Possibly the best battery condition monitor?

Billylll

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I recently purchased a BalMar smartgauge battery condition meter. The unit requires no shunt and can monitor 2 battery banks. In my case it will be my starting battery and the house bank. I have read an independent test done on the unit and it looks promising. I currently use a Link2000 which I thought was the best thing since sliced bread however I have seen over time it's getting less accurate and is almost constantly need to be re-synced. This products negative is it won't show you the amps you are drawing, this is no big deal to me because I have ammeters on my BlueSea DC panels already. It will control relays so it could turn your charging source on and off with the correct rated solenoid.
Here is an independent review this guy is known for his honesty.
A bit about the installation you need to run a 14 gauge negative wire to a common ground on the house bank battery terminal, the house bank positive wire connects to the + terminal using a 14 gauge wire and a 3 amp fuse, the starting battery gets a 14 gauge wire and a 3 amp fuse at it terminal. It couldn't be easier to install in my opinion.
I'll report back in about a month after installing it and cycling my new house bank and starting battieries in the Gulfstar.
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/smart_gauge

Bill
 
I thought I would add that I believe BalMar products are very high quality. I intend to replace my alternator systems with their higher amperage alternator systems using the 3 stage controllers and alternator temperature probes.
Bill
 
That guy writes a great article on the complexity of battery monitoring. I guess with micro controllers you can record actual discharge curve and compare later curves to predict the rate of decline but it probably will always be a guess because so much goes on inside a battery to alter its condition and therefore the measured results at any time.
This may be something great but it is just as likely to be a micrometer on the end of a resting voltage yardstick.
 
The testing he did was fairly good, I agree with him when it comes to Ah or Coulomb counters being hard to keep accurate over time.
I have found that to be a problem with my Link2000 controller. All I can do is try this on my new house bank in the trawler and see how it measures up over time, a long time..
I already received the BalMar smartgauge last week.
Bill
 
I have a Blue Seas voltmeter with a 3 way toggle switch.

Never once left me with my pants down.

The ultimate in K I S S principle !

RWS
 
Strictly measuring voltage is fine RWS but it only tells you the condition of the charge state at that point.
It really won't give you an idea of the battery condition as far as reserve AH's or how do I put this?
It doesn't collect the data to store it and give you an idea how long the battery or mainly a house battery bank will last before it's 50% discharged.
This device is as "KISS" as installing a analog or digital battery meter to install.
Bill
 
Bruce I don't like pushing websites but this guy has some really interesting articles that dispel many traditional thoughts or myths when it comes to marine systems.
He backs every article up with comprehensive testing. This guy is really on the ball I found him by accident and have no interest in his operations.
I don't know him but wish I did.
Bill
 
That monitor does sound very good in spite of the lack of amp-draw display, but I believe I read it must be powered full time, bypassing any battery switches.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Sandy

That monitor does sound very good in spite of the lack of amp-draw display, but I believe I read it must be powered full time, bypassing any battery switches.




Yes but what do you think AH meters need/?
They need to be left on as well or they won't be accurate.
Bill
 
After reading that article, Bill, I almost want to rip out my Link Pro and go with the BalMar. Too late for my upcoming trip but I bet once I see it on your -new- (fingers crossed) boat I'll probably switch to it.
 
Glancing through the article very quickly, it looks like it incorporates some of the methodology of the BMK that Magnum has for their integrated inverter systems. While the Magnum uses a shunt to measure amps, it also is hooked up similar to this unit, and pays attention to voltage draws and charging. You have to put a full charge on the batteries on a regular basis and each time it remeasures charge efficiency and what is involved in bringing the bank to full charge. This then resets the SOC. You notice that the amount of amps put back into the battery will be more than that taken out, due to charge efficiency and the phenomena that different loads have as he discusses early in the article. I found my SOC remained pretty accurate as my bank aged, (or a new bank got broken in) as cross referenced by using a hydrometer.

Since this Balmar unit doesn't measure amps, it is pretty easy to set up, and much less expensive than if you bought the Magnum and required remote independent of the inverter. Again I may have skipped it, but I know the Victron unit does at least use the Peukert formula in it algorithm.
 
quote:

Originally posted by caltexfla

Glancing through the article very quickly, it looks like it incorporates some of the methodology of the BMK that Magnum has for their integrated inverter systems. While the Magnum uses a shunt to measure amps, it also is hooked up similar to this unit, and pays attention to voltage draws and charging. You have to put a full charge on the batteries on a regular basis and each time it remeasures charge efficiency and what is involved in bringing the bank to full charge. This then resets the SOC. You notice that the amount of amps put back into the battery will be more than that taken out, due to charge efficiency and the phenomena that different loads have as he discusses early in the article. I found my SOC remained pretty accurate as my bank aged, (or a new bank got broken in) as cross referenced by using a hydrometer.

Since this Balmar unit doesn't measure amps, it is pretty easy to set up, and much less expensive than if you bought the Magnum and required remote independent of the inverter. Again I may have skipped it, but I know the Victron unit does at least use the Peukert formula in it algorithm.




George I don't believe this unit is a charge controller. I guess you could control a charger through the external signals using a low current relay with high current contacts.
I do believe that it has a sophisticated chipset which by setting the battery type I would assume automatically sets Peukert formula as part of it's algorithm and therefore does come into it's final results for SOC. I could be wrong but I have the unit already. If does as advertised it will make me a happy camper.
Bill
 
quote:

Originally posted by caltexfla

Glancing through the article very quickly, it looks like it incorporates some of the methodology of the BMK that Magnum has for their integrated inverter systems. While the Magnum uses a shunt to measure amps, it also is hooked up similar to this unit, and pays attention to voltage draws and charging. You have to put a full charge on the batteries on a regular basis and each time it remeasures charge efficiency and what is involved in bringing the bank to full charge. This then resets the SOC. You notice that the amount of amps put back into the battery will be more than that taken out, due to charge efficiency and the phenomena that different loads have as he discusses early in the article. I found my SOC remained pretty accurate as my bank aged, (or a new bank got broken in) as cross referenced by using a hydrometer.

Since this Balmar unit doesn't measure amps, it is pretty easy to set up, and much less expensive than if you bought the Magnum and required remote independent of the inverter. Again I may have skipped it, but I know the Victron unit does at least use the Peukert formula in it algorithm.




George I don't believe this unit is a charge controller. I guess you could control a charger through the external signals using a low current relay with high current contacts.
I do believe that it has a sophisticated chipset which by setting the battery type I would assume automatically sets Peukert formula as part of it's algorithm and therefore does come into it's final results for SOC. I could be wrong but I have the unit already. If does as advertised it will make me a happy camper.
Bill
 
I apologize if I gave the impression it was, I don't think that at all. Measuring what happens in the charge cycle, however is important. Most of us know, the charge characteristics of a battery change as it ages.
 
quote:

Originally posted by caltexfla

I apologize if I gave the impression it was, I don't think that at all. Measuring what happens in the charge cycle, however is important. Most of us know, the charge characteristics of a battery change as it ages.




I understand George, I'll let eveyone know how it performs once I own the boat!
Bill
 
From the guy that v=created the unit and also supported the Link2000R.
Chris_W_Gibson Chris_W_Gibson is offline
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Default Another view - VERY long.
You may recognise my name.

James Hortop alerted me to this thread and forum. I felt it fair to present some further information from my side which may help clear a few things up.

This won't come in any particular order of importance.

I do not discount the use of amp hours counters. I use one on my own boat. Whilst I (being of a technical bent) can understand it and get the best from it, my girlfriend and children cannot. To them, the device is useless, they simply cannot understand what it is telling them, let alone how to correctly set the device up. They would be left completely in the dark (perhaps literally) if the device ran out of sync.

I am not new to this business. I ran (in fact owned) the UK technical service centre, and the central technical point for all of Europe, for Heart Interface and Cruising Equipment (manufacturers of the Link 10) for over 10 years and spent a great proportion of such time giving technical support to owners of the entire range of Cruising Equipment amp hours counters, from the original amp hour plus right through to the Link 2000R.

It became very apparent, very early on, that for many people these devices were of no use whatsoever. The problem of them running out of sync with the batteries is not a *theoretical* problem that may *sometimes* happen, it is a very *real* problem that causes *huge* problems for a *huge* number of users.

During my time giving this technical support I looked very carefully into the reasons for the amp hours counters running adrift.

The reasons are many, far more numerous than "not setting the unit up correctly initially" or "not fully recharging". Here I list just a few of them.....

Peukert's effect makes a huge difference to the results these devices give. Peukert's exponent changes throughout the life of a battery. Initially, during the first few tens of cycles it decreases. It then stabilises for a few tens of cycles, it then starts to increase. So unless tests are done regularly to calculate the new Peukert's exponent, the amp hours counter will begin to run adrift.

As batteries age, their capacity falls. Amp hours counters cannot track this. So after 3 years of use, your amp hours counter may tell you that you are regularly discharging your 600 amp hour battery to 300 amp hours (50% capacity - the sensible limit). Whereas in actual fact you are discharging your (now tired) 400 amp hour battery bank to 25% thus greatly accelerating it's eventual death. The non technical person will be clueless about this problem.

Charge efficiency is apparently a simple concept: amps out/amp in *100. In practice this doesn't work. The results are different for the same battery depending upon the discharge current and/or the charge current. Different charge efficiencies can be got from the same battery simply by varying the charge or discharge current.

As the charge efficiency is used by the amp hours counter to calculate recharge profiles, you will see that the *ideal* recharge count-up will be at varying rates depending upon the discharge rate. In pratice it will be the same for each cycle and therefore incorrect.

There is an effect similar to Peukert's effect during charging (charging at 40 amps does *not* return twice as much energy as charging at 20 amps - it returns less). Unfortunately, unlike Peukert's effect, there is no way to calculate it's effects. The effects can be measured, but they cannot be predicted.

These are just a few of the many problems that cause amp hours counters to run adrift.

It really is a *major* problem for *many* people.

Technically minded people are probably happier with, and more suited to using, a fully fledged, Peukert corrected amp hours counter such as the later Link 2000 (early units were not Peukert corrected) or a Link 10, DCM600 E-501 etc etc etc.

Non technically minded people have a *very* low success rate with these devices.

Fleet vehicle users have tried amp hours counters but the learning curve is simply too long and complicated for them. The problem of running out of sync unless *everyone* involved in the installation *and* use of the equipment is educated in it's use makes them no use whatsoever to these people. Likewise hire boats.

SmartGauge is aimed at these people. It is not aimed at technically minded people who, as I say above, would be much better off with an amp hours counter.

However not everyone is technically minded, not everyone has the time to learn the intricacies of an amp hours counter and not everyone can be bothered. And those that are not, may still want to know "how much power is left". For these people, SmartGauge is ideal. These are the people SmartGauge is aimed at.

And, as testified by James Hortop, the device does indeed work. And it cannot run out of sync, which is the main problem the device was designed to avoid.

As the device is aimed at people who either do not have the technical knowledge required for efficient use of an amp hours counter, or perhaps people who simply can't be bothered with all that, it was decided that simplicity and speed of installation was also an important factor. Hence the shuntless design.

The people SmartGauge is aimed at are not interested in "what is my charge rate?" or "how much power does my fridge use?". Just like I am not interested in how fast a petrol pump fills my car up. They and I are interested in "how much is left?"

SmartGauge is not a "fancy voltmeter". It is a battery state of charge meter.

SmartGauge does and will display the charge status during charging. It cannot do this to better than a guaranteed accuracy of 10%. We state this on the website because we are honest. In practice 2 or 3% is usually the achieved figure but we cannot guarantee this. Amp hours counters can be out by *much* more than this during recharge. Several hundred amp hours adrift after just 5 or 6 cycles is *not* exaggerated speculation. It is fact. I have been involved in the supply, manufacture and design of amp hours counters for over 15 years, it is a *very* well known problem within the industry.

My own Link 2000R is setup perfectly yet during recharge it is not uncommon to see a recharge from, say, - 200 amp hours up to -30 amp hours, then the counter reset to zero because the Link has detected the charge parameters being met. This equates to an error at the end of the charge cycle of over 15%

Conversely I also regularly see the meter reach 0 amp hours yet still there is a quite heavy charge current flowing. This is the same error but in the opposite direction.

During cruising, or vehicle use, it is a very common situation for the batteries to not reach a fully charged state for, sometimes, weeks on end. When this happens, the amp hours counter can *easily* run adrift by twice the capacity of the battery bank in 3 weeks. Again, this is not speculation, this is the result of many years of involvement, design and tests with these types of units.

As to the matter of "value for money". Well again, that depends upon the user. If an amp hours counter simply does not work for a non technical user yet a SmartGauge does, then which represents the best value?

You have to remember that not everyone understands volts, amps, amp hours, Peukert, charge efficiency etc. And for those that don't, an amp hours counter will not do what they require of a battery monitor. i.e. it will not tell them the state of charge of their batteries.

Obviously I am not prepared to disclose how SmartGauge works. Anyone who asks me to do so is simply being totally unreasonable.

But to say that only voltage can be measured via 2 wires is *completely* incorrect.....

Pull a brief current pulse from the battery and measure the voltage drop, this will give an indication of internal resistance.

Present an AC voltage across the battery and measure the phase angle and amplitude of the resultant current. This will show the AC impedance of the battery.

Do the same thing with a wide variety of frequencies and analyse the results. This is know as AC impedance spectrography.

These are very well known methods of battery measurements. They all involve "2 wires". There are *many* more that can be made with 2 wires.

SmartGauge is brand new technology. And there is always severe resistance to anything that breaks new ground. Everyone we approach with the device has the same reservations..... "it can't work". The fact is it does work.

Merlin Equipment made the same comment initially "yea yea yea, two wires, won't work". After testing the unit for some considerable time John Hortop's (James' father) response to me was ".... and the SmartGauge, well, that's bloody brilliant"

The trade customers who have bought units have all been back and bought more. The few end users who have bought it have all reported that they are happy with the results.

SmartGauge was launched at the beginning of september so it is relatively new on the market. A very small number have been sold, roughly 160 units. This is in addition to the 48 units that remain in the field from the beta testers. None have reported that the device doesn't work or that there are any problems.

For clarification, SmartGauge is not aimed at technically minded people. They can get along quite happily with an amp hours counter. Even when the unit runs out of sync, an experienced user can usually know this from the voltage and current readings. A non technical user cannot.

Non technically minded people have a very low success rate with amp hours counters. This is a fact. It isn't speculation. SmartGauge addresses that issue.

Just because someone is not technically minded, does not mean that they are not entitled to know how much power they have left in their batteries. Just because someone owns a boat or RV, or drives an ambulance does not mean they will be technically minded.

If I didn't know there was a market for SmartGauge I would not have wasted my time and money developing it. I would have made yet another amp hours counter (I have designed 2 in the past) followed by hundeds of hours on the 'phone explaining why it has run out of sync.

Of course, the ideal solution, to suit everyone, would be an amp hours counter, using the SmartGauge algorithm to put right the deficiencies of the amp hours counter.

Now I wonder..........

As to comments regarding the website, if someone wishes to make *constructive* comments or correct any technical issues I will be more than happy to listen. To make comments such as "long winded diatribe" to me just sounds like a euphemism for "I couldn't understand it" or "I couldn't be bothered reading it" or perhaps "I have a hidden agenda for slandering this device". Of course, I may be wrong, it may simply be genuine suspicion due to the sheer number of useless equipment that is often peddled.

If that is the case, then I can understand some of the coments. However to state "is simply a fancy voltmeter" without any experience of the device is, I believe, rather unfair. Not to mention, technically, totally incorrect.

As far as I am aware, there is no information on the website that is technically incorrect. Of course I am human and may have made mistakes. But I certainly would not tell lies about matters technical. My wages depend upon my technical knowledge. If I was seen to be incorrect in such matters, I would soon have problems with some of my large commercial customers.

As to alternator controllers not being required on modern installations, if you read the entire article, and think carefully about it, you will see that what is said is, indeed, correct. As James Hortop testifies.

And I agree that I should change the sentence "split charge diodes do not work" to "split charge diodes do not work properly". Because they don't.

As I said, constructive criticism is more than welcome. I would greatly appreciate it.

Thank you for taking the time to read this.

Chris Gibson
 
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