Re-carpeting

J

jaj63207

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Dec 2, 2006
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24411
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I need to re-carpet my 36' Carver aft cabin. The one one quote I have is around $900 for labor. Has any one taken on a similar project and how big a job is it? Did you use contact cement or staples. I will need to to trim hatches to wrap the edges. I kinda hate to get involved, but $900, while it seems reasonable, is a lot of money to me. Any advise would be appreciated. I plan on using a berber carpet.

Thanks,
Jimmy
 
That is a very good price. A variety of fastening is used by Carver staples, tac strips and glue
 
I have to get back into installing carpet. $900...wow, I was lucky to make that in a week back when I installed carpet. Typically, carpet is glued down in a boat with outdoor carpet adhesive that is troweled on. I would avoid using tack strips as they are wood and can mildew and rot and you will need underpad for a tack strip installation, which I would avoid for a boat. You can cut around hatches and staple the edges with stainless or monel staples. If there are trim moldings around the hatches, you probably don't need the staples.
 
Replaced stapled carpet in boat 2 seasons ago. Only used staples when wrapping hatches & hatch openings. Some were used on the very small amount of vertical surfaces. Tackless was used every where else. BTW, took me two full days to remove the 10,000 staples. Slt exaggeration but not much.
 
Same boat here Jimmy. You can do it.
Glue is best. I did not wrap the hatches as we have a throw rug in the salon. I cut the carpet slightly larger than the area of interest, and worked it across the cabin, trimming and gluing as I went until it covered everything. Then went back and cut the hatches where needed. Had my kids take out the staples - that was a tedious job for which I had no interest!
Don
 
I have a 32' Silverton and just got a price two prices for the cockpit area and swim platform.
One was $1500 and the other was $500. Numbers appear to be all over the map.
 
I had by 36 mariner done by a freind ( professional installer ) took him all day.. contact cement in forward cabin glue in main salon ( this turned out to be a mistake ) the main salon was stappled by the factory.. this would have been a better solution due to hatch covers. If you are going to glue use contact cement not mastek.. Also.. Use a shag type carpet vs. a berber. I used the berber and it already looks older in the salon. I am going to tear it up and put wood down in with a runner down the middle.
 
Thanks for all the input. I still haven't decided on berber or plush. I did find out that if you don't roll carpet around the edge of the hatches to to use seam sealer on the backing side of the edges. It keeps the edges from fraying by securing the loops to the backing. I probably won't wrap the edges because I would have to extend the lip on which the hatches rest. Got to get the Admiral to go carpet shopping now. I am leaning stongly toward doing the install myself.

Just to be sure, lay the entire saloon and then make cuts for the hatches?

Thanks,
Jimmy
 
Do not leave raw edges of carpet exposed, they will eventually start to unravel. You can use the seam sealer, but if its in a high traffic area, it may still unravel. The multi purpose outdoor carpet adhesive usually works great for all flat areas. If you have a difficult spot or a small area that may not hold, you can go to the contact cement. As far as a cut pile vs. berber, its really the fiber that makes the difference. The strongest fiber by far is 100% nylon. Loop pile is a stronger construction then cut pile, that's why you usually see loop pile carpet in commercial areas. If you can find a nylon berber, that will hold up the best. Olefin fiber mats down terribly. For covering hatches, try and find an edge molding that looks good or if there is space, wrap the carpet around the hatch and staple it on the bottom of the hatch. Another method is called turn and tack. You cut the carpet about 1" bigger all around the hatch and turn that 1" under the carpet and staple around the perimeter of the hatch. Try and separate the tufts of the carpet when stapling so you don't see the staples. This will prevent seeing a raw edge and unraveling. I've done this in high traffic areas in homes and the carpet never unravels. I just remembered, you can find vinyl edging that is used to finish the edge of a glued down carpet. Next time you go to Macy's, look at where the carpet meets the tile and you will see a vinyl edging. You can heat and bend this stuff easily. Use contact cement to glue it around the hatch and then cut the carpet to the edging. Here's a link to show you what I'm talking about: http://www.burkeflooring.com/mouldings/index.html
 
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