Preventing Rust on new Engines.
- Thread starter jmas
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Capt. Bill1
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Boeshield.
But no matter what you put on, if it's on areas of the motor that get very hot it's more than likely going to melt away. The best thing you can do is keep the engines clean, dry and stay on top of any leaks that may develop. Also prime and paint any spots that develop corrosion as soon as you see them.
But no matter what you put on, if it's on areas of the motor that get very hot it's more than likely going to melt away. The best thing you can do is keep the engines clean, dry and stay on top of any leaks that may develop. Also prime and paint any spots that develop corrosion as soon as you see them.
What Bill said and I cant stress important it is to identify and fix any leaks ASAP. Corrosion pro works as well. Those hard to reach places need extra attention and a fresh water wash-down occasionally with good dry our helps too is you have good opening hatches.
BlueYonder
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Block heaters or something like this work well to keep condensation down to a minimum.
http://www.xtremeheaters.com/choose-engine-heater
An anti corrosion spray (I use Corrosion X) works well on the parts that don't get really hot. A good coating of anti corrosion spray on the engine mounts will keep them looking new.
http://www.xtremeheaters.com/choose-engine-heater
An anti corrosion spray (I use Corrosion X) works well on the parts that don't get really hot. A good coating of anti corrosion spray on the engine mounts will keep them looking new.
Joe,
http://www.wolverineheater.com/
Going on 8 years with out an issue . They are 110 volts. current draw i think is 1.5 amps each . Website explains install and locations . Pretty simple .
Rob
http://www.wolverineheater.com/
Going on 8 years with out an issue . They are 110 volts. current draw i think is 1.5 amps each . Website explains install and locations . Pretty simple .
Rob
Is the motor in or out of the boat?
I got hard two part epoxy bottom paint with teflon. I guess Interlux was discontinuing it so it was cheap. I got 6 gallons of the stuff and use it on everything besides the bottom. Stuff is tuff, a little bit non stick and brilliant white. Painted my bilge and engine(and exhaust) and outdrive. Only the area around the exhaust ports on the heads turned a little yellowish brown. been over 5 years.
I got hard two part epoxy bottom paint with teflon. I guess Interlux was discontinuing it so it was cheap. I got 6 gallons of the stuff and use it on everything besides the bottom. Stuff is tuff, a little bit non stick and brilliant white. Painted my bilge and engine(and exhaust) and outdrive. Only the area around the exhaust ports on the heads turned a little yellowish brown. been over 5 years.
Wolverine pad heaters have worked great for us over many boats and many years now.
We use the 250 Watt heaters mounted on the oil pans and they work great - here is a picture of one of them installed just to the left of the engine mount and just below the left side oil filter - it is orange in color.
Hope this helps
We use the 250 Watt heaters mounted on the oil pans and they work great - here is a picture of one of them installed just to the left of the engine mount and just below the left side oil filter - it is orange in color.
Hope this helps
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A good coating of CRC at layup and bilge heaters work well for me.
New engine going into Boat next week. All parts have been painted with Rustolium Ceramic Paint. Anti Corosion spray and good ventilation sounds like the way to go.
No need to heat engine oil here in FL. Engines start up fine, RUST has been my problem.
Thanks for all sugestions.
Capt. Bill1
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Keeping an engine warm while at rest is about more than ease of start ups. It can keep out moisture that can get into any cylinders that have there exhaust valves open while at rest via the exhaust system.
Ceramic paint, huh! Sounds kinds gimicky to me. In order to get ceracics to fuse, it has to get to a temp approx 1600*. Probably the best paint job would be power coating. My understanding is powered paint pigment is sprayed on positively charged surface. Then it's baked...at a much lower temp, to melt the paint onto the surface...Pretty much like they used to do on industrial baked enamel.
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quote:
Originally posted by walterv
Don't use CRC if your motors are painted white, I did this year and now I have tan spots
Which CRC did you use? There are many different types. I used the CRC656 and I will check my motors but I didn't recall seeing brown spots and my motors are white.
I am sure the brown will burn off as soon as it get's hot.
Boats with the engines under cockpit hatchers are the worst. Keeping a good seal on the hatches is easier said than done.. Check the seals and drains but IMO they require extra attention to rinsing and drying that engines in nice dry below cabin ERs don't.