on.

Good Luck.

("You can lead a horse to water." Just came to mind. :-))
 
*UPDATE* I tried a small-ish area front of flybridge) with 3M Cleaner wax and it really didn't give me the result I was looking for. It really didn't change anything. It made it nice and smooth, but it didn't shine it at all. That said, I did it all by hand. Perhaps I'll try and borrow a buffer before I go buy one and see if THAT helps.

So what we are doing is just giving her a good cleaning every week with Maguires car wash for now until we can figure out how to add a shine to her.

Next question: What do you use on stainless? Currently I'm using a super-fine grit steel wool to lightly remove the surface rust and some NeverDull after that. It's there a way to come back and make it shine like chrome?
 
STOP with the steel wool! Unless you want small rust stains all over the boat.

The only way to get the SS back to a very high polish is to either take it off and have it polished by a pro. Or multi step polish it yourself with a drill or something using polishing wheels. And then never use anything more abrasive then very fine polish to polish it after that.
 
On the stainless, use Prism Polish once to deep clean and restore luster and then clean/maintain with Collinite Metal Wax after that. I have tried any number of products and this is what works. Our boat is in salt and brackish water year around and gets cruised up and down the east coast. The stainless you have on board may or may not have been designed to have a chrome like finish to begin with. Prism Polish is expensive, but a little goes a very long way and there are multiple uses, including window restoration and polishing the Admiral's jewelry and silverware.

George
Hatteras 56MY and many yards of stainless tubing!
 
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