Ghost has you on the right track. My puller is a big Walker brand and still required that it be tightened way harder than I would have guessed. Maybe you need to put your back into it; tighten, tighten -----. And then Bang! It gives. (Maybe)
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Prop puller--which is the best to own?
- Thread starter Wintersux
- Start date
Use a short length of pipe or rod to get past the rudder and allow you to use a hammer or maul to give that ringing impact to the prop nut or center of the shaft. Wood doesn't have the same effect.
Do you have the Algonac set up for maximum leverage?
Michigan Wheel recommends against use of heat: http://www.miwheel.com/propellers/resources/#33693
Do you have the Algonac set up for maximum leverage?
Michigan Wheel recommends against use of heat: http://www.miwheel.com/propellers/resources/#33693
I've seen the dangerously misinformed try to use wood to soften the blow so as to not "beat" the shaft/prop. That's actually the best way to actually bend something and is done by those who think they know what experts are. You have a taper that by design creates a greater surface area so the microscopic pores of the metal can actually interlock. With a fully functioning taper you don't actually need a shaft key way or for that matter even the shaft nuts. It's just like the chuck on a drill press, nothing but the taper holds it on. Everything else is backup.
So, as I said, it's normal that a prop does not come off with just the puller tension. If it does, what it really means is that your taper is not doing the job it should and that you will need to do some fitting. The goal is not to beat the prop off. The goal is to create a ringing shock wave that will cause the metal to vibrate and allow those intertwined metal pores to move. The puller simply creates pressure so once those intertwined metal surfaces start to move, that they don't settle back together. Right at that moment, the prop pops.
So, as I said, it's normal that a prop does not come off with just the puller tension. If it does, what it really means is that your taper is not doing the job it should and that you will need to do some fitting. The goal is not to beat the prop off. The goal is to create a ringing shock wave that will cause the metal to vibrate and allow those intertwined metal pores to move. The puller simply creates pressure so once those intertwined metal surfaces start to move, that they don't settle back together. Right at that moment, the prop pops.
I did get them off last night. I tried the hammer but did not want to hit it too hard. So, I got out the electric heat gun and gently heated the hub and it popped right off. The second one very quickly came off with a gentle heat to the hub on it.
Thanks for the help. This was a new experience for me.
Thanks for the help. This was a new experience for me.