Old outboard question evinrude water flow

Z

zane

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Jan 11, 2006
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19940
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I have a 1990 v4 90hp evinrude on my skiff. Thing won't die, but closer to death today.

I replaced the water pump bit I am not seeing any water flow through the engine. I thought it may be the thermostats, so I pulled them and the housing. Even when I start motor with all that removed I am not seeing water where the thermostat housing bolts up. Did I miss align the water tube when I reinstalled the lower unit? Any ideas?
 
I think you are going to have to lower the LU again to check. The lower tube grommet may have gotten jammed in the pump outlet . Or key fell out of the impeller hub, or o-ring seal may be out of it's groove\\ allowing in air , or.....?
 
If you're running this o/b out of the water, on earmuffs, and can see the water pouring right back out of the prop hub, then probably YES. A service manual will show the water flow through the engine. My recall is the t'stats are right before water exits the powerhead, but that's the way many if not most water cooled engines operate.

Check your model number, but my looking up shows this as an engine with "water deflectors." See http://www.crowleymarine.com/parts/13397.cfm. They force cooling water into certain patterns around the cylinders. If they are missing, OR if they swell excessively, the flow pattern changes and overheating can result. They're only pieces cut from a length of what looks like automotive vacuum hose. I ordered a piece of space-age material(silicone or something like that) hose. Made deflectors for a 150-hp V6 we had, in the hope they'd neither deteriorate nor swell. Doesn't happen all that much, but if the heads have to come off they should be inspected to make sure they're still there, complete, not distorted. Don't let it go back together without them!
 
Sandy listed several more possibilities.

Did you perchance run the pump DRY? I did that once thinking my old flush attachment would feed water to my new motor. Would not. Wouldn't flow water and ran hot when I got the proper flush attachment. Turned out the dry impeller got the stainless steel "cup" that lined the plastic pump housing SO HOT that it changed position. Rotated a little. That caused the cup to cover one of the pump ports and no output.
 
Many years ago I ran a motor dry for just a short time and killed the impeller. I'm fastidious with the water ever since. I guess I just have to drop lower unit again. Such a pain disconnecting the linkage but have no choice. Thanks for the input.
 
Special screw with a blunt point on it that goes through the linkage crosswise, under the carburetors?

I think I made something to help with the linkage, but it's been too long and I forget. Vaguely I think I aligned it from the wrong side with a longer rod, about 3/16" diameter, then put the screw through from the correct side. I know I used a screw starter in the slot of that screw.

I think part of it is getting the screw started straight. Thinking maybe I tried a 3/8" flex socket, 1/4" drive, and jammed the screw head in place wrapped in black electrical tape. Then I could flex the socket to pick up the exact angle to start the threads.

I DO remember the lower mounts (on sides of motor housing, above the cav plate) swelling and throwing the shift out of engagement range. I replaced the mounts only to have the new ones swell almost as much right away. I remember unscrewing the shift rod a couple turns and re-connecting the linkage. That centered it back up. OMC has a spec, want to say 19-1/2" in a certain gear (which I forget and don't have a manual) from lower gearcase surface to hole in shift rod. If it was 19-1/2" this would make it say 19-9/16" and the shift would work right again. At first I'd drop the lower unit, back the rod out, and reinstall. I later found I could take that screw out, get the rod to where it'd turn, and force it around in the space available. There's a spot down low where the rod is exposed about 1/2" and I remmber using a needle-nosed Vise Grip to grab the rod and turn.
 
I have been consumed with water lately. Redid elbows/risers ,hoses,stats and belts on my silverton. Figures the skiff would give me issues. My cuticles haven't been clean in weeks.
 
I hate that. Hands can be "clean" but still "feel dirty" and they are. Just wear white pants or use a white cloth napkin. I find a "grease" really helps. Vaseline, hand lotion, cooking oil... Rub in and wait, wash again. Scrape nails on the greasy hands. I got mahogany stain out of nails/cuticles that way, just a couple weeks ago.

Good luck with that old O/B. If you plan on running it till it dies, you'll have it a long time.
 
Idk what the issue was. Disassembled, reassembled and now pumps fine.

Yeah, she smokes,burns too much gas,is loud but all I ever do is change plugs,pump,lower unit oil and a sea foam treatment each spring. For a do it yourself we I love the simplicity of a 2 stroke.
 
Good deal. It was probably just playing for your attention.
 
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