No Longer a Bad day working on my boat (renamed)

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Rick D

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Well, as I had posted a couple of weeks ago, I ran my engines for the first time the other day. Starboard ran well. Port did not. The survey (back in October) indicated the port had great compression but idled rough and ran rough and probably "in need of a carb overhaul". Well... it' s not the carb. I've run it on muffs now twice and had to shop vac the water from the exhaust outside the boat on the ground because of the layer of oil on top of it. Exhaust smoke was grey and where the water pulled around the grass, there were clumps of white/yellow milky oil clusters. So, I thought for sure I was looking at a blown head gasket on one of the heads. Removed both heads and the gaskets are OK. No sign of any breaks or any indication water is leaking by the gasket. Brought one of the heads to a machine shop.... will pressure test tomorrow, but the owner said just by looking at it an putting a straight edge on it, there was going to be nothing wrong with the head.

Pulled the intake manifold and near the back section is a large splatter pattern of white milky water/oil. Unfortunately, everything points to a cracked block, but I don't see visible indication of such. This is really frustrating... ruined my day to say the least. Don't have any excess cash right now to put in a new motor... was wondering how I was going to pay for a slip anyway... looks like that might not be a problem now.

Will call 800runsnew tomorrow and see what kind of deal I can get on a Merc 5.7L block & head setup.

--Rick
 
So sorry to read this Rick. All the best with this unexpected development!
 
Welcome to boating.
Sry ur off to a bad start
 
Depending on you mechanical abilities and the condition of the heads, you may be able to get away with a short block.
 
quote:
Originally posted by boatcomfort

HI Rick!

Sorry to hear that. Try jasper They are good.

Click to expand...

Personally I have seen mixed reviews on the marine engines I have no 1st hand knowledge. However I use them for our company fleet of trucks and vans for engines and transmissions they have great warranties. I had thier NASCAR performance division build me a custom 302 with 351 Windsor worked heads and a roller cam and valve train. The high performance engine bolts to a matching C6 worked transmission for my 66 Mustang. They also built me a custom 9" rear for the Mustag as well it runs like a raped Ape.
The Mustang package cost almost $65k.
Bill
 
I understand Rick. I had to put three blocks into my old Fiberform Stb side. Luckily they were Merc 140's though.

How about the boat I got free that had a 1934 Star four cylinder. Rusted plumb out. Replaced it with a 42 Willys, but it had Oil problmes. Finally found a 25 Hp Greymarine, but then had to buy a Reversing gear, shaft Propl and log.
I just wonder if boating is fun or masochistic exercize.
 
Pix would sure be nice. Nothing you've said specifically points to a cracked block. A simple loose intake could leak water into the block and heads.

If you're gonna tear down the engine much further, it might be worth going the whole route and get the block magna-fluxed, but before that, have someone who knows what their looking at give it a once over
 
Thanks everyone.

rb2@gr5tCharlie, you are correct...I am second guessing my cracked block assumption. I made that based on what the machine shop guy said about the heads and indicated most likely that it was a block issue. But I took the intake manifold down to a fellow who has spent his career in the marine industry and the yellow spray pattern I saw... insisted it was moisture and was willing to bet that the exhaust manifold was corroded internally and allowing water to get back into the cylinders. This would certainly explain why the engine was acting like it was missing while it was running and why the exhaust was gray. The engine could have been spitting gas out of the cylinders instead of burning it. The real test comes today in two parts. First, I will remove the oil filter and check the engine oil for water... did not see any on the dipstick, but that is harder to see there. Next I will turn the engine over manually so I can check the lining of each cylinder walls for a crack. I've been told that while it may not be visible, I should be able to feel a inconsistenacy with my finger nail.

My initial post was typed up a bit prematurely as it was essentially a knee jerk reaction. Should have waited until I knew more. Certainly not out of the woods yet, but there is hope. I had replaced 4 elbows and 1 manifold previously. I have since ordered the other 3 manifolds. Assuming the oil and block check out visibly, when the heads come back, it goes back together and I try again.

--Rick
 
Rick: My suggestion is that you check the cylinders, as you indicated. Personally, I don't think you'll find anything. My recommendation is that you buy a new gasket set and a set of manifolds and risers. You indicated that the manifolds might be corroded so that's a good investment. Put everything back together, change the oil and filter, and run the engine. See if your problem's been corrected. Watch your oil pressure. It water sat in the oil, it may have damaged your bearings. Run a compression check. If everything is OK, go enjoy your boat. If you still have the same "oily" problem, you know you need a short block. If needed, you could buy an auto short block and marinize it by changing the cam and the freeze plugs. Good luck and let us know the outcome. Hy
 
I think you're on the right track. Lets hope for the best.

Comp test and leak down should be done on a questionable block, but it's not a guarantee of finding a crack.

EX manifolds are the MOST susceptible to corrosion, not only from water but because of the hot exhaust. There are thin areas on the underside of older cast-iron INTAKE that have an exhaust crossover to heat the carb. That has been known to eat thru. Vortec heads don't even have the cross-over.
 
If you choose to marinize an auto short block, do NOT use any "auto" replacement electrical components. Only marine parts have spark protection, a necessity to prevent gas fumes from exploding in the enclosed engine compartment. Just a word to the wise and any newbies who may be reading this thread..... Better safe then sorry!
 
Are you sure its not the engine oil cooler?

Just trying to keep it simple and (possibly) save you a few bucks....
 
Don't loose faith yet. Follow the road you are on until it leads you to an answer don't get all worked up before you know what the damage is. I know this is easy advice to give and hard to follow but everyone here has experienced something like this at one point or another and we are all still here.
 
quote:
Originally posted by Audrey II

Don't loose faith yet.

Click to expand...


Thanks. Haven't yet. After taking a look the cylinder walls this past weekend, I'm fairly hopeful my problems were caused by a carb running very rich combined with water in the cylinders from bad manifolds.

I have the new manifolds sitting in front of me... just waiting on the head gaskets and i start putting it back together. Will know definitively by the weekend.

Will keep everyone posted.

--Rick

edit - spelling
 
Just remember that a bad day on the boat is almost always better than a good day at work! :)
 
Hmmm, Friend of mine up here in MA was just asking me last night if I knew anyone looking for a brand new 5.7 litre, guy paid 3500 the story goes, but he's not around and 2 grand will do it, it might have 5 hrs on it he said, not sure of the details, it's in a reputable marine transmission shop in Salem.....
My yahoo email is gw256
Not sure of the rotation but it was going in a single screw
 
quote:
Originally posted by Grady Wahoo

Hmmm, Friend of mine up here in MA was just asking me last night if I knew anyone looking for a brand new 5.7 litre, guy paid 3500 the story goes,

Click to expand...


Thanks Mike. If when I get it back together this weekend and things go south, I will be in touch.

--Rick
 
BillyIII, I know Jasper does a lot of work for Penske's Nascar teams, but isn't Jasper owned by Penske now also?
I think they do a lot of driveline and tranny work for many other racers, too.
 
Reninstalled the 2 heads with new gaskets, new intake manifold gaskets and new exhaust manifolds.

Installed the distributor at TDC. Put the key in, held my breath, turned it and it started up immediately and had a very clean idle at 900 rpms.

Couldn't be more relieved. My boat gets dropped in on June 7... I have asked the yard to tune both carbs and adjust the timing on both.

Now I can focus on my punch list of smaller items to be addressed before the 7 comes around.

--Rick
 
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