Port engine trim up - not functioning properly

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Split Decision

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exMember
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Apr 26, 2007
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26024
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This past Saturday I was idling up onto our local sandbar and as always I trim both drives up to give me some clearance from the props to the sand for when some boat wakes from time to time rock us a bit.

Anyways, I heard my starboard drive trim operate but didn't hear the port outdrive trim. Back at the dock I pulled engine hatch up and pushed the port engines trim up and down. The port engine trim down position seems fine, but when you hit the port engine up position all you get is a "click" sound. The starboard engine trim up/down works fine.

Is their a solenoid or something on the port up trim that may be defective?

Anybody have any thoughts how I should proceed to try and determine what the problem is? Our marina is backed up with work orders for about three weeks.

Engines are 5.7 litre GSI with Volvo Penta duoprop outdrives.

Thanks,
Mike.
 
I'm not familiar with Volvo, but the MerCruiser and the OMC Outboard systems that I AM familiar with use two relays. Each relay has a Normally OPEN (NO) and a Normally CLOSED (NC) set of contacts. If you don't push the Trim/Tilt switch, both relays are sitting on NC. When you pick a direction (Up or Down), power goes to one relay and that one's NO contacts CLOSE. Because the other relay is already NC, there's a circuit to the motor and it runs in one direction. Release and it stops. Now push the switch in the opposite direction. The OTHER relay's NO contacts CLOSE. Because the opposite relay is still NC, there's a circuit to the motor. The difference is that this arrangement allows the current polarity to reverse, which allows the motor to run in the direction you need. This means that BOTH relays always have to be GOOD. If NO won't CLOSE, or the NC contacts don't make up, then the motor won't run in that direction. You could swap relays with the other engine and see if the problem clears.
There's also probably a Trim Limit Switch or Sender. On MerC, the UP won't work if that switch is OPEN. The "Trail" switch bypasses it to get a higher lift (Tilt) than what Max Trim Up would be. I don't know how Volvo addresses this, but there could be a Limit Switch problem also, or instead of a Relay problem.
 
Check the 50 amp breaker on the back of the engine near the distributor. I have had this issue before with my volvos, same set-up as yours.
 
I was thinking like JD. Do you have a 'TRAILER' button? Does it bring the drive up?
 
No "trailer button" that I am aware of. If I want to raise drives completely up I use the trim switch that is located on each engines throttle handle. I do trim the drives completely up sometimes so that I can run my fingers around the duoprops from my swim platform.

I was thinking since I do get a click from pushing the port engine "up" trim that the switch itself inside the throttle handle is ok. Especially when hitting the port engine "down" seems to work fine.

Thanks for the replies so far guys. I'd like to arm myself with enough trouble shooting information that I could resolve this trim problem this weekend.

Mike
 
When I had my Volvo Penta, there was a solenoid for up and one for down. Easy to check as they are interchangeable.
 
Thinking back over this,

1. Figure out which solenoid clicks but the drive doesn't move

2. Either:
a. The NO contacts on that one are not making up, or...
b. The NC contacts on the OTHER solenoid are not made up

3. Or, of course, wiring or connection problem but assuming that's OK...

4. Switch the two solenoids on the engine that only moved one way... problem should move to the opposite direction, or...

5. Substitute one relay from the moving engine for either on the non-moving one.
a. If the non-moving now moves, you just pulled the defective relay
b. If it doesn't then the other relay on the non-moving engine is the defective one, unless...

6. BOTH relays on the non-moving engine are defective. Slim chance...
 
Have someone 'trim up' as you're down by the trim solenoids. You can hear or even feel which solenoid is just clicking. The click means the primary side of the solenoid (with the electro-magnet) is working. The large wires carrying more current requires a good connection. Loosen and wire brush the connections. coat the connections with di-electric silicone grease to protect them. The last possibility is the solenoids are bad... Don't forget to disconnect the battery grounds at the battery.
 
When we arrived back to our boat this past Friday evening I noticed my cockpit carpeting was moved and engine battery switches were on.

Thought to myself, hmmm, bet the marina did send someone over to look at my port drive "up" issue. Walked over to helm and gave the port drive up switch a push. It now works up and down.

I wanted to follow up with you guys who where good enough to offer your toubleshooting advice so I drove over to marina Saturday morning to inquire what they found and what they did. The mechanics were not in and the office gal couldn't find the work order to see what was documented on it.

I will post back what the fault was as soon as I find out.

Thanks,
Mike.
 
Those "pixies" are at times quite unpredictable. Sometimes when you think they will get to a problem in a day or two its weeks, other times when you get the impression it will be a couple weeks it's within the week.

I too, what to know what the pixies did.

Might not know until this weekend, but I'll follow up.

Mike.
 
Received the bill from my marina by mail for repair to my port side engine trim up not working.

The bill stated the problem was "clean terminals on relays". They only charged 1/2 (0.5) hour labour total which considering it's almost a 5 minute golf cart ride from their office to my boat well one way that is a very reasonable boat repair charge.

Thank you guys for the excellent troubleshooting advice above. Hopefully someone else may benefit from your suggestions as well.

Mike.
 
Very nice Pixies indeed! Many would charge 1.0 minimum and 0.5 travel. You keep your boat in a good place. Glad it worked out.
 
I had a similar problem this summer. I have a BIII, Crownline 242. After trouble shooting the entire circuit with no luck, I noticed that the gauge of the wire inside the shift lever was different than the gauge that was in the back of the boat. There is a connector about 18 inches away from the shift lever. I figured it must be corroded. I noticed dried salt in the shift lever so I figured the salt water just followed the line down.

In order to access the connector, it would require taking out all of the panels from the aft cabin and then dig through a bunch of foam. I got a little lazy and had the yard take look. The yard did not believe me when I told them the problem was the connector, so they proceeded to troubleshoot the entire circuit and reached the same conclusion…actually the yard did not even know that a connector existed until I told them about it.

Anyway, 4 hours of labor and $400 later, it was fixed…and I know it took them an entire day to work it out.
 
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