Replace shaft packing

quote:
Originally posted by Gregory S

I was breaking the corkscrews by using them like a pick. Once I learned to screw the tool into the packing, they wok well. If the packing is dry, spray some penetrating oil in to soften the packing. Good warning about PB Blaster and engine/trans seals in the link above.

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The problem I had was the threads kept stripping between the corkscrew and the flexible shaft. The corkscrew was seated properly in the flax packing but the shaft pulled right out. I ended up using needle nose pliers and whatever else I could find to grab the corkscrew and yank the packing out.

Good tip on the penetrating oil. That might have made my job a lot easier. Plus, now that I'm running GFO I'm sure it will be a lot easier to remove than flax when/if the time comes to replace it.
 
Years ago I contacted GFO's guy in St. Louis and he discouraged the use of oil as a cleaner. Apparantly it does not mix well w/ their product.
 
You don't need any oil to loosen GFO. It goes in and comes out easy because if the graphite it contains.
 
quote:
Originally posted by KiDa

Should I consider GFO for Rudders ?

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Not really needed since you don't have the rpms on the rudders.
 
I wouldn't waste GFO on rudders for the reason stTed by Golfman. Plus you can really tighten the rudder stuffing boxes down. They don't need to leak to cool a shaft.
 
We tried using GFO on 1 3/4 shafts with new glands from Algonquin. We could not get the recommended 3 levels into the gland, and even when very loose at idle tied to the dock they ran quite warm. Water cooled glands were the only option so we dumped it all and went with new dripless seals.
Now we use the GFO on the rudders and they have been just fine for 2 years. I have not had to tighten the glands at all. The mechanics that did the rudders had high praise for the packing we provided. I had quite a bit of 1/2 left over so we did the rudders with it.
 
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