Please Recommend-BEST IMPELLER PULLER

quote:
Originally posted by RWS

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Sherwood makes a small and large impeller puller tool. on the larger impellers, if you can find it, install one with a threaded tail. on the next change out, simply use a lag bolt into the threads to push the impeller off the shaft, much easier than a puller.

the screw driver method will mar the seats for the o ring and should be avoided.
 
RWS I have 6LY-UTE 315HP with a Johnson pump. I'm not sure how much room you have on your 6LP but the 6LY is very tight. I have found that if I pull the pump it is easy with the Jabsco small impeller puller sixe 2 1/4 - 2 9/16 MFG # 50070-0040.
I can pull it in place with the Jabsco impeller removal tool MFG# 50070-0080. It is still tight but I have done it several times and this is the year for me to replace them again.
I purchased both of these pullers before I found one that will work without removing the pump.
Good luck with your search.
 
quote:
Originally posted by smitty477

Hello November Charlie,
Do you pull the impellers each year? Do you winterize where you are located?

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Nope. 40HP Yamaha outboard. As long as I have good water pressure and flow, I leave it alone. Now that it's sat for two seasons, I'll probably replace it. With the effort already invested to pull the impeller, it's worth the ten to twenty bucks to me to put a new impeller in and KNOW it's good. Rather only drop the lower, or in the case of an inboard, hang upside down contorted in the main space once in a season. Or two seasons or more.

I don't so much winterized as prepare the boat for extended layup. Never gets below freezing here. Much easier than New England - don't have to run pink juice through anything. Salt away, and fogging brew.
 
"Nope. 40HP Yamaha outboard. As long as I have good water pressure and flow, I leave it alone. Now that it's sat for two seasons, I'll probably replace it. With the effort already invested to pull the impeller, it's worth the ten to twenty bucks to me to put a new impeller in and KNOW it's good. Rather only drop the lower, or in the case of an inboard, hang upside down contorted in the main space once in a season. Or two seasons or more."

Yes - I definitely agree with you on this one - I would not pull the impellers either on the 40 HP Yamaha or most other outboards with longer vane impellers. I more or less would go 3-4 seasons on our 40 Yamaha and a few other Yamahas with no ill affects , and the price was not too high to do it anyway.
On some inboards (like Cummins 6C's) the impellers are quite easy to get to but they cost about $100 each so pulling and throwing away each year is not a simple choice. The Hino's I have cost about half that for a decent one and on most of the n=inboards I help pull the impellers they are rather easy to get to. Since I like to pull them during winterizing each season and with a good puller they are easy to do (1/2 hour both sides) it makes it hard to want to throw them away with between 50 and 100 hours on them.
When we do winterize we run saltaway first then regular antifreeze (not pink) for the engines protection then drain.

It would be really great to not have the need to winterize - I like your boating weather better than ours.
 
quote:
Originally posted by Sandy

The 2 sizes of Jabsco pullers have served me well for several years now for my keyed-shaft impellers. When I 1st used one I couldn't believe I had waited so long to make the job so easy. I think the Sea Dog version is probably just about the same.

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=I accidentally bought the large one, it works for me but wished I had bought the smaller one, as you said, makes the job much easier.
 
quote:
Originally posted by smitty477

"Nope. 40HP Yamaha outboard. As long as I have good water pressure and flow, I leave it alone. Now that it's sat for two seasons, I'll probably replace it. With the effort already invested to pull the impeller, it's worth the ten to twenty bucks to me to put a new impeller in and KNOW it's good. Rather only drop the lower, or in the case of an inboard, hang upside down contorted in the main space once in a season. Or two seasons or more."

Yes - I definitely agree with you on this one - I would not pull the impellers either on the 40 HP Yamaha or most other outboards with longer vane impellers. I more or less would go 3-4 seasons on our 40 Yamaha and a few other Yamahas with no ill affects , and the price was not too high to do it anyway.
On some inboards (like Cummins 6C's) the impellers are quite easy to get to but they cost about $100 each so pulling and throwing away each year is not a simple choice. The Hino's I have cost about half that for a decent one and on most of the n=inboards I help pull the impellers they are rather easy to get to. Since I like to pull them during winterizing each season and with a good puller they are easy to do (1/2 hour both sides) it makes it hard to want to throw them away with between 50 and 100 hours on them.
When we do winterize we run saltaway first then regular antifreeze (not pink) for the engines protection then drain.

It would be really great to not have the need to winterize - I like your boating weather better than ours.

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If they're that easy to get to, then you might be on to something. Impellers are one of the few maintenance items that I'm a believer in "if it's demonstrably not broke, don't fix it", but with easy access, and if it gives you peace of mind, I can't see any good reason not to.

The puller I do have (haven't needed to use it in quite a while - I'm all about small boat small problems nowadays. I'll leave big boats big problems for my working hours) worked great on Merc water pumps (not the Alpha Ones - those were, for all intents and purposes, an outboard water pump). Next time I'm out in my garage tonight, I'll dig it out and see what brand it is. It's a simple gear puller type, but always served me well on plastic housing Mercruiser and bronze housing Jabsco pumps. Also the whatever manufacturer Detroit uses pumps. Was Jabsco, then some knockoff or similar type. Hated those ones for the flat head screws instead of cap screws, and the thin boss around the threads on the pump body. Used a cardboardish paper gasket, so you couldn't so much as look twice at the mating surface or it would never seal right again.
 
Hello NC - In general I have found that any impeller that has a very short vane and a larger "ramp" on the eccentric to fail earlier. The impellers with very long vanes which have ramps that are less aggressive with less % of a total lift compared to the vane length last a long time.
I seen this with outboards that have long thin vanes and not so much or a ramp (Yamaha 25, 40, 115, 150 etc) which can easily last 5-7 years with no ill affects. Near the other end of the spectrum are some of the Westerbeke gensets the worst I have seen it is the 15KW which has a very short vane length and a ramp that is near vertical and compresses the impeller so it contacts itself on the hub - they last one year or less and Westy eventually put a refit out on them to lessen the eccentric. Most of the impellers we speak about here are somewhere in between these two extremes but I believe that the relative vane length and ramp can explain much of what we hear in variations of lifetime. Related to this the reaction most impellers have to the "pink' Antifreeze can easily affect the life of that impeller. We get the pre-punched impeller gaskets that seal very well for about $1 each so its just as easy to replace or reuse with a good seal either way (assuming the old one came off clean)
As far as access is concerned on the mains this is a picture of me sitting in the front of the engine right near the raw water pump....

IMG_1024_zps6ff38270.jpg
 
How about a PIX of the other (stbd?) side for the rest of the story.
 
"How about a PIX of the other (stbd?) side for the rest of the story."

Hello Bruce - Don't know if I have one laying around as I was surprised I had this one form down below there.
I am a bit over 6'2" and 230 #'s and have no issues reaching the port side either.
I lay on one side and reach the pump with my arm still well bent so I can still reach the A/C pump that is mounted outboard of that impeller as well. Since the companion way between the engines is quite wide I can also turn around in there as well but I must say as I get older the flexibility I have has seen limits with that.
I would guess that I could remove both from scratch with that home made tool in maybe 10 minutes or so if it was a race.
I have been on one friends 46 Sea Ray that made the impeller a real long day but both sides were a 'blind' job on that install anyway.
Hope this helps
 
Nope - do not have a picture panned all the way to the pump but it is just past the lower pulley in this shot....

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Bruce - What engines & impellers do you have in yours?
 
6C Cummins. My outside access is tight but doable. I generally remove the pump as it is gear driven and that makes checking the tranny cooler for junk an easy part of the job. Working the pump on the bench then becomes a cinch. Age has taken it toll as well however and things are not as easy as they once were.

I have the $%^# Sherwood pumps that leak more than fail impellers.
 
The worst impellers to service I have seen on that Sea Ray were on 6C's - I did not think that they had nearly as poor a pump and pump life on the 6C as the notorious 6b (which I hate and is on many Bayliners). I have seen very good service life on the 6C impellers and pumps just crappy access on the Sea Rays they are in that I know of. The real problems I have seen with the 6C's have been with the intercoolers and with the leaks at the bottom of the turbo's. The zincs, filters, serpentinee belts, etc have all been pretty simple to do with good service life.
For a dozen or so years we cruised for many miles with friends on the 46 Sea Ray Express bridge as our kids and families were always together - became pretty familiar with that boat and engines.
 
Mine is a Carver with straight drives not a SR. at 38000# actual weight I often thought the engines with 33" inch props and 2.9 gears were too big and heavy for the boat. It was a dream maneuvering in the harbor and at slow speed or blasting through 4-6 footers but I often thought less engine weight and smaller propping would have been better.
 
"Mine is a Carver with straight drives not a SR. at 38000# actual weight I often thought the engines with 33" inch props and 2.9 gears were too big and heavy for the boat. It was a dream maneuvering in the harbor and at slow speed or blasting through 4-6 footers but I often thought less engine weight and smaller propping would have been better."

Ah - sounds like an aft cabin maybe at 44 feet or more - a lot of boat and weight but larger engines as well.
Slower shafts and larger wheels sounds great as long as you do not have to be concerned about the draft or size of shafts - clean water for props is good stuff.
The Sea Ray had prop pockets which were pretty deep and props in the 26" size I think - not sure of pitch. When he slowed down and ran with us at about 17-18 knots he did much better on fuel than at his 'normal' 19 or 20 knots. They were the 450 metric hp versions in his boat and he ran with not too much bow lift either as I remember - the express bridge was well forward with weight and seating well towards the bow. The genset and a huge isolation transformer were carried about as close to the stern as one could get them - access was painful. Certainly the prop size and the pockets affected small maneuvering but overall the boat ran well at speed and could easily be docked with just a tad of throttle. I did drive it more than once when we switched to check out the others boat.
I did have a terrible time helping fix those banjo fittings on the bottom of those turbo's - was an issue for better part of a year or more just enough to be annoying.
 
exactly ACMY at 44' no pockets. draft was an issue in some places but not many. It only kept me out of a few places at 4.5'

When running fast I estimated I was using 600 HP out of 840 available so lighter engines might have been better. At the time it was built 1996, the B block wasn't really up to 300 HP per but I often thought that the less weight of a b and smaller everything would have reduced needed HP enough to compensate
 
"SURVEY SAYS?"

I like the smaller one I have it works well for me. (Sea Dog brand)
 
If you are talking about the tee handle ones get the smaller one. I have both and the legs on the larger one will not fit between the impeller and the pump housing. If you are looking at the one with the center nut compared to the smaller tee handle one. The tee handle one will work with the pump removed. The one with the center nut can change the impeller with the pump in place but it is not easy.
 
The best impeller puller I ever found was a Hank. I call on the phone and say Hank, pull the impeller and it comes right out.
 
"When running fast I estimated I was using 600 HP out of 840 available so lighter engines might have been better. At the time "it was built 1996, the B block wasn't really up to 300 HP per but I often thought that the less weight of a b and smaller everything would have reduced needed HP enough to compensate
Bruce"

Hello Bruce - IMHO the Cummins C engines are the best fit for your application as they are seen as a very robust engine widely used in bus and land application for longer terms and heavier loads. With you utilizing less than 40hp/liter and those engines having a great torque curve and almost none of the issues of the 6B's they are a great choice (and cyl liners). Your boat is a heavy one with a thirsty hull and I doubt the 6b's would be up to the task unless you propped them way down and avoided any cruising speeds above utilizing about 180 hp each (360 total) no matter what their ultimate rating is.
The weight savings of the 6b's over yours is just not significant given the total boats weight or the engine weights location given your boats overall statistics.
 
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